The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and shaped, as shown on [Plate 48]. In the opposite end of the handle a slot is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as shown on [Plate 48], and at an angle, as indicated.
A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
Clown Running Wheel.
Cock Horse.
The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen, using India ink.
The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle.