Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots; Or, Life in Korea

by Lillias H. Underwood

We found the mountains more beautiful, if possible, than ever. It was October, and hills that in the previous spring were rosy with rhododendrons and peach blossoms, were now scarlet, gold and purple with the magnificence of autumn foliage, asters and golden-rod. There was displayed on all sides some of the most brilliant coloring I ever saw. There were quantities of bitter-sweet wreathing all over trees and rocks, berries of many varieties, and bushes reminding me of that which Moses saw in Horeb, burning but not consumed. And though in a different way, still I too felt that the ground was holy with the unseen but felt presence, and that it would be well to remove one’s worldly shoes, which figuratively I did.

A few days later we crossed a mountain pass at over two thousand feet elevation, where we found the scenery more and more beautiful and wild. The gallant and unwearied “Captain” almost carried the rheumatic partner of his travels up the last steep ascent. The alternative was to sit in a chair and trust one’s self to a couple of tired coolies, who might stumble and dash one to atoms; or with chipangi (alpenstock) in hand, slowly drag one’s self up and then down over the rocks and steep slippery road. Arriving at the foot on the other side, we were once again in dear Sorai, where a good hot floor soon took out all the pain and weariness.

It had been decided that from Sorai we were to visit a certain island called Pang Yeng, or “White Wing,” where quite a number of people were believing through the teaching of some of the natives. The story is worth telling. A man, who had been banished to this island for a political offense, had received a Christian book from his nephew, a Methodist, just before his departure. The young man told his uncle that this religion was the basis of all civil liberty and civilization, so that the banished man in his loneliness proceeded to read it, and to publish and teach its doctrines among the islanders. He had been informed that on the opposite shore at Sorai lived people who could further explain the book and its doctrines, so one of the natives, the oldest and most honorable in the village, made a trip to Sorai, and begged Elder Saw to return with him and teach them.

They were lamentably ignorant, and while believing in Jesus were still carrying on heathen worship; they were as blind people only partly restored, who saw men as trees walking. Saw was not able to go at once, but after some time, when he visited them, he found the whole village assembled with all preparations made for offering their heathen sacrifices. He talked to them very earnestly and faithfully, and they then at once gave up all their idolatrous worship, and in a body promised only to serve the one true God.

The elder could not, however, remain long, and several months later, when Mrs. Kim, the indefatigable voluntary evangelist, visited them, she found that many of them seemed to have fallen back almost completely into old practices and beliefs. At first no one would receive her in their homes, but she talked to the women outside the houses so sweetly and winningly, that they at length invited her in, and gathered around her to listen. A great change was wrought through her teaching.

We made the trip in a little Korean sailing junk, which was rather small and uncomfortable for bad weather, but not at all out of the way on such a day as that on which we started, with blue sky above, blue and sparkling water below, and charming islands studding the sea like jewels.

We found that White Wing measured about twenty miles round the coast line and was nine miles long, with a capital and several hamlets. It is extremely beautiful and fertile, well fortified by bold picturesque cliffs along the coast, with delightful valleys and gently rolling country snugly nestled behind them. The people are all farmers, living in the simplest and most primitive way. Money is rarely seen, there is indeed no need for it, with no fairs or stores. Their wants are few, they raise what they need for food, clothing, warmth and light on their little farms, bartering among each other to supply such simple articles as their own labor has not provided.

All appeared to have plenty of rice and firewood, and to be quite content. Drunkenness and dishonesty are almost unknown. The magistrate told