| CHAPTER I. | |
| Introductory remarks—Correspondence | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| The Author’s departure from England to join Lady HesterStanhope—Voyage from Leghorn to Syria—The vessel plunderedby a Greek pirate—Return to Leghorn—Signor Girolamo—Letterfrom Lady Hester Stanhope to Mr. Webb, merchantat Leghorn—Lady Hester persecuted by the Emir Beshýr—Letterfrom Lady Hester to the Author, describing her positionin 1827—Her reliance on Providence—Second Letter to Mr.Webb—Her opinion of the Turks and Christians in Syria,and of the wild Arabs—Terror of the Franks in Syria, onoccasion of the battle of Navarino—They take refuge in LadyHester’s house—The Franks in Syria—Lady Hester’s letter tothe Author, urging him to rejoin her—Her advice—Her illness—TheAuthor sails for Syria | [30] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope’s reception of the Author—Her residencedescribed—Supposed reasons for her seclusion—Her extraordinaryinfluence over her dependants—Her violent temper—Herdress and appearance—Her influence in the country—AbdallahPasha guided by her—Her hostility towards the EmirBeshýr—Her defiance of his power—Her opinion of him—Flightof the Emir—His return—Death of the SheykhBeshýr | [67] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope’s hours of sleep—Her night-dress—Irksomenessof her service—Her bed-room—Her dislike toclocks—Her frequent use of the bell—Her aptitude in discoveringand frustrating plots—Blind obedience required byher—Anecdote of Lord S.—Lady Hester’s colloquial powers—Interminablelength of her conversations—Peculiar charmof them—Her religious opinions—Her belief in supernaturalagencies, and also of revealed religion—Certain doctrines ofthe sect of the Metoualis adopted by her | [102] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Buoyancy of Lady Hester Stanhope’s spirits—Death of MissWilliams—Mrs.——’s first visit to Lady Hester—The Authoris summoned to Damascus to attend Hassan Effendi: declinesgoing—Discussions between Lady Hester and Mrs. —— thereupon—LadyHester’s hatred of women—She sends her maidto revile Mrs. —— —The Author resolves to return to England—Alarmfrom soldiers on their march—Lady Hesterassists Abdallah Pasha in laying out his garden—Anecdotes ofthe first Lord Chatham—Fresh discourses about the Journeyto Damascus—Anecdotes of Mr. Pitt—His attachment to MissE.—His admiration of women—His indulgence towards otherpeople’s failings—Lady Hester and the fair Ellen—Strangehistory—Mr. Pitt’s attention to the comfort of his guests, andof his servants—Strange rise of one of them—Lady Hester’spathos—Paolo Perini’s expected post of artilleryman | [132] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope’s belief in the coming of a Messiah—Hertwo favourite mares—Lady Hester’s destiny influenced byBrothers, the fortune-teller, and by one Metta, a Syrian astrologer—Dukeof Reichstadt—Madame de Fériat—Story ofa Circassian slave—Rugged paths in Mount Lebanon—Anecdoteof Lord and Lady Bute—Anecdote of Mr. A., afterwardsLord S.—His father’s rise in the world—Lord Liverpool andthe order of merit—Intimidation exercised over the Author’shousehold by Lady Hester—Sundry difficulties arising therefrom—LadyHester’s opinion of X.’s mission—Mrs. Fry—LadyHester’s defiance of consular authority, and confidence inher own resources—Lunardi recommended as a servant—TheAuthor takes leave of Lady Hester—Conduct of the Franks atSayda—The Author sails for Cyprus—Is hospitably receivedby Mr. Hanah Farkouah, a Syrian, and by Signor BaldassareMattei—Marine villa at Larnaka—Mr. George Robinson—CaptainScott—Captain Dundas—Mr. Burns—The Authorsails for Europe | [170] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Reflections—Letter from Lady Hester to the Author askinghim to return—He revisits Syria—Changes which had takenplace in Beyrout—M. Jasper Chasseaud, American consul—Divineservice performed by the American missionaries—Letterfrom Lady Hester to the Author—Her continuedhostility to Mrs. —.—The Author takes his family to Sayda—Dressand demeanour of a lady of Sayda—The Author’sreception at Jôon—His family frightened by a deserter—Settlesat the convent of Mar Elias—Earthquake of January 1,1837 | [208] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| History of Raïs Hassan—His influence with Lady HesterStanhope—Number of persons in her service—Number ofanimals in her stables—Her manner of disposing of those whichwere superannuated—Her belief in Magic and Demonology—Examples—Anecdotesof Mr. Brummell—Mr. H.