[Signed] H. L. S.
This summons from Lady Hester Stanhope took me a little unexpectedly. I had not much faith in a story like that on which she built her hopes of paying her debts; for I did not think it likely that property left to her could have been purposely concealed from her knowledge, or would be withheld from her by her relations: but, notwithstanding this, I did not hesitate to write immediately, and say I would come as soon as I could arrange my private concerns, which period I limited to the following spring.
Accordingly, having engaged a governess for my daughter, to be at the same time a companion for my wife in the long evenings during my sittings with Lady Hester Stanhope, we left Nice on the 24th of May, 1837, for Marseilles; and agreed there for our passage on board of the Zoave, Captain Robert, a tight brigantine, paying, for the exclusive use of the cabin and our provisions, 1000 francs. We embarked on the 6th of June, being my fifty-fourth birthday, and, after a prosperous voyage, landed at Beyrout on the 1st of July, 1837.
The city of Beyrout had undergone great changes since the conquest of Syria by Ibrahim Pasha; not in the tortuosity of its streets, not in its broken pavement and the filthy entrances to its houses, but in the appearance of its population. Formerly, a few straggling Europeans, or Levantines in European dresses, were seen hanging about the doors of a warehouse or two in the Frank quarter; and occasionally a European woman, the wife of a consul or a merchant, would steal from one house to another, as if afraid, in her way, of insult from a fanatic Turk. Now, the bustle of a crowded mart was visible, and Europeans and their ladies walked about with a freedom which showed that a strong arm kept the haughty Mussulman under control. In 1831, the appearance of a French lady in the streets, wearing a green silk gown, was signalized as a feat of great hardihood; such an assumption of the colour peculiar to the prophet Mahomet’s descendants generally entailing vexations on the wearer: and a gentleman would never have dared to give his arm to a lady out of doors: but now, both the one and the other passed on without any loud remark, although, internally, the grave Mussulmans cherished a feeling of vengeance against those who so openly violated their religious and moral institutions. Emboldened by these changes, I led my family through the bazars, and showed them the busy Christians and Turks, working with their fingers and toes those beautiful silk stuffs, purses, cords, ribbons, &c., which form the admiration of all persons who visit the Levant.
We were lodged at the inn kept by Pareschivà, formerly a servant of Mr. John Maddox, an English gentleman, who had made a stay of two or three years in Syria. This Greek, by his cleanliness and attention, had secured, in an album which he kept for the purpose, so many certificates of good entertainment from travellers who had put up at his inn, that it would have required some courage to raise a dissenting voice: but he maintained, by a continuance of the same attentions to his guests, the reputation he had justly acquired.
The environs of Beyrout had always been studded with small villas and garden-cottages, but some very handsome country-houses had now risen up among them. New houses had also been built in the town; and among them were two, the property of our old acquaintance, M. Jasper Chasseaud, now become American consul, one of which he inhabited. We had the pleasure of complimenting him on his new dignity, and partaking of his hospitality in a splendid saloon, overlooking the shipping and port, and commanding an extensive view of Mount Lebanon. M. Guys, the French consul, and his estimable lady, also entertained us; and, could our stay have been prolonged here, we should have had no great reason to regret the delightful society of Nice.
I hastened to inform Lady Hester Stanhope of our arrival, and, whilst waiting for the camels and mules which she would probably send, I made the necessary preparations for the road. A cook was hired, named Cabôor, who, some twenty or five-and-twenty years before, had been my servant boy. Great was his joy at seeing his old master. He was destined, however, to remain but a short time with us, as I discovered that he had been turned away from Lady Hester Stanhope’s service, a circumstance which, of course, rendered it impossible for me to retain him in mine.
We attended divine service, performed by the American missionaries in the great saloon of M. Chasseaud’s house, and were much edified by the exemplary piety of these good men, who were labouring to spread general information among the Syrians, by giving gratuitous instruction to the children of the inhabitants, by printing useful books of practical knowledge in Arabic, and by leading them, through reading and meditation, to work their own way to salvation; trusting that an acquaintance with the scriptures and with the advantages of civilization will silently effect the pious object they have in view, without those violent attempts at conversion which cause enmity between brethren, and defeat their own end.
M. Guys lent us a handsome green double marquee, and all preparations were made for our departure, when two servants arrived from her ladyship, with her own mules, and the following answer to my letter.