The original institution of the janissaries was a species of militia, by which an army might always be collected in an emergency without being kept on foot. In the metropolis, however, a certain number of regiments were maintained as a body-guard to the Sultan, and as a means of awing the population into obedience to the acts of an arbitrary government. In time, these very instruments of tyranny, finding out their own importance, began themselves to exercise authority over their nominal masters; and the annals of the empire present numerous instances of their dethroning sultans, and putting them to death. The last act of this kind was that in which, beholding with jealousy the attempt made by Sultan Selim to new organize the army, they cut in pieces the troops disciplined after the European manner, together with the vizir, Mustapha Biractar, who favoured the change. Since that time the tumult had never completely subsided; and occasional quarrels were constantly taking place between the innovators and the janissaries.
It is most likely that, if the Turkish government had been at peace with the neighbouring powers, these turbulent and disaffected bands would soon have been reduced to order: but, unfortunately for Turkey, in addition to the Russian war, she was at this epoch torn in pieces by rebels, who were infesting, in one shape or another, almost all the provinces of the empire. Bagdad and Egypt, extensive but distant pashaliks, were both disturbed by intestine commotions, in which the public treasury was always the loser. The Wahabys, a sect of fanatics, had possessed themselves of the holy sepulchre of Mahomet, and were gaining ground on the Turks every day. Not thirty miles from the metropolis a petty war was waging between two provincial governors. The State, convulsed within, and threatened by formidable enemies from without, might be said to be in a tottering condition.
The janissaries, therefore, knowing that the government was too weak to control them, became every day more seditious. We were often told that tumults had taken place in Constantinople; but as Pera, where the Franks reside, is separated by the harbour from Constantinople proper, which is not often visited by the Franks, we were never eye-witnesses of them.
There was abundance of wild fowl on the Bosphorus during the cold weather; and I used sometimes to cross into Asia in a wherry to shoot. On two different occasions, I brought home two pelicans. They swam towards the boat, and suffered the gun to be levelled at them without showing the least symptom of alarm. Those who are desirous of shooting on the canal, or indeed anywhere in the neighbourhood of Constantinople, must obtain a teskery, or permission to that effect. I was stopped more than once by the keepers, who resorted to various stratagems to get money. One keeper, when I showed him my license, told me it was very true I had a teskery; but that an order had come down that no guns were to be fired on the canal, because two of the Sultan’s ladies were lying-in—at a distance of eight or ten miles! A piaster, however, would always set matters right, and cause me to be left undisturbed.
Pera was very gay during the winter. There were many dinner parties, evening parties constantly, and not unfrequently balls. In these meetings, the only thing that reminded me of being in Turkey was the presence of the several dragomans, interpreters of the different missions, who, from the necessity they are under of being as much at the Porte as with their ambassadors, are habited in a Turkish dress peculiar to that office. The Turks rarely, if ever, mix with the Franks: for they would not thank them for the most splendid banquet, if smoking were not allowed: and they dislike, worse than the French, the tiresomeness of sitting long at table. Besides, the use of wine effectually banishes a respectable Moslem from the repasts of Europeans, who, on their side, are too strongly attached to it to give it up for the sake of a Turkish guest.
On one occasion, Lady Hester invited the brother-in-law of the Captain Pasha and another person of distinction to dinner. Although entirely unaccustomed to the use of knives and forks, to sitting in chairs, to remaining more than half an hour at table, and to solid food like joints dressed in the English manner, they complied with the hospitable intentions of their hostess with so much courtesy that everything seemed to give them pleasure. They tasted of different wines, and each drank three or four glasses.
Lady Hester alludes to this visit in a letter to one of her correspondents, as follows:—
I have made my own way with the Turks, and I have contrived to get upon so intimate a footing, that the Pasha’s brother, brother-in-law, and captain of the fleet, dined with us, accompanied by the confidential physician. This may not sound like a compliment; but see the Captain Pasha’s brother sitting under a tree in a public walk:—he neither notices Greek, Armenian, or Frank women of any kind, but looks at them all as if they were sheep in a field: and they dare not come near him, as his attendants form a circle which they never pass, but stand and look at him for an hour together. I must likewise tell you that —— has been much shocked at my having gone on board the fleet in men’s clothes; a pair of overalls, a military great-coat, and cocked hat, is so much less decent a dress than that of a real fine lady in her shift and gown, and half naked besides! The Captain Pasha said I was welcome to go, but that I must change my dress, and I certainly thought it worth while. I closely examined everything, and as I understand a little about a ship, it was not quite a useless visit.
When the answer arrives from Paris, I will communicate to you the nature of it; and, at all events, as soon as it comes, and Mr. Liston is arrived, we shall leave this place. I find he is a sensible, liberal man. By the by, though I have made it a rule never to repeat any conversation with Monsieur de M.,[14] I will tell you in confidence one thing I said to him. He seldom talks politics, but one day asked questions about L. Bonaparte, ‘How was he, how would he be treated in England, how considered,’ &c., &c., &c. I answered, I knew not, but were I a public man I should have put him at once and kept him in close confinement. If he was his brother’s spy, he deserved it; if a traitor to his country, the same; for it is neither to the honour or interest of a great nation to encourage either the one or the other. These are my true feelings, and I am not ashamed to confess them to any one; and I fancy, although I can do justice to the French as a nation full of talent and resource, no one can better faire valoir their own country.
The long-promised bridle accompanies this letter. I fear you will not like it much, but it is of the newest fashion. There are two sorts of bridles here, such as I send, of various descriptions and colours, and those made for very great men of solid silver, weighing some of them twelve or fifteen pounds, which their own stallions can just bear the weight of during some grand procession. In the hand, these bridles are the most magnificent things you can imagine, but they are so confused with chains and ornaments that they bury a horse’s head, and have little effect. I have sent a red one to my brother, but I thought that a dark one would more become your white horse. All those with tassels are made with a little silk mixed with silver or gold twist: it looks pretty for a day, but the heat of the horse spoils it directly, and it cannot be cleaned! This bridle must be cleaned with lemon-juice.