On the 8th we set off for Aberystwith, and as the same horses were to carry us great part of the way we stopped to dine at Newtown, the road to which was extremely pleasing. Round hills covered to their summits with thick wood, and a verdant vale with pretty rivers and cattle grazing; it might have made a good study for quiet home views. We crossed a rapid river without a bridge.
Tuesday, 13th.—Left Aberystwith. We intended originally to have gone to Cardigan, Haverfordwest, etc., but the judges were upon that circuit, the roads bad, and the weather wretched. On that night we slept at Lampeter, close upon a rapid river in which Ld. H. fished. The eve. was tolerably fine. Drew and I walked about the environs.
14th.—It had rained all night, and the rivers were so swelled that they were deep to pass through; we went thro’ several and arrived at Carmarthen to dine. Very heavy rain the whole day. Poor little Charles was unwell, and we decided upon giving up Tenby.
On 15th heavy rain. After crossing ye Towy we looked back upon the town, which appeared prettily situated, but the weather was so bad it was impossible to see any object. The inhabitants were not surprised at the infamy of the weather; they said it was nothing unusual.
Finding no horses at Neath, we were compelled to remain. We walked to see the ruins of a small castle; the castle is not remarkable except for the beauty of its situation, and probably was raised by some of those Norman Barons who followed the fortunes of Fitzhamon, the conqueror of Glamorganshire. The inn is kept by an Italian, who, tho’ he left the happy climate in which he was born at nine years old, yet retains enough of national tournure to be known amongst a multitude of red-faced ale-drinkers as an alien. There is an archness, not to say roguery, which, such as it is, is a thousand times better than the stupidity and sulkiness and dubious honesty of the British countenance in common life.
On ye 17th we passed thro’ Margam, a possession of Mr. Talbot’s. There in his park are the beautiful remains of the Priory, about which I must look in Grove and Camden. He pulled down the mansion, but has built a magnificent greenhouse for the preservation of some orange-trees which belonged to William III.[2] The architecture is Grecian, which, close to a fine Gothic edifice, denotes more his adherence to the fashion of the times than his judgment in conceiving an appropriate decoration, as the two styles clash and diminish the beauty of both. Not that I am an enthusiastic admirer of Grecian architecture in any way but in a temple. There, indeed, the fine column, its slim shaft, rich architrave, cornice, and volute, surmounted with a graceful pediment, create a species of beauty which no other can. Indeed the circular arch, as in the Pont de Garde, where they form a bridge and aqueduct by several tiers one above the other, is very grand; otherwise, in vast works, I like the Gothic architecture, which, to use an affected phrase, is more impressive in lofty structures. Mr. Talbot married a cousin of Ld. H.’s, a daughter of Lord Ilchester’s.[3] It was a strange match, she about sixteen, he sixty; as yet, however, the disproportion has not affected their felicity. They live happily; a good deal in the country.
CARDIFF
Arrived at Cardiff after dark. Received a note from Ly. Plymouth[4] to tell me she was there; came the next morning, 18th, to breakfast. She is scampering upon a blood horse, followed by an attorney, over her son’s estates, settling his affairs. She complains of having found everybody formerly employed rogues, from whence one may presume she has fallen into the hands of some very great one. The Castle is very handsome; in the area Ld. Bute has built a modern castellated house, preserving in the centre one or two of the old towers.
19th.—Fortunately, a fine day. Dear Charles was so unwell that Drew wished him to have a day’s rest. Went over a very rough road to Tintern Abbey, a delicious ruin, situated upon the banks of the Wye. The church is almost entire; all the external walls are up and one of the side aisles; roof off, of course. The architecture is not so light and pleasing as Fountains Abbey, and of the monastery there are scarcely any remains. They show a tomb and effigy of a warrior whom they call Strongbow, Earl of Clare, who married Eva, the daughter of an Irish King, and became himself King of Leinster, and obtained for Henry II. the sovereignty of Ireland. In the eve. we had a charming walk upon the Wye and saw the castle, a fine ruin, celebrated for holding out against Cromwell, defended by Kemyss and Morgan. The former was cut to pieces in the inner court. Upon the Restoration one of the regicides was confined for 25 years in a chamber we saw. Southey wrote some pretty lines enough on him.
The party reached Ross on the 20th, having come through Chepstow and Monmouth.