On the 10th, about ten in the morning, we got sight of Cyprus, bearing North. Through the day we had a fresh breeze, and went, as I suppose, at the rate of five knots. Our vessel was leaky, and the crew baled her twice (for there was no pump) before noon. Every passenger was sick but the soldier, the Egyptian shaykh, and myself. A little before sunset, we anchored in a nook to the East of the island. After sunset the wind freshened; but we were in perfectly smooth water.
On the 12th we weighed, and coasted the island towards the south. We doubled a small cape, and came in sight of the bay of Limasol, into which a gentle breeze brought us after sunset. Smooth water and the sight of the lamps in Limasol (for it was Ramazán) had revived the passengers, and Giovanni begged to be permitted to go on shore with the boat which was hoisted out to fetch water. When he returned, he brought me a supply of grapes, honey, fresh bread, eggs, and other articles, which made the rest of the passage very tolerable: but the water we took in here was extremely bad.
The island of Cyprus looks from the sea very picturesque and of varied scenery. Its grand features are a chain of mountains which runs through its whole length, and which is rendered remarkable by a sugar-loaf elevation in one part, and a lofty long summit in another. These large mountains detach themselves into smaller ones, and these into hills, of conical and other shapes, which come down to the sea-coast. The point, that forms the bay of Limasol, is a cape of flat land, running into the sea to a considerable length. As we coasted the island, the face of it appeared variegated with trees and pastures, and rising in fair slopes. Half a league from the shore, near our first anchoring place, we saw a village, which resembled those I had left in Syria.
About midnight, a light breeze sprung up: and, taking advantage of it, we set sail for Egypt. It may be remarked that, at this season of the year, when the west winds prevail[63] very constantly, the country vessels seldom attempt to beat down by short tacks: but they make a long tack to Cyprus, and a second brings them to Egypt.
Saturday, the 13th, was a cloudy day. Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday we kept close-hauled, our course being S.W. and S.W. and by W. At sunrise there was generally a calm, and a sea as smooth as a mirror: about ten a breeze would come on, which would freshen until about sunset, when it usually became as strong as the vessel could well bear. The captain, one morning, frightened me somewhat by leaping into the sea: but I found that his intention was only to bathe, and, after swimming about the vessel, he returned on board. I was not tempted to follow his example, although very fond of swimming.
As my provisions failed me somewhat, I was surprised to find that the Jew produced from his store many excellent things, such as sweet biscuits, cakes, dried fruit, &c. He was a native of Tiberias, and was now on his way to Gibraltar, and perhaps to England, to beg for the Holy City. I found some relief to the tiresomeness of the passage in his conversation. His name was Yudy (Judas?). Among other things, he gave me the details of a revolt which took place in Gebel Nablûs during the preceding year, at which he was present in the capacity of secretary to Málem Sulymàn, who was seràf to the forces on the occasion: which I thought it worth while to write down, as descriptive of the petty wars which often take place in the Turkish provinces.
In the autumn of each year, Mûly Ismael and his mercenaries were generally hired by the pasha of Damascus for the purpose of marching through the southern districts of the pashalik, where there had been for many years past a refractory spirit, and a disposition to throw off allegiance to the reigning pasha. This had more particularly manifested itself on Gebel Nablûs, the ancient Samaria. The Mûly proceeded on his march, as was customary; but, on approaching Suffýn, a village that could raise 400 muskets, he was told to retire, or he should be received as an enemy, as they would no longer submit to the oppressions of the government. The Mûly accordingly halted and encamped. He did not attack the village, but sent a courier to acquaint the pasha with the resistance which was opposed to him, and to demand fresh troops. In the mean time, it was whispered that Mûly Ismael had received a bribe to induce him to remain passive. Fresh troops, however, were sent from Damascus; and, lest these should not be enough, aid was required from the pasha of Acre and afforded. With these latter troops, Sulymàn, the banker, went, and with him his secretary, Yudy. Thus the forces of two pashas were united against one village.
No sooner did these reinforcements reach the encampment, than, on a sudden, their leaders also became pusillanimous, and declared it impossible to attack the village. An interrupted cannonade was carried on from a great distance, but no demonstration of resistance was made by the village, unless when the troops approached too near, on which occasions they were warmly received. The peasants had no other protection than a trench carried round their village: but the place itself was on an elevated situation, and presented natural difficulties. This warfare continued several days. Despatches from the pashas cried shame on their conduct, saying that they would be loaded with infamy if they suffered themselves to be baffled by so few men, and those not soldiers.
During this suspense, the regular forces were more than once on the point of running away. On one occasion a report was industriously circulated that the peasants intended to attack the camp by night. Accordingly, the horses were kept bridled, the troops lay on their arms, and the seràf Sulymàn was seized with a diarrhœa from fright, and had taken his measures to escape with the gold, intending to drop some silver about on the road, as a trap to stop the pursuit.[64]
It will be recollected that, in relating the occurrences at Damascus, a certain Hamed Bey, son of Yusef Pasha, was mentioned, as commanding a corps of mercenaries. This man had now been sent by the pasha of Damascus, and, not having shared in the bribes given to the other leaders, resolved on distinguishing himself by a spirited attack on the village. He was joined by an aga, who was also aware of the treachery of Mûly Ismael and his colleagues. These two, then, forming a body of horse and foot, advanced to the trench. The peasants received them by a general discharge along their whole line, which threw Hamed Bey’s cavalry into disorder: but, whilst they were reloading, the infantry rushed forward sword in hand, passed the trench, and mixed pell-mell among the peasantry. It being harvest time, there was a great quantity of straw lying near the spot where the attack was made; and, the wind being high, the Turks got to windward, set fire to it, and, following the smoke which blinded their adversaries, they discomfited them completely. Thirty-one heads were cut off; for which a reward of 100 piasters each was given, and, as is customary, a stamped piece of tin, which the gainers wear afterwards in their caps or somewhere about them, as a sign of their prowess. Two shaykhs and several peasants were made prisoners, and for them 150 piasters each was awarded.[65] The Albanians directed their attention chiefly to the women, whom they violated wherever they caught them: the deláty plundered for effects.[66] The prisoners were conducted to the camp, and, on as many as chains could be found for, chains were put. The rest were tied with their hands behind them, and made to lie on their backs: from which position, if they dared to stir, a soldier with a whip lashed them cruelly. Others were bound together with a long cord in nooses round their necks: so that if one attempted to stir he tightened the noose round the neck of the man next to him, and might eventually strangle him. The women, who were not comely, or who were somewhat old, were sold back to the old men for five, ten, or fifteen piasters: and thus the affair terminated.