In the Wilds of South America

by Leo E. Miller

The Falls of Salto Bello of the Rio Papagayo.

By this time the order of the expedition had settled down to a regular routine. We arose as the first sharp blasts of a bugle smote the silence of early morning. A short time later the faithful Juan, a colored man who was as big-hearted and obliging as he was tall and powerful, appeared with coffee. At about eight o’clock a bountiful breakfast was served. Then we mounted the riding animals which were brought and saddled by the camaradas, and started on the day’s ride. Each person was advised in advance of the distance to be covered, and it was easy to locate the camping-site by watching the numbers on the telegraph-poles; there were eleven of these to the kilometre, and as they were numbered consecutively it was of course simple to arrive at the numeral that marked the end of the day’s ride. Usually we made camp at about 4 P. M., but sometimes it was much later. The cook and his assistants immediately began to prepare supper, and always had it ready in a short time, much to our relief, as there was nothing to eat between meals. The other men cleared spaces, erected the tents, and cared for the luggage and animals. Cherrie and I occupied a fifteen by twenty-five foot balloon-silk fly that I had used on the Orinoco, and this was one of the few shelters that withstood the entire trip; it was used later on the Rio da Duvida by Colonel Roosevelt. If there was time we went on a short hunting-trip and usually secured at least a few interesting and little-known mammals and birds. Night in camp was invariably delightful; when the weather was favorable the peons gathered great heaps of wood and made a huge bonfire. Then we sat around it and listened to Colonel Roosevelt telling of his hunting adventures on the Western plains, in the north woods, or on the African veldt—all told in such a way that we were enthralled and could visualize pronghorn, cougar, bear, and lion, as well as their actions in their native wilderness. Should the weather be unfavorable, Cherrie and I repaired to the colonel’s tent for a visit; or the colonel and Kermit came to see us. We discussed history, literature, and science, and sometimes, if the conditions were propitious, we were favored with tales of ghosts, the werewolf, and other supernatural beings. I always looked forward to these occasions; they are among the never-to-be-forgotten events incidental to our journey through the wilds with Colonel Roosevelt.

It required four days’ time to reach the Juruena. We had been compelled to reduce the amount of baggage very materially shortly after leaving the Parecís village, as many of the cargo-animals had given out on the trail, and the others were weakening perceptibly. It was of course impossible to carry along grain for the animals; each night they were turned loose to shift for themselves, and while there was an abundance of grass, the long-continued strain began to tell. We abandoned most of the tents, and all superfluous clothing was left behind. The equipment for collecting and preserving specimens had to be reduced to a minimum also, on account of its weight; we retained only a few hundred cartridges and about a dozen traps with which to prosecute the natural-history work. This reduction of the impedimenta was unavoidable and affected every member of the party, either directly or indirectly. It was one of the several instances where individual interests had to be sacrificed for the good of the whole expedition.

At Juruena we made the acquaintance of a primitive tribe of Indians who probably represent the lowest type of savage to be found anywhere on the South American continent. They are known as the Nhambiquaras. As we drew up on the river-bank they gathered about and stared in curiosity at the party, but betrayed no hostile feelings. Colonel Rondon had but recently succeeded in establishing amicable relations with them. On his first visits into Matto Grosso, numbers of his men had been slain by the Nhambiquaras, and they had resented his every step into their stronghold. In the days that followed, Colonel Rondon related some of his experiences with these Indians. As accompanied by a few companions, among whom Lieutenant Lyra figured prominently, he made his way slowly and painfully through the chapadão, parties of the savages constantly followed his movements. On account of the open character of the country they remained in concealment during the daytime; but when night spread a protecting cloak of darkness over the land, the Indians became bolder and harassed the camp. It was impossible to build a fire, for that would have enabled the lurking fiends to see their victims and make easy targets of them. After trying many schemes for making friends with the savages, Colonel Rondon took a phonograph into the wilds with him, and played it at night. The Indians were unable to understand the music, and finally their curiosity prompted them to leave the sheltering blackness and come timidly into the Brazilians’ camp in search of the sound.

Colonel Rondon has persistently treated the wild people with kindness. During all their persecution of himself and his men, he permitted no one to retaliate in any manner whatever. They have therefore learned to look upon him as a friend and some even appeared to be heartily glad to see him.

In stature the Nhambiquara is short, but well built and of a rather dark-brown color. It seems possible that some of them have a slight amount of negro blood in their veins, obtained from runaway slaves many years ago; a few of this class had a light growth of hair on the face. The others were beardless and their bodies also were entirely devoid of hair.

Clothes are entirely unknown to these Indians, and practically the only ornaments in their possession were strings of beads given to them by Colonel Rondon. The men had the septum of the nose and upper lip pierced, and wore quills or slender pieces of bamboo in these perforations. They had the unpleasant habit of coming close up to one and jabbering at a furious rate of speed; this caused the labrets to move uncomfortably near one’s eyes, and it was necessary at times to retreat a short distance in order to get out of range of the menacing ornaments. This tribe builds curious round huts or maloca of grass or leaves, and cultivates small areas of mandioca; but forest fruits, game, and wild honey form important articles of diet. Ants, snakes, and almost any creature they can capture are eaten. One day I saw several children playing with a calabash of honey, when they accidentally upset it on the ground; this, however, caused them not the slightest concern; they gathered around the spot, and scooped up handfuls of the saturated sand, which they ate. When they had finished, a deep hole remained to mark the site of their banquet!

The weapons of the Nhambiquaras consist of bows six feet tall, made of tough black or red palm-wood, and long bamboo arrows. The points of the latter vary according to the purpose for which they are to be used, and some of them are poisoned. A bamboo cap is placed over the points that have been treated with curare, to prevent the owner’s causing injury to himself, and also to keep the rain from washing the poison off. Hunting-parties take long tramps at frequent intervals, subsisting on the fruits of their prowess. At night a rude lean-to is built of branches; a fire, started by rubbing two sticks together, is placed in front, and the game is roasted and eaten; then they stretch themselves on the bare ground to sleep, like so many sheep or dogs.

Colonel Rondon was always kind to the Indians. He gave them beads, trinkets, and food. A herd of steers was driven along with the expedition, and one of the animals was killed whenever meat was required. The Indians always received an entire quarter of beef. They built a huge fire, tore off pieces of the meat and threw them into the embers, where they were left until charred; then they were raked out with a stick and eaten. This was continued far into the night, until not a morsel remained. Sometimes the Indians danced for us, and once we joined them. They clasped hands and stamped about in a circle singing in a loud, shrill voice, words that sounded like “Nã-na-ha-ha-ha.” After a time we regretted having entered into their pastime, for they kept up the dancing for an hour or more and refused to permit us to drop out.