[Table 2]

Frequencies of Complete Width Measurements

Width in
inches
Number of
occurrences
Total
occurrences
Group 1
4-40294.01
4-3889c5.01
4-3882f7.01
4-39629.01
4-3710m11.515
Group 2
4-3633b, 16-1240, -1256, -1260, -127414.05
4-3970, -4075d, 16-1274, -1280 (2)15.55
16-1240, -124816.02
4-4022a (2), 16-122517.53
4-3883b (2)19.52
4-4068b20.5118
Group 3
4-3883d21.01
4-4059a22.51
4-4068b, 16-129123.02
16-1237, -1238, -1242, -1251, -125325.05
4-3890a, -405626.02
4-3883a, -4068d, 16-1251, -126527.04
4-4023 (2), -4027, 16-1257, -1265, -1271, 1272, -128928.08
4-3633a, -4055, 16-126129.0326
Group 4
16-125930.01
16-1250, -129431.02
4-3973d (2), 16-1283, -1304d33.04
16-1252, -1269b34.02
16-1266, -129235.02
16-128641.0112

Group 3, as listed in [table 2], comprises breadths falling within a range of 21 inches through 29 inches. These widths reduce weaving speed and bring about problems in manipulation of the loom parts. The twelve widest complete breadths in the Chincha lot range from 30 inches to 35 inches with a single specimen measuring 41 inches. For this last piece, and possibly for several of the narrower ones in the same group, a two-bar loom not attached to the weaver's waist seems indicated.

Complete widths of Chincha plain-weave fabrics in order from narrowest to widest:

Spec. no.Inches
4-40294
4-3889c5
4-3882f7
4-39629
4-3710m11.5
16-127413.5 + 14.5
4-3633b14
16-125614
16-126014
16-124014.5 + 15.5
4-397015
16-128015 + 15
4-4075d15.5
16-124816
16-122516.5
4-4022a17.5 + 17.5
4-3883b19 + 19.5
4-4068b20.5 + 23
4-3883d21
4-4059a22.5
16-129123
16-125324.5
16-123725
4-3890a26
4-405626
4-3883a27
16-125127 + 24.5
4-4068d27.5
16-126527.5
4-402728
16-125728
16-127128
16-127228
16-128928
4-402328 + 28.5
16-126128.5
4-3633a29
4-405529
16-125930
16-125030 + 31
16-129431
16-128333
16-1304b33
4-3973d33 + 33
16-125233.5 + 33.5
16-1269b34
16-126634.5
16-129235
16-128641

Seventy-odd individually woven breadths of material are incomplete as to width. The arbitrary groupings in which these fall are as follows:

Under10 inches in width3specimens
11 inches to 20 inches42specimens
21 inches to 30 inches22specimens
31 inches to 40 inches7specimens

Side selvages strengthened by any one of the several methods we know from commercial weavings are rare in textiles from primitive looms. It is not uncommon, however, to find four or five edge yarns drawn more closely together than are the others in the web. Familiarity with these two facts made our discovery of a unique selvage finish a matter of unusual interest. The edges of specimens 16-1228 and 16-1236 have been reinforced by two stitchery techniques. [Plate 8],i shows the ordinary whipping stitches which form the foundation for the second technique. [Plate 8],h shows this second line of work to consist of a double strand twined, but always from back to front, with the tops of the whipping stitches.

On one of the Chincha 4- specimens (4-4068a) the half-inch selvage is distinguished from the body of the fabric by the use of warp yarns lighter in color than those appearing in the body of the fabric and by the two-over-one weave of the right-hand selvage in contrast to the one-over-one weave found elsewhere in the fabric. In specimen 4-4027 the edges are strengthened on each side for some six inches of the length by a single heavy 4-ply warp unit.