Considerable rattan is still converted into the finished products by hand processes thru these laborious stages. Machines have been perfected which do practically the entire work. Particularly have the Germans brought this industry to a perfected state. Still in various sections of India, China, and the Philippines hand working of rattan is a thriving industry; an industry seemingly peculiarly adapted to the natives. The Philippine method of preparing the raw material varies somewhat from the Chinese method in that the natives do not bleach the rattan.
Reed may be procured in large or small hanks, in coils and in bundles, with the cost determined by weight. Schools generally will find it advantageous to buy it in small hanks, because of ease in handling and for economic reasons. Round reeds are shown three-fourths size in [Fig. 49], from No. 0 to and including No. 7, also winding, half-round and flat reeds. Winding reed is thin and slightly rounded on one surface. Half-round is as its name implies. Flat reed may be obtained in several widths from ¼ in. to ½ in., and if of good quality, one surface will show a decided bevel on the edges and appear much smoother than the other. Thus the right side is determined. There are many more sizes on the market than are indicated in [Fig. 49], but those shown should supply adequate, if not liberal variety for the ordinary school shop. The cost of reed cannot be given with any degree of accuracy at present. The price is determined by the quantity bought, and by the quality and size. Under normal commercial conditions round reeds will cost from 30 cents to $1 per pound for Nos. 1 to 8, and flat reed about 25 cents per pound.
FIG. 49. SPECIMENS OF REEDS, THREE-FOURTHS OF ACTUAL SIZE.
[[See note.]]
Bleaching.—Reed is procurable either bleached or unbleached. Ordinarily it is better to buy the bleached product. However, if the worker desires to bleach the reed, the method for small quantities is as follows: In a tub two-thirds full of water dissolve ten pounds of chloride of lime. Immerse the reed in this solution, weighting it down to insure covering it all, and let it stand about 4 hours. Remove it from the tub and wash thoroly in running water. The best way to do this is to lay the reed on an inclined surface and turn a forceful stream of water upon it. Chloride of lime has a bad effect upon the hands in that it makes them sore and tender, so care must be taken to properly rinse the reed. A little tallow rubbed over the hands will materially offset the tendency to tenderness, and generally keep them in good condition.
Staining.—Bleached reed takes stain much more readily and evenly than does the natural or unbleached. It may be stained any color with prepared stains, but ordinarily these leave the reed muddy in appearance due primarily to the difficulty in brushing in or wiping off the stain in the recesses which weaving leaves. Perhaps the best agent for coloring reed, and at least a very desirable one, especially after it has been woven, is naptha. The preparation of the stain and the process of coloring is as follows: Obtain the necessary amount and variety of colors ground in oil; mix the required colors with a little naptha; then to determine the shade of color test with a reed. Reed absorbs a given amount of color, therefore the shade will prove out practically the same when tested with a small quantity of naptha, as when tried out with a greater amount. Add the required amount of naptha to the solution, avoiding thinning too much; otherwise the color produced will be “sickly” in appearance. Five pounds of color to about 3 gallons of naptha will prove about the right ratio. For instance, to obtain a rich nut brown mix 1 pound of chrome yellow and 5 pounds of burnt umber with a small amount of naptha. Stir until the colors are liquid, then gradually add 4 gallons or so of naptha, and stir well. The intensity of the brown may be varied by using more or less chrome yellow.
Coiled hanks of reed may be immersed in the solution, immediately withdrawn and hung to drain dry above the receptacle, thus permitting surplus stain to drain back into it. The stain may be used repeatedly, and as it is very volatile it should be kept in a tightly corked red can when not in use. It is also highly inflammable, and should be used in a room in which there is free circulation of air. If colors have been mixed properly and thinned to the right consistency, the reed will dry rapidly and the color will be sharp and clear, free from muddy effects.
A woven article such as a basket or woven top footstool may be dipped, or the color poured over and allowed to drip dry. In some instances it is good policy to wipe surplus stain off lightly. Then, in the case of the footstool or similar project, if the worker so desires he may stain the wood a darker shade than the top with a prepared stain. Reed is very effective without stain; many of the stools shown herewith are left natural. Reed may be shellacked or varnished. Because of its porosity it soils very easily unless some finishing agent is used, and a good grade of elastic varnish is recommended as a finish, especially when the woven article is subject to severe use.
Other Materials.—Reed is not the only good medium adapted to weaving, either in correlation with wood or when used alone. On the stools illustrated several other materials have been used, as inner hickory bark and Indian splints and fiber. Binding cane, rope, and even willow may be utilized with success. Paper fiber was discussed in detail in [Chapter V] and needs no elaboration. [Fig. 60] shows a stool partly woven with this serviceable material. Sufficient to say that this fiber adapts itself admirably to almost all work where reed is commonly employed, and in many instances is, commercially, supplanting reed.