Indeed, in our superb self-satisfaction we often deceive ourselves in fancying that Orientals view with open-mouthed admiration everything European or American. I am reminded of a Korean nobleman, who, on being asked, after his return to Seoul from America, how he liked New York, replied, “Oh, very well, except the dirt and the smells, which were horrible.” Another similar instance was that of one of the Koreans who went with us to Chemulpo and Fusan, who saw the two-story houses, the ships in the harbor and various wonders of civilization, and exclaimed, “Poor Korea, poor Korea;” but when he heard a foreign band play at the Japanese consulate, remarked with delight, “At least there is one thing in which Japan cannot rival or compare with us, our music!”
Through the whole winter I was at the palace very often, as were the ladies of the American and Russian legations, and Dr. Avison of our mission, who was physician to the king, was frequently consulted, and the recipient also personally of many royal favors. In the spring the prime minister came, saying the queen had sent him to ask Mr. Underwood to draw up plans and estimate the cost of a school for the sons of the nobility. The site selected was between the east and west palaces. Her majesty proposed to erect dwellings for the teachers, whom my husband was asked to recommend and send for to America. The queen was prepared, the minister said, to give at once thirty thousand dollars for the school, and twenty or thirty thousand dollars a year for the running expenses.
Mr. Underwood drew up the first plans and made estimates, which were sent for her majesty’s criticism and approval. These were again referred to Mr. Underwood, the final plans were being prepared, and only two weeks before they were to be sent for the queen’s approval the great blow fell which put an end to all her beneficent and enlightened schemes for the advancement of her people.
Before proceeding further I must go back a few years and recall one or two events which occurred before my arrival, in 1884, in order that my readers may understand more clearly some of the events which are to be related in the next two or three chapters.
In that year the progressive or reform party in Korean politics was led by a man called Kim Ok Kiun, but they were continually foiled in all their attempts towards advance and reform by the conservatives, and at length received reliable information (so they claimed) that a plan had been formed to murder all their prominent leaders at midnight, on December the fourth. On this evening a banquet was to be given in honor of the opening of the Korean post-office, and the progressives resolved to forestall the plans of their opponents, and just before the dinner they cut down Min Yung Ik, the queen’s cousin, and the most influential man in the kingdom. He would have died had it not been for the prompt assistance given by Dr. Allen, then of our mission. The other conservative leaders were then ordered to the palace, as they supposed, by royal command, but were there (five of them) assassinated by the progressive party, who, headed by Kim Ok Kiun, then seized the palace. The post-office was burned on the same night, and with it the new stamps which had been used only once.
The Japanese minister and other foreign officials were now invited to the palace, which invitation was accepted only by the former, who brought one hundred and forty soldiers. Here the Japanese and the progressive party were attacked by three thousand Koreans and between two and three thousand Chinese. As the event grew more than doubtful, the king was allowed to go over to the other party, in the belief that if he was released the fighting would cease. Although this was not the case, the little party of Japanese fired a mine, dispersed a large number of the allies, and then forming a square, with the progressive leaders and the Japanese minister in the center, fought their way through the enemy, and the hostile streets, first to the Japanese legation, and after that to the river, with the loss of only five men. After much difficulty in obtaining boats, they crossed the river, made their way to Chemulpo, and from there escaped safely to Japan.
The picturesque palace, with the remarkably beautiful park which surrounds it, was not occupied again by the queen. Her majesty averred that it was impossible to sleep there at night for the mournful wailing of the voices of her murdered friends, which she heard continually crying, “Why was I killed, why was I killed?” So now the wind whistles and moans through the deserted rooms, grass and weeds push their way through the crevices of the beautiful marble steps, green mould grows thick on the once lovely lotus pond, and the charming little summer pavilions are falling to ruins, while snakes and lizards slide about the stone seats. The wide reaches of lawn are overgrown with long grass, and tigers and leopards are said to make their lairs in the noble woods and grottoes. The gateways fashioned in various charming designs to form frames as it were for the beautiful vistas beyond, are choked with a wild overgrowth of vines and weeds. Fancy has not to look far, or listen long, to read in all this deserted and neglected beauty the story of that one night of blood and horror, and to hear in every chilled whisper of shuddering foliage the word “haunted.”
MR. CHOY CHO SI
