Figure 5. Scatter diagram of thread counts per inch. Figures indicate number of specimens. Symbols: triangle, apex down, unit consists of one warp and one weft element; open square, unit consists of one warp, two weft elements; concentric circles, unit consists of two warps, one weft element; triangle, apex up, unit consists of warp and weft pairs.
Several variations of the elemental over-one-under-one plain weave are exemplified by the Chincha cloths. Included are the following: combinations of pairs of warps or wefts with single yarns of the opposite system, and pairs of warps and wefts as in the two-by-two basket weave. The one hundred and twelve specimens represented in the scatter diagram ([fig. 5]) fall into groups, according to the variations of the plain weave these are listed below in the order of their frequency:
Group 1. Paired warps crossed by paired wefts: 8
Group 2. Single warps crossed by paired wefts: 20
The thread counts of 18 in this group are approximately 58 warps by 40 wefts per inch.
Group 3. Single warps crossed by single wefts: 22
Thread counts in this group range from 13 warps by 18 wefts to 156 warps by 40 wefts per inch. [Pl. 5],d shows a fabric with count of 108 warps by 42 wefts per inch.
Group 4. Paired warps crossed by single wefts: 62
Thread counts range from 16 warp pairs by 12 wefts to 44 warp pairs by 32 wefts per inch with one specimen having the high count of 80 warp pairs by 28 wefts per inch.
In terms of weaving units, whether single yarns or pairs of yarns, 56 of the 112 counts taken fall within a range of 26 to 44 warp units and 24 to 36 weft units. [Figure 5] shows this concentration within the frame.
Weaving techniques, other than the basic structural types, are few in number. Drawing in colored warps for stripes is a preliminary to the actual interlacing of the elements. The results of this procedure can best be discussed under the heading "Pattern."