August 7.—It was eleven in the day before we could get everything ready. As we quitted the terrace, where we had passed nearly fifteen months, my wife and daughter shed tears. The black girl, Zezefôon, was seen looking after us from the garden-wall, where she, or the other maids, had kept watch from the dawn. Our servants walked by our side to Sayda, and the secretary accompanied us.
When we were about two miles on the road, a servant was descried running after us. My heart beat—I knew not what might have happened: but his business was merely to deliver a bag he had on his shoulders, in which was a small Turkey carpet for spreading on the cabin-floor in the vessel: this Lady Hester had sent, with a message that perhaps we might find it serviceable in the passage. Even to the last moment did her kind consideration for our comforts manifest itself.
We embarked under the escort of Logmagi, amidst a crowd of persons who had collected on the strand. On board we found the entire hold neatly partitioned off by mats, which had been done by Logmagi’s care, and mats spread on the ballast; so that we had spacious and convenient berths for all the party. The schooner was fir-built, and quite new: whether this was the reason that she abounded in cockroaches I know not, or whether it was the extreme heat or her cargo that had introduced them; but there were thousands and thousands crawling in every direction, and this annoyance, added to the burning sun, made the passage far from pleasant. Our captain was named Kyriaco Candevíti, and the vessel the Thrasybulus. On Friday at sunset we anchored in Cyprus roads, and on Saturday morning were received on the seashore by our excellent and generous friend, Signor Baldassare Mattei, at the door of his marine villa, into which he ushered us, and, in the true spirit of Eastern hospitality, made himself our guest, and insisted on it that we were from that moment in our own mansion. It was the same house we had inhabited in 1832.
We remained in Cyprus three weeks, delighted with the kindness of the Europeans and natives, and revelling in the abundance for which that happy island is so famous. We were luxuriously supplied with sweet and water melons, grapes, figs, pomegranates, and other fruits, of a flavour and size passing belief. Partridges were at 2½d. each, hares at 6d., a loaf of bread of the size of a quart basin at 1½d., mutton at 2d. a pound, a fine hen for 5d., and so in proportion of other things, with the exception of fish, which was rather dear.
Finding here the same vessel that had carried us to Europe in 1832 and still commanded by the same master, we took our passage by her for 1000 frs. board included, and on the 30th of August set sail. Our voyage was prosperous, and, reaching the port of Marseilles on the 7th of October, we disembarked on the 8th in the afternoon, and entered the lazaretto, where we performed quarantine for fifteen days. Then, resting ourselves for a week in a hotel at Marseilles, during which time I transmitted a copy of the correspondence to England to be inserted in the newspapers, and, leaving Miss Longchamps with her friends, we betook ourselves to Nice, where we arrived on the 2nd of November, having been absent a little more than seventeen months. In mentioning the name of Mademoiselle Longchamps for the last time, I must, even at the risk of offending her extreme delicacy, bear testimony to her amiable cheerfulness of character under all our difficulties, to her rare conversational powers, her exemplary but unobtrusive piety, and those numberless good qualities, which a close acquaintance under trying circumstances gave us such peculiar opportunities of discovering.
After my arrival at Nice, I received letters from Lady Hester about once a month, up to the time of her death. The first was dated September 30, 1838.
Dear Doctor,
I cannot answer to-night the letters I have just received from you (from Cyprus), but must say two words to clear up what, to anybody but yourself, would appear but too extraordinary. The messenger, sent by Monsieur Jorelle, arrived at the moment my dinner was set before me: I looked at the direction of the letters, and gave them to Zezefôon to put by in the same room until I had dined. When I wanted them, one of yours was not to be found; and she turned the room upside down, always with her usual impudence asking if she ate letters, &c.;—you know what beasts they all are. It cannot be lost; but where she has stuffed it God knows! Yesterday she lost a piece of fine cloth in the same way, which is not yet found:—to-morrow something else. You know them but too well, and also their impudent conduct, when they find they are in the wrong.
The prince is gone to Europe. I hope soon to hear of your safe arrival in France, and I shall write to you by the next Vapour.[38]
Yours sincerely,
H. L. Stanhope.