Put a third part of the clearest and largest quinces into cold water over the fire, and coddle till tender, but not so as to be broken. Pare and cut them into quarters, taking out the core and the hard part, and then weigh them. The kernels must be taken out of the core, and tied up in a piece of muslin or gauze. The remaining two-thirds of the quinces must be grated, and the juice well squeezed out; and to a pound of the coddled quinces put a pint of juice; pound some cochineal, tie it up in muslin, and put it to the quinces and juice. They must be together all night; next day, put a pound of lump sugar to every pound of coddled quinces; let the sugar be broken into small lumps, and, with the quince juice, cochineal, and kernels, be boiled together until the quinces are clear and red, quite to the middle of each quarter. Take out the quarters, and boil the syrup for half an hour: put the quarters in, and let them boil gently for near an hour: then put them in a jar, boil the syrup till it is a thick jelly, and put it boiling hot over them.
Quinces, to preserve whole.
Pare the quinces very thin, put them into a well-tinned saucepan; fill it with hard water, lay the parings over the fruit, and keep them down; cover close that the steam may not escape, and set them over a slow fire to stew till tender and of a fine red colour. Take them carefully out, and weigh them to two pounds of quinces. Take two pounds and a half of double-refined sugar; put it into a preserving-pan, with one quart of water. Set it over a clear charcoal fire to boil; skim it clean, and, when it looks clear, put in the quinces. Boil them twelve minutes; take them off, and set them by for four hours to cool. Set them on the fire again, and let them boil three minutes; take them off, and let them stand two days; then boil them again ten minutes with the juice of two lemons, and set them by till cold. Put them into jars; pour on the syrup, cover them with brandy paper, tie them close with leather or bladder, and set them in a dry cool place.
Ramaquins. No. 1.
Take two ounces of Cheshire cheese grated, two ounces of white bread grated, two ounces of butter, half a pint of cream, and a little white pepper; boil all together; let it stand till cold; then take two yolks of eggs, beat the whole together, and put it into paper coffins. Twenty minutes will bake them.
Ramaquins. No. 2.
Take very nearly half a pound of Parmesan cheese, two ounces of mild Gloucester, four yolks of eggs, about six ounces of the best butter, and a good tea-cupful of cream. Beat the cheese first in a mortar; add by degrees the other ingredients, and in some measure be regulated by your taste, whether the proportion of any of them should be increased or diminished. A little while bakes them; the oven must not be too hot. They are baked in little paper cases, and served as hot as possible.
Ramaquins. No. 3.
Put to a little water just warm a little salt; stir in a quarter of a pound of butter; it must not boil. When well mixed, let it stand till cold: then stir in three eggs, one at a time, beating it well till it is quite smooth; then add three more eggs, beating it well, and half a pound of Parmesan cheese. Beat it well again, adding two yolks of eggs and a quarter of a pound of cold butter, and again beat it. Just before it is going into the oven, beat six eggs to a froth, and beat the whole together. Bake in paper moulds and in a quick oven. Serve as hot as possible.