—The Ducde R********—Lord St. Asaph—Lady Hester’s strictnesswith menials—Justified by their misconduct and vices—Zeyneb,the black slave—Annoyances to which Lady Hesterwas subjected—Her service not tolerable for Europeans—Herreasons for using plain furniture—Her detestation ofsentimentality—Her general interference in every departmentof housewifery—Irregularities of the servants—Chastity, howdefined in Turkey—Lady H.’s measures for enforcing it—Heropinion of a French traveller, and of M. Lascaris | [231] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Queen Caroline’s trial—In what manner the first inquirywas suppressed—Lady Hester’s opinion of the P——ss ofW.—Young Austin—Lord Y.—P. of W.—His disgust at theslovenly habits of the P——ss.—Mrs. Fitzherbert—Mrs. Robinson—Mr.Canning—His person—His duplicity—anddeceit—His incapability of acting without guidance—Hisdisposition to babble—Lady Hester’s account of a great serpent—Mr.T. Moore—Lord Camelford—His liberality—Someanecdotes of that high-spirited nobleman—Arrival of MadameL.—She is seized with brain-fever, and dies raving mad—Visitof General Cass | [264] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Mrs. ——’s unwillingness to remain at Abra after Signora L.’sdeath—Beyrout fixed on as a residence—Lady H.’s account ofher debts—Necessities to which she was reduced—Anotherversion of her debts—Her extensive charities—Anecdote ofShaykh Omar-ed-dyn—Usurious discount on Lady H.’s billsof exchange—Loss from the fluctuating value of money inthe East—Estates supposed to have been bequeathed to LadyH.—Letters from Lady H. to M. Guys—She employs SirFrancis Burdett to inquire into the nature of the supposedbequests—Her opinion of Sir Francis—Letter to him—LadyH.’s diatribes on women—Mr. C.—Letter to Miss —— —Letterto the Author | [294] |
| Additional Notes | [337] |
ILLUSTRATIONS.
| VOL. I. | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope on Horseback | [Frontispiece.] |
| Ground plan of Lady Hester Stanhope’s Residence at Jôon | Page [74] |
| VOL. II. | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope in her Saloon | Frontispiece. |
| VOL. III. | |
| Distant View of Lady Hester Stanhope’s Residence on Mount Lebanon | Frontispiece. |
MEMOIRS
OF
LADY HESTER STANHOPE.
CHAPTER I.
Introductory remarks—Correspondence.
When Lady Hester Stanhope commenced her travels, in 1810, I accompanied her in the capacity of physician, until, after many wanderings in the East, I saw her finally settled on Mount Lebanon; but, being obliged to return to England for the purpose of taking my medical degrees at Oxford and London, after having passed seven years uninterruptedly in her service, I took leave of her. My successor, an English surgeon, disliking an Oriental life, left her, however, at the end of a year or two, and, at Lady Hester’s request, I again revisited Syria. But I found that her ladyship had in the mean while completely familiarized herself with the usages of the East, conducting her establishment entirely in the Turkish manner, and adopting even much of their medical empiricism. Under these circumstances, and at her own suggestion, I again bade her adieu, as I then believed, for the last time.
It was my intention to have cultivated my professional pursuits in London; there were great difficulties to be overcome—difficulties which have been ably depicted in the graphic pages of a recent publication. I did not wait, however, to try the issue of this slow career. Years of travel had inspired me with other views; and it was with much secret satisfaction that I resolved to avail myself of an opportunity which Lady Hester’s wishes again presented me, of once more traversing the mountain solitudes of Syria. It is not altogether an idle tribute of respect and admiration for her character to say, that the prospect of resuming my former position afforded me real pleasure. Long habit had reconciled me to her eccentricities, and even to her violent and overbearing temper. I had a profound sense of her exalted nature, and I felt that her oddities and peculiarities weighed only with those who knew her merely by common report, and that they in no respect affected her intrinsic worth in the estimation of such as were intimately acquainted with the sterling qualities of her heart and understanding.