Among a host of critics, the Memoirs have been pronounced by some of another class as devoid of artistic excellence. The author’s total abnegation of self, and his steady adherence to the rule he had laid down of shadowing the background on which he stood, in order to throw greater light on the more prominent figure in front, seems to have availed him nothing! Surely these critics might have had the sense to perceive that the author, if he had been so disposed, could have given to himself a much more flattering costume, and have arrayed himself in a garb of Eastern glitter as imposing as the most vivid fancy could desire. What was to prevent him from describing his familiar visits to the great people of the country, and the intercourse which he enjoyed with many of them—from recounting his pleasant adventures with lords and princes—from enumerating the ambassadorial gaieties of Constantinople, the frivolities of Smyrna, Cairo, and other cities, in which he bore his share—or from colouring incidents calculated to impose on the reader, too far removed from the scene of action to be able to decide what degree of credit was to be given to them? But it was not the author’s purpose to divert attention from the heroine of his story; and in all the adventures which the reader may peruse in the following pages, he wishes his own share in them to be lost sight of, excepting where his presence is necessary for making the description complete.
One word more remains to be added as to the credit which is to be attached to what Lady Hester Stanhope says of herself and others. The author of this narrative can conscientiously affirm that, after an intimate knowledge of her ladyship’s character for upwards of thirty years, he was always impressed with the highest respect for her veracity. Indeed, her courage was of too lofty a nature ever to allow her to condescend to utter a falsehood.
May 1, 1846.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
| VOL. I. | |
|---|---|
| Shipwreck near the Island of Rhodes (see p. [99]) | [Frontispiece.] |
| Giorgio Dallegio, page to Lady Hester (see p. [131)] | [xx] |
| A Drùze Aakel | [334] |
| Drûze Women | [345] |
| VOL. II | |
| Lady Hester Stanhope’s Arrival at Palmyra (see p. 130) | Frontispiece. |
| Village of Yabrud | 42 |
| Bridge over the Orontes | 47 |
| Calat El Medyk | 236 |
| Convent of Mar Elias | 309 |
| Interior of a Syrian Cottage | 313 |
| A Greek Monk | 333 |
| Interior of a Greek Sepulchre | 340 |
| Various Sarcophagi hewn out of rocks | 346 |
| Meshmushy | 375 |
| Costume of the Drûzes | 377 |
| Geser Behannyn | 381 |
| VOL. III. | |
| Portrait of the Author in his Bedouin Dress | Frontispiece. |
| Ras el Ayn, Bâlbec | 21 |
| Statue found at Gebayl, and presented to Lady HesterStanhope by the Prince of the Drûzes, now in thepossession of the Earl of Lonsdale | 73 |
| Princess of Wales’s Tent | 127 |
| Statue found at Ascalon | 162 |
| Palace of the Shayhh Beshýr at Muktara | 319 |
| English Consul’s House, at Larnaka | 363 |
CONTENTS
OF THE
THE FIRST VOLUME.
| CHAPTER I. | |
|---|---|
| Departure from England—Danger of Shipwreck—Gibraltar—Malta—Cityof La Valetta—Public Edifices—General aspectof the Island—Commerce—Character of the Inhabitants—Islandof Goza—Mansion of the Governor at San Antoniooccupied by Lady Hester Stanhope—English Visitors—LadyHester resolves on an Eastern Tour | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Zante—Earthquakes—Patras—The Marquis of Sligo joinsLady Hester’s party—Corinth—Visit of the Bey’s harým toLady Hester—Indiscreet curiosity—Women of the East—Isthmusof Corinth—Kencri—The Piræus | [22] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Athens—Residence there—Accommodations—Researchesof Lord Sligo—Embarkation for Constantinople—Sunium—Templeof Minerva—Zea—The Hellespont—Greek Sailors ina gale of wind—Erakli—Constantinople | [38] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Procession of the Sultan to the Mosque—A Dinner party—Therapia—Visitersthere—Lady Hester seeks permissionto reside in France—Turbulence of the Janissaries—Pera—Visitto Hafez Aly—Captain Pasha—Mahometan patientsattended by the Author—Princess Morousi—Disagreeableclimate of Constantinople—Return Lord Sligo toMalta | [50] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| The Author goes to Brusa—Situation of the city—Baths—Surroundingcountry—Residence at Brusa—Lady Hestermistaken for a youth—Women of Brusa—Return of theAuthor to Constantinople—Sudden death of Mr. Alexander,Lady Hester’s banker—Departure from Brusa—Residenceat Bebec—Provisions—Excursion to the village of Belgrade—Throwingthe Girýd—Fast of Ramadàn—LadyHester resolves to winter in Egypt—Presents to the Authorfor professional attentions | [73] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Departure from Constantinople—Prince’s Islands—Scio—DrunkenTurk—Rhodes—Storm—The ship springs a leak—Servantsdismayed—Land seen—The ship founders—Escapeof the passengers to a rock—The sailors