I am also indebted to the “Korean Repository,” and to the “Life of Dr. James Hall,” for part of the story of the events connected with his work in Pyeng Yang, both before and after the war, and for the official report of the trial of the queen’s murderers at Hiroshima. More than all, I am obliged to my husband, by whose assistance I have obtained from Koreans the particulars relating to the Emeute of 1884, the Tonghaks, the Pusaings, the Independents, and the Romanists. He has also given me many of the anecdotes of native Christian life, and as we lived it all out ourselves, this volume is as much his as mine.

Lillias H. Underwood.


CONTENTS

[CHAPTER I]
PAGE
First Arrival—First Impressions—The City of Seoul—KoreanHouses—Mission Homes—Personnel of Missionin 1888—Beginnings of Work—Difficulties in Attaining theLanguage—Korean Religions—Palace Women—First Interviewwith Palace Women—Entertainment Given in myHonor by President of Foreign Office—The Interdict—ConfidenceExhibited by Government in Protestant Missionaries—The“Baby Riots”—Babies Reported to Have Been Eatenat Foreign Legations—Restoring Confidence—The Signal—FirstInvitation to Palace1
[CHAPTER II]
The Palaces—The Stone Dogs—The Fire God’s Defeat—TheSummer Pleasure House—Royal Reception Hall—CourtDress of Noblemen—First Impression of the King—Appearanceof the Queen—The Queen’s Troubles—TheQueen’s Coup d’État—The Verb Endings—The Queen’sGenerosity—Stone Fight—Gifts—The Quaga—Poukhan—ItsImpregnability—Picturesque Surroundings of Seoul—PioneerWork—Progress of Work—The Queen’s WeddingGift—Our Wedding—Opposition to my Going to the Interior—MyChair—The Chair Coolies20
[CHAPTER III]
We Start on our Wedding Journey—Songdo—Guards atour Gates—Crossing the Tai-tong—Difficulties in Finding anInn—Korean Launderings—An Old Man Seeks to be Rid ofSin—Mob at an Inn—A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door—Fightin the Inn Yard—Pat Defies the Crowd—Convenienceof Top-Knots—A Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us—The“Captain” to the Rescue—Pack-ponies—We Lay a DeepScheme—Torch Bearers—A Mountain Hamlet—TigerTraps—Tigers—A Band of Thirty Conspire to Attack us—GunsUsed by Native Hunters—A Tiger Story38
[CHAPTER IV]
Leaving Kangai—We Choose a Short Cut—Much Goitrein the Mountains—A Deserted Village—The Jericho Road—Weare Attacked by Robbers—A Struggle in the Inn Yard—Oddstoo Great—Our Attendants are Seized and CarriedOff—The Kind Inn-Keeper—Inopportune Patients—A Racefor Life—A City of Refuge—A Beautiful Custom—Safe atLast—The Magistrate Turns Out to be an Old Friend—TheCharge to the Hunters60
[CHAPTER V]
Our Stay in Wewon—We Give a Dinner—Our Guests—MagistratesPropose that we Travel with a Chain-Gang—OurTrip Down the Yalu—The Rapids—Contrast BetweenKorean and Chinese Shores—We Enter Weju—The DrunkenMagistrate—Presents and Punishments—Unpleasant Experienceswith Insincere People—Rice Christians—The SchemingColporter—The Men Baptized in Weju—The Lost Passport—AnotherAudience at the Palace—Queen’s Dress andOrnaments—Korean Summer House—The Pocket Dictionary—OurHomes77
[CHAPTER VI]
An Audience at the Palace—Dancing Girls—EntertainmentGiven after the Audience—Printing the Dictionary andGrammar—A Korean in Japan—Fasting to Feast—Death ofMr. Davies—Dr. Heron’s Sickness—Mrs. Heron’s MidnightRide—Dr. Heron’s Death—Difficulty in Getting a CemeteryConcession—Forced Return to America—Compensations—Chemulpoin Summer—The “Term Question” in China,Korea and Japan—Difficulties in the Work93
[CHAPTER VII]
The Mission in 1893—“The Shelter”—Opening of JapaneseWar—Seoul Populace Panic Stricken—Dr. and Mrs. Hall inPyeng Yang—Heroic Conduct of Native Christians—Conditionof Pyeng Yang after the War—Dr. Hall’s Death—Preachingthe Gospel at the Palace—The Queen Seeks toStrengthen Friendly Relations with Europeans—HerMajesty’s Generosity—A Little Child at the Palace—TheSlaves of the Ring—A Christmas Tree at the Palace—TheQueen’s Beneficent Plans—The Post-office Emeute of 1884—AHaunted Palace—The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun106
[CHAPTER VIII]
Mr. McKenzie—The First Church Built by Natives—Mr.McKenzie’s Sickness—His Death—Warning to New Missionaries—TheTonghaks—Mr. Underwood’s Trip to Sorai inSummer—Native Churches—Our Use of Helpers—Christiansin Seoul Build their Own Church—Epidemic of Cholera—UnhygienicPractices—Unsanitary Condition of City123
[CHAPTER IX]
Difficulty of Enforcing Quarantine Regulations—GreedyOfficials “Eat” Relief Funds—Americans Stand Alone toFace the Foe—The Emergency Cholera Hospital—The InspectionOfficers—We Decide to Use the “Shelter”—APathetic Case—The Jesus Man—Gratitude of the Koreans—TheNew Church—The Murder of the Queen—Testimony ofForeigners—The Official Report136
[CHAPTER X]
The Palace after the Murder—Panic—Attitude of ForeignLegations—The King’s Life in Hourly Danger—NobleRefugees—Americans on Guard—Mistakes of the New Government—ObjectionableSumptuary Laws—A Plan to Rescuethe King—One Night at the Palace—Forcing an Entrance—OurLittle Drama—Escape of General Yun153
[CHAPTER XI]
Customs Centering around the Top-Knot—ChristiansSacrificing Their Top-Knots—A Cruel Blow—Beginning ofChristian Work in Koksan—A Pathetic Appeal—People BaptizeThemselves—Hard-Hearted Cho—The King’s Escape—PeopleRally Round Him—Two Americans in the Interior—Inthe Midst of a Mob—Mob Fury—Korea in the Arms ofRussia—Celebrating the King’s Birthday—Patriotic Hymns—Lord’sPrayer in Korean167
[CHAPTER XII]
A Korean Christian Starts Work in Haing Ju—ChangedLives of Believers—A Reformed Saloon-Keeper—The Conversionof a Sorceress—Best of Friends—A Pleasant Nighton the Water—Evidence of Christian Living—Our Visit inSorai—A Korean Woman’s Work—How a King Acts atTimes—Applicants for Baptism—Two Tonghaks—In a Straitbetwixt Two—Midnight Alarms—Miss Jacobson’s Death183
[CHAPTER XIII]
Our Mission to Japan—Spies—One Korean Summer—TheQueen’s Funeral—The Procession—The Burial byStarlight—The Independents—The Pusaings—The IndependentsCrushed201
[CHAPTER XIV]
Itineration Incidents—Kaiwha—Christian Evidences—BuyingChristian Books instead of an Office—Seed Sowing—Moxa’sBoy in the Well—Kugungers Again—Pung Chung—PyengYang—The Needs of the Women216
[CHAPTER XV]
Another Itineration—Christians in Eul Yul—A Ride in anOx-Cart—Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen—Ox-Carts andMountain Roads—The Island of White Wing—A MidnightMeeting—Thanksgiving Day in Sorai—The Circular Orders—NewTestament Finished—All in the Day’s Work—TheKorean Noble—Meetings of the Nobility237
[CHAPTER XVI]
Furloughs—Chong Dong Church—Romanists in WhangHai—Missionaries to the Rescue—Romanists Annoy and Hinderthe Judge—Results—Interview between Governor andPriest—The Inspector’s Report—Women’s Work in Hai Ju—Deathof Mr. and Mrs. Johnson and Mrs. Miller254
[CHAPTER XVII]
Historical Review—Korean Characteristics—Football betweenJapan, China and Russia—Ill-advised Movements—Unrestand Excitement—Korea Allied to Japan—Japanese inKorea—Po an Whai—Kaiwha—Railroad Extension—JapaneseProtectorate—Petition to President Roosevelt—Removalof American Legation—Education in Korea—RighteousArmy—True Civilization272
[CHAPTER XVIII]
Present Status of Missions—Wonderful Progress—Educationfor Girls—Medical Missions—Denominational Comity—ChristianitySpreading—Individuals at Work—ChristianHeroes—Character of Korean Christians—How the WorkGrows—Christian Influence—Training Classes—Circuit Work—Statistics—RapidExtension—Evangelistic Work—Joy andTriumph—The Nation being Evangelized300
[CHAPTER XIX]
Pentecostal Blessing—Special Meetings—Prayer Answered—Confessionof Sin—Revival in Schools—Great Meetings—BibleStudy—Effects of Blessings—Transforming Power—HolySpirit Revival—Comparative Statement of Growth—Featuresof the Great Work—Union of Christians in Korea335

