Cucumbers.—Sow in hills 4 ft. apart, using a liberal quantity of seed to each hill. When the plants come up, thin them to about six in the hill. When the plants begin to get rough leaves, pull out one or two more from each hill. Striped cucumber-beetles are sometimes very numerous, and in order to get a stand of plants it is necessary to go through the patch early every morning and sprinkle all the hills with air-slaked lime.
Egg-plants.—Toward the end of the month the plants growing in frames may be transplanted to their fruiting quarters. Seed may be sown outside after March 15; sooner if a warm and sheltered spot is selected.
Lettuce.—Sow in drills, and when the plants are large enough, thin to a foot apart. If transplanted at this season, they often go to seed.
Okra.—A sowing may be made now, but the main planting would best be deferred until after March 15. Sow in drills 3 ft. apart and thin the plants to 18 in. apart in the drills.
Peas.—Early varieties may be sown; it is now too late to sow tall-growing kinds.
Peppers.—Treat as advised for egg-plants.
Potatoes, Irish.—It is not too late to plant them, but the sooner they are planted the better. The crop planted in February should be harrowed as soon as the shoots begin to come up, and when the rows can be fairly seen, the cultivator must be set to work to keep down weeds and grass.
Squashes.—Plant seed in hills 6 ft. apart. The directions for planting melons may be followed. The same remarks apply to pumpkins and other vegetables of this kind.
Sweet-potatoes.—If slips or vines are at hand, they may be planted late in the month for the earliest tubers. The whole potatoes may be planted on a ridge to yield vines for later planting.
Strawberries.—The mulching of beds or rows should be no longer delayed, if clean and plentiful fruit is wanted.