proceed to the Islandof Rhodes—They return—The crew mutiny—The passengersgain the Island; and reach a hamlet—Our distressed situation—TheAuthor departs for the town of Rhodes—Hassan Beyrefuses assistance—The houses—Lady Hester ill of a fever—Lindo—Itsport—The Archon Petraki—Reports that theparty were lost—Lady Hester arrives at Rhodes—Town—WhyLady Hester chose the Turkish dress—Posting in Turkey—Mustafa | [95] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| The Author sets out for Smyrna—Etienne—Port of Marmora—Arabkui—Oolah—Moolah—Aharkui—Ancienttemple—Capu Rash—Sarcophagi—Chinny Su—River Meander—Ferry—GuzelIssar—Frank doctor—Ruins of Magnesia—ChapanOglu’s officers—Baynder—Civility of the governor—Pressinga horse—Smyrna—Visit to the consul—Purchases—RenegadoWelchman—Mustafa lays a plan to robthe Author—Departure for Rhodes—Eleusis—Scio—Stancho—CavoCrio, the ancient Cidus—Ruins—Wall—Temple—Theatre—Stadium—Rhodes—Newdresses—Servants cabal—GeorgioDallegio—Town of Rhodes—Embarkation in the Salsettefrigate—Harbour of Marmora—Arrival at Alexandria | [112] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Reception at Alexandria—Inhabitants—Commerce—Fortifications—Battleof Abukír—Administration of Justice—Servants—Climate—Asses—Ruinsof Old Alexandria—LakeMadiah—Passage boats—The boat with the Author and hisparty pursued and the passengers made prisoners—Their liberation—Bayof Abukír—Lake Edko—Porters—Rosetta—Houseof Signor Petrucci—Fleas and musquitoes—The town ofRosetta and environs—Sedentary habits of the Turks—AbuMandur—Exportation of corn—Mashes, a kind of barge—Voyageup the Nile—Banks of the river—Rich soil—Villages—Firstsight of the Pyramids—Bulák—Cairo—Pasha and hissuite—Lodgings—Lady Hester’s attire—Her visit to the Pasha—Mamelukeriding—Horse-market—Opening of a mummy—FrenchMamelukes—Mr. Wynne—Dancing Women—ThePyramids—Narrow escape from drowning | [135] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| The Author returns to Alexandria, in company with Mr.Wynne and Mr. McNamara—Proceeds to Rosetta—Coast ofthe Delta—Deserted hamlet—Brackish water—Misery of thePeasantry—Mouth of Lake Brulos—Dews of Egypt pernicious—Brulos—Melons—Egyptianencampment—Quail-snares—Arrivalat Damietta—Honours paid by the Pasha at Cairoto Lady Hester—Description of Damietta—Rice mills—Largeoxen—Salt tanks—Papyrus—Literary Society—Abûna Saba—LadyHester arrives at Damietta—Tents and baggage—Servants—Fleas,&c.—Departure from Damietta—El Usby—Samenessof scenery in Egypt—Naked children—Increase ofthe Delta denied—Martello towers—Iachimo hired—We sailfor Syria—List of the party—French Mamelukes—Wagesof servants in the Levant—Arrival at Jaffa—Customs in seaports—Costumeof Egyptian women | [167] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Loss of journals—Difficulties in learning Eastern languages—SignorDamiani; his simplicity—Porters—Residence at theFranciscan convent—Lady Hester’s dress—Not distinguishablefrom a Turk—Description of Jaffa—Buildings—Environs ofJaffa—Orchards—Mohammed Aga: his revenues: his expenditure—Pilgrims:their sufferings—Object of their pilgrimage—Departurefor Jerusalem—Mr. Pearce leaves the party—Peasantsreaping—Ramlah—Its monastery—Locusts—Lyd—Departurefrom Ramlah—Sober exhortation of a drunkenpriest—Mountains of Judæa—Abu Ghosh—Supper—Guards—Selim’sapprehensions—Cold—Brothers’s prophecy—Jerusalem—LadyHester’s lodgings—Dragomans—Visit to thegovernor—Kengi Ahmed—Emir Bey; his history—HolySepulchre—Mount Calvary—Visit to the Jews’ quarter—Bethlehem—Monastery—Bethlehemitesreputed to be robbers—Horses—Accidentto Mr. B.—Mufti’s dinner—Memorableplaces | [188] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Departure from Jerusalem—Arabian characters of horsesnot to be trusted—Ramlah—Demand of the governor to inspectLady Hester’s firmâns—Alarm of Selim, the Mameluke—Illnessof Mr. Pearce at Jaffa—Janissary dismissed—Departurefrom Ramlah—Politic conduct of Dragomans—RiverAwgy—Harým—Inhabitants of Galilee—Scorpions, and othervenomous reptiles—Um Khaled—Marble columns—Illness ofYusef the guide—Mountaineers of Gebel Khalýl and Nablûs—Cæsarea—Remainsof the ancient city—Obstacles to exploringthem—Ma el Zerky—Tontûra—Women carryingwater—Beauty of the road—Aatlyt—Mount Carmel—Häifa—Carmeliteconvent—River Mkutta, the Kishon of Scripture—Arrivalat Acre | [221] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Increased illness of Yusef—Servants leave—Visit to MâlemHaym, minister of the pasha—His history—Description ofAcre—Visit to the pasha—Hospitality of M. Catafago—Disposalof time—Excursion to Nazareth—Franciscan convent—Residenceand family of M. Catafago—Villages and landsfarmed out by him—The Convent library—Arrival of ShaykhIbrahim (Burckhardt), the celebrated traveller—Visit to theplain of Esdraëlon—Fûly—Battle of Fûly—Departure ofShaykh Ibrahim for Egypt—Excursion to Segery—Visit to theShaykh—Bargain for a horse—Accident to Lady Hester | [251] |
GIORGIO DALLEGIO, PAGE TO LADY HESTER STANHOPE.
TRAVELS