Textures of fine fabrics. a, comparable to modern cheesecloth (4-4058b); b, canvaslike (16-1255a); c, open plain weave showing high twist of single-ply yarns (4-3883b).
a, reconstruction of end-to-end warp locking, shown in d, by methods which make possible the change from monochrome to stripes; b, close-texture, semibasket weave with three heavy loomstring wefts at end selvage, whipped seam (16-1292); c, end selvage reinforced with needleknitting (16-1217) (cf. [pl. 8],f, g); d, fine cotton garment material with stripes below monochrome section (16-1225), right-hand striped section faded; e, section of textile (×2) with turn of fill-in straightening wefts indicated by black threads (4-4056) (cf. [pl. 8],a). Width of b and c, 3 inches.
a-e, border stripes on Chincha cloths (16-1268, 16-1277, 16-1214, 16-1251, 16-1255a), colors, brown and blue; f, section of plaid with border stripe (4-3973d). Selvages at left. Width of narrowest border stripe, one-fourth inch; others in proportion.
a, reconstruction of border stripes of fabric in [plate 6],e; b, reconstruction of stripe found on several specimens; c, section of fabric (×2) showing variations in plain weave and amount of twist given to weaving elements (16-1240); d, section of fabric (×2) showing two-and-two basket weave varied in appearance by arrangement of colored yarns (4-3962).
Reconstructions, a, fill-in weft to straighten working edge (cf. [pl. 5],e); b, plain running stitch; c, double running stitch shown in two colors for clarity; d, seam in saddler's or baseball stitch, also called antique seam; e, seam in whipping stitch: f, g, top and side view of needleknitting type found on Chincha edge ([pl. 5],c), alternate stitches plain whipping stitches; h, i, two views of reinforced selvage showing strand of twining through tops of whipping stitches.