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[SENTINEL GATE AT PALACE]Frontispiece
[CITY OF SEOUL]Oppositepage1
[MAIN ENTRANCE TO PALACE]10
[KOREAN OFFICIAL IN CHAIR]16
[KOREAN STONE DOG IN FRONT OF PALACE GATES]20
[THE KING OF KOREA]24
[THE GREAT MARKET AT CHEENJU]32
[SURROUNDINGS OF SEOUL]32
[A STREET CROWD]36
[TAI-TONG RIVER]44
[FERRY BOAT]44
[METHOD OF IRONING]48
[PRINCE YU CHAI SOON, COUSIN OF KING]60
[HIGH KOREAN OFFICIAL, KIM YAN SIK]60
[CARRIER OX]64
[THE OX-CART OR TALGOOGY]64
[A KOREAN VILLAGE]68
[A BUTCHER SHOP]82
[BASKET SHOP]82
[PLEASURE HOUSE]90
[GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN]98
[HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN]104
[DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL]112
[MR. CHAY CHO SI]120
[ELDER YANG AND FAMILY]120
[PARTY STARTING OUT IN MORNING FROM THATCHED INN]124
[CHURCH AT SORAI]124
[THE THREE STAGES OF MAN IN KOREA]128
[THE ROUND GATE, SEOUL]146
[A KOREAN TOP-KNOT]166
[RUSSIAN LEGATION HOUSE]172
[INDEPENDENCE ARCH]172
[KOREAN WOMEN AT WORK]188
[SCHOOL BOYS]192
[GIRLS SEWING AND WRITING WITH NATIVE TEACHER]192
[KOREAN STREET]198
[HORSES IN AN INN YARD]198
[CANDY BOY]218
[ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY]234
[MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY]242
[CARRIERS WITH JIKAYS]258
[WOMAN WITH BUNDLE OF WASHING ON HER HEAD]258