		PAGE
I	The Yellowstone in Winter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[1]
II	Ski Snaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[10]
III	High Lights and Low Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[24]
IV	Running Yankee Jim's Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[54]
V	"Calamity Jane" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[77]

	PART II
I	Present Day Yellowstone Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[97]
II	Livingston Twenty Years After . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[120]
III	Livingston to Big Timber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[138]
IV	Big Timber to Billings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[170]
V	Billings to Glendive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[200]
VI	Glendive to the Missouri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[239]

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Yellowstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

[frontispiece]

	Elk in gathering storm, Jackson's Hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[14]
	Elk stalled in snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[18]
	As we pulled up close behind him . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[18]
	The Falls in winter from Point Lookout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[30]
	The Giant is the biggest geyser in North America . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[38]
	"Yankee Jim's" cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[56]
	"Yankee Jim" with a trout from his canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[68]
	Just above the first drop in "Yankee Jim's" Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[68]
	Foot of "Yankee Jim's" Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[72]
	"Calamity Jane" in 1885 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[80]
	I found "Calamity" smoking a cigar and cooking breakfast . . . . . . . .	[80]
	Golden Gate Canyon and Viaduct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[104]
	Emigrant Peak, Yellowstone River, near Livingston, Mont. . . . . . . .	[108]
	Tower Fall and Towers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[110]
	Yellowstone Park Headquarters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[116]
	Director Mather, Secretary of the Interior Fall, and Super- intendent Albright camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[116]
	Superintendent Albright and Mule Deer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[116]
	Gate of the Mountains, Yellowstone River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[122]
	Where Custer fell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[126]
	The blacksmith shop where my boat was set up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[142]
	We launched the boat below the Livingston bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[142]
	A difficult riffle below Springdale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[142]
	Pete Holt and Joe Evans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[150]
	Hauled out at the foot of a rough rapid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[150]
	A sharp pitch on the upper Yellowstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[150]
	Joe Evans who piloted me the first half day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[156]
	Pete Holt and Joe Evans with their inflated life preservers . . . . . . .	[156]
	"Chickens, children and hogs" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[156]
	Round-up outfit at dinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[172]
	A savage riffle near the site of Captain Clark's boat camp . . . . . . . .	[176]
	Sunrise on a quiet reach of the lower Yellowstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[176]
	The Yellowstone below the outlet of the Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[180]
	Rough water and a bad bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[180]
	Herd, Powder River Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[202]
	Sheep by the water, Big Powder River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[202]
	The County bridge over the Yellowstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[206]
	Pompey's Pillar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[212]
	The Yellowstone from the top of Pompey's Pillar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[212]
	Custer's Pillar, Bad Lands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[216]
	The grating which protects the initials carved by Captain Clark on the side of Pompey's Pillar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[216]
	Stockyards, Miles City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[224]
	"Freightin'" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[224]
	One of the famous school bands of Glendive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[240]
	Buffalo stampede . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[242]
	The dam across the Yellowstone at Intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[246]
	Portaging my boat round the Intake Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[246]
	Completing the portage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[246]
	The "Old-N" crossing the Powder River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[254]
	The Yellowstone just above Livingston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[270]
	The Yellowstone just after receiving the Big Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[270]
	The broad stream of the Yellowstone below Glendive . . . . . . . . . . .	[280]
	The last bridge above the Missouri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	[280]
	Where the Yellowstone takes possession of the Missouri . . . . . . . . .	[280]

ILLUSTRATIONS

PART I

TWENTY YEARS BEFORE