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TO

those people of the Enchanted Desert who called me “Chief,”—Indians, employees, missioners, traders,—whose confidence, loyalty, and devotion made my work among the Hopi and Navajo tribes possible of success; and to humbler friends, my faithful horses, Dandy and Barney Murphy, Prince and Frank, that went with me so many weary miles, and were shot, by my order, to save them from the miseries of Governmental economy, this book is dedicated. [[vii]]

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CONTENTS

PAGE
I [Nolens Volens] 3
II [Across the Plains] 11
III [Into “Indian Country”] 22
IV [Old Trails and Desert Fare] 30
V [Desert Life and Literature] 44
VI [A Northern Wonderland] 54
VII [The First Ball of the Season] 65
VIII [Old Oraibi] 78
IX [The Making and Breaking of Chiefs] 94
X [The Provinces of the “Mohoce or Mohoqui”] 101
XI [The Law of the Realm] 113
XII [Comments and Complaints] 122
XIII [A Desert Vendée] 142
XIV [Soldiers, Indians, and Schools] 157
XV [An Echo of the Dawn-Men] 181
XVI [Fiddles and Drums] 191
XVII [Service Tradition] 210
XVIII [Buttons and Bonds] 224
XIX [Our Friends, the Tourists] 240
XX [The Great Snake-Ceremony] [[viii]]260
XXI [Desert Belascos] 275
XXII [On the Heels of Adventure] 287
XXIII [The Red Bootleggers] 297
XXIV [Held for Ransom] 312
XXV [Wanted at Court] 325
XXVI [Hopi Annals] 336
XXVII [L’Envoi] 361

[[ix]]

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ILLUSTRATIONS

[Announcing the Snake Dance] Frontispiece