IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. III.
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1846.
Frederick Shoberl, Junior, Printer to His Royal Highness Prince Albert,
51, Rupert Street, Haymarket, London.
CONTENTS
OF
THE THIRD VOLUME.
| CHAPTER I. | |
|---|---|
| Preparations for a journey to Bâlbec—Precautions againstthe plague—Departure from Meshmûshy—Heavy attire—Theauthor loses his road—Cheerless night—Drûze hospitality—Barûk—BurElias—Village of Malaka—Cottagesin the Bkâ—Hard dumplings—Grumbling servants—Miseryof villages in the territory of Bâlbec—Mode of encampment—Arrivalat Bâlbec | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Residence at Bâlbec—Visit to the governor, the EmirJahjáh—Wretchedness of Bâlbec—Bath Scene—Encampmentof Lady Hester at Ras el Ayn—Sepulchral caverns—Greekbishop of Bâlbec—Catholic priest—Climate—Departurefrom Bâlbec—Any Ayty—Hurricane—Bsharry—Mineralsprings—Dress of women—Village of Ehden, conjecturedby some to be the site of Paradise—Resort of native Christians—Arrival of Selim, son of Mâlem Musa Koblan, of Hamah—TheCedars of Lebanon—Maronite monastery of Mar Antaniûs—LadyHester enters it in spite of the monks—Arrival atTripoli | [15] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Residence at Tripoli—The governor Mustafa Aga—LadyHester’s visit to him—Extraordinary civilities paid by her toSelim—Town and port of Tripoli—Greek bishop—Library—Paintingsin the church—Unwholesome climate—The author’sjourney to the convent of Dayr Hamýra—Illness of MûlyIsmael’s Khasnadár—Miraculous cures performed at theconvent—The Khasnadár’s wife—The monks—Castle of ElHussn—Extensive view—Arrival of Selim at the monastery—Hischaracter—Return of the author to Tripoli—Lady Hester’splan of an association of literary men and artists—Departurefor Mar Elias | [41] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Journey from Tripoli to Abra—Monastery of Dayr Natûr—Graveof Mr. Cotter—Ruins of Enfeh—Batrûn—Renegadopriest—Remarks on apostates—Gebayl, the ancientByblus—Mulberry plantations—Castle—Public-houses—NahrIbrahim, the river Adonis—Taberjeh—Ejectment ofcottagers in rain and cold—Nahr el Kelb, the ancient riverLycus—Inscriptions—Shuifád—Visit of Lady Hester to theSyt Habùs—Capugi Bashi sent to Lady Hester—Mbârak, thegroom—His dexterity—Nebby Yunez, the tomb of Jonah—Arrivalat Mar Elias—Precautions adopted against the CapugiBashi | [64] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Probability of the existence of Hidden Treasures in theEast—Manuscript pretending to reveal such Treasures,brought to Lady Hester—She obtains firmáns from thePorte authorizing her to make researches—She sends toHamah for Mâlem Musa—Her letter to the Pasha of Acre—Herplans for raising money—Journey of the Author toDamascus—His Visit to Ahmed Bey—Ambergris—Damascussabres—Horse Bazar—Horse Dealing and Horse Stealing—M.Beaudin’s night journey to Tyre—His horse stolen—Detectionand punishment of the thieves—Return of theAuthor to Mar Elias—His dangerous situation in a snow-storm—Interiorof a Drûze Cottage | [86] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Journey of Lady Hester from Mar Elias to Ascalon—Bussa—Acre—Sheprevails on Mr. Catafago to accompanyher to Ascalon—Illness of Ali Pasha—Professional visits of theAuthor—Abdallah Bey, the Pasha’s son—Extraordinaryhonours paid to Lady Hester—Her departure from Acre—Tremendousstorm—M. Loustaunau; his prophecies—Hishistory—Don Tomaso Coschich arrives with despatches fromSir Sydney Smith to Lady Hester—Substance of them—Presentssent to the care of Lady Hester by Sir Sydney—Hischaracter in the East—Cæsarea—Um Khaled—Villageof Menzel—Jaffa—Mohammed Aga, the governorordered to accompany Lady Hester—His character—Arrivalat Ascalon | [116] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| History of Ascalon—Ruins—Encampments—Forced labourof peasants—Excavations—Fragments of Columns—Discoveryof a mutilated statue—Apprehensions of SignorDamiani—Lady Hester orders the statue to be destroyed—Excavationsabandoned—Lady Hester’s narrative of the motivesand results of the researches—Auditing accounts—Mohammed Aga a fatalist—Return to Jaffa—Derwish MustafaAga and Lady Hester’s black female slave—Patients—MohammedBey; his story—Return of Lady Hester’sservant Ibrahim from England—Khurby, or the Ruins—Remainsnear that spot—Return to Acre—Altercation withmuleteers—Excavations at Sayda—Reflexions on researchesfor hidden treasures | [152] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Visit of the Author to the Maronite convent in the villageof Joon—Abyssinian man and woman—Black horses—LadyHester fixes herself at Meshmûshy—Solitary wigwam—TheAuthor wishes to return to England—He sets out for Egypt—Destructionof Tyre, not so complete as travellers represent—Aself-taught lithotomist and oculist—Seaweeds usedfor dyeing—Embarkation for Egypt in a vessel laden withwood—Impalement—Passengers on board—Cyprus—Revoltin Gebel Nablûs—Frequency of insurrections there—Arrivalat Rosetta—Smoking during Ramazán—The Author is joinedby Burckhardt, or shaykh Ibrahim—Mutiny of troops at Cairo—Departureby land for Alexandria—Lake Edko—Stayin Alexandria—Coasting voyage to Damietta—Burckhardtnot considered as a Turk—Foreigners betrayed by theirspeech | [188] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| M. Surûr, English agent at Damietta—Patients—Excursionto Lake Menzaleh—Mataryah—Melikýn—Pounds forcattle—Ruins of San—Broken pottery—Conjectures on itsoriginal use—Tennys—Dybeh—Botarga fishery—Fowling—Runningdeemed indecorous in a Turk—Menzaleh—Hauntedhouse—Disdain of pedestrian travellers—False door—Departurefor Syria—Vessel, cargo, and crew—Charms to raise thewind—Arrival at Acre, Tyre, and Abra | [223] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Disappearance of Colonel Boutin, a French traveller—Effortsof Lady Hester Stanhope, for investigating his fate—Missionof Abd el Rasák from Mahannah to Lady Hester—Mannersand character of the Bedouins—Story of MustafaAga, Khasnadár of Mûly Ismael, and his wife—Departure ofAbd el Rasák and his companions | [254] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Quarrel between a Drûze and a Metouály—Buying ofmedals—Imposition practised on Lady Hester—Punishment ofthe offender—Illness and death of the Greek patriarch—Funeralceremonies—Election of a new patriarch—Cottage in thegardens of Sayda—Long drought—Flocks of birds—Hydrophobia—Excursionof the Author to Garýfy—Shems ed Dynand his father—Purchase of wine—Decline of commerce in theLevant—Mâlem Dubány and his daughters—Extortion ofEastern rulers—Arrival of Miss Williams—Arrival of Mr.Bankes—He copies and removes fresco paintings—Failure ofhis first attempt to reach Palmyra—Visit of Mr. Buckingham—Locusts—LadyHester takes a voyage to Antioch | [267] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Journey of the Princess of Wales to Jerusalem—Burial atAbra—Dismissal of Ibrahim—Padre Nicolo—M. Ruffin appointedFrench consul at Sayda—Great drought—Festival ofSt. Elias—Alarm of robbers—Visit of the Author to theShaykh Beshýr’s wife, and to Syt Frosýny Kerasâty—Furtheralarms—Festival of Byrám—Cottages taken for Lady Hesterat the village of Rûm—Depilation—Flight of Mâlem Dubány—Returnof Lady Hester from Antioch—Result of researchesafter the murderers of Col. Boutin—The Ansáry refuse to givethem up—Mustafa Aga Berber collects troops to punish theAnsáry—Motives of Lady Hester’s voyage to Antioch—Visit ofM. Regnault, French consul at Tripoli—M. Loustaunau and hispredictions—History of Michael Ayda—Return of Giorgio fromEngland, with Mr. N., as successor to the Author—Lastvisit of the latter to Acre—The governor of Smyrna putto death—Hawáry soldiers—Visit to the Emir Beshýr | [310] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Departure of the Author for Europe—Arrival at Larnaka,in Cyprus—Hospitality of M. Vondiziano, British vice-consul—Toursin the island—Leucosia—The Greek archbishop—Citywalls—Lepers—Cytherea—Monastery of St. Chrysostom—Famagusta—Returnto Larnaka—Carnival amusements—Houses—Amourof Signor Baldo—Murder of Prince GeorgeMorusi—History of Signor Brunoni—Cypriote women not remarkablefor beauty—Superstitious notions—The Greek archbishopand his dragoman Giorgaki—Insurrection of Turks—Howquelled by Cara Pasha—Pusillanimity of the consuls—Thunder-storm—Lentendiet—Malignant fevers—Excursionin the interior—Idalia—Leucosia—M. Brens—Robbery in thegovernor’s palace—Proceedings against the suspected—Intolerancetowards freemasons | [359] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Departure from Cyprus, and voyage to Marseilles—Dirtinessof the French ship and her crew—Fare on board—Crueltreatment of a political prisoner—Angora greyhound—Arrivalat Pomegue, the quarantine anchorage of Marseilles | [416] |
| Additional Note | [423] |
TRAVELS
OF
LADY HESTER STANHOPE.
CHAPTER I.
Preparations for a journey to Bâlbec—Precautions against the plague—Departure from Meshmûshy—Heavy attire—The author loses his road—Cheerless night—Drûze hospitality—Barûk—Bur Elias—Village of Malaka—Cottages in the Bkâ—Hard dumplings—Grumbling servants—Misery of villages in the territory of Bâlbec—Mode of encampment—Arrival at Bâlbec.
A journey to Bâlbec had been projected for this autumn; but obstacles of one kind or another had caused it to be delayed until the season was very far advanced. At length, however, every preparation being made, we set out on the 18th of October. During the whole of the year, the plague had not entirely ceased at Damascus, and in several villages of the Bkâ, a plain which we should have to traverse from one extremity to the other. Lady Hester was strongly impressed with the dread of exposure to its contagion[1] from the carelessness of some of the people; to prevent which the strictest precautions were taken, and the observance of these considerably diminished the pleasure which such a tour would otherwise have afforded. We travelled with tents to prevent the necessity of sleeping in villages; and no fire was ever to be lighted unless where the country supplied fuel without having recourse to the inhabitants for it, which was equivalent to a total interdict; as, with the exception of a few orchards, there was not a tree through the whole plain. To supersede the necessity of cooking or buying provisions, a kind of minced meat dumplings was made, enough for the consumption of a week. These, and bread-cakes baked for the same purpose, were to be eaten indifferently by all. We carried with us kitchen utensils, tents, beds, coffee, rice, bûrgol or malted wheat, soap, candles, oil, wine, vinegar, vermicelli, macaroni, cheese, tea and sugar, syrups for sherbet, and fuel for Lady Hester, whose sex and delicate health necessarily prevented her from submitting to the privations to which men could willingly subject themselves. It was necessary likewise to be provided with cords, nails, hammers, axes, hoes, and some other things of this sort; so that we had wherewithal to colonize as well as to travel. For if, as it was reported, the plague still raged at Bâlbec, the impossibility of obtaining anything from the town would expose us, if not thus furnished, to great inconveniences. All this baggage loaded fifteen mules. The party consisted of Lady Hester, the dragoman, myself, eight men-servants, four women and a black female slave, making altogether fifteen; and we all rode on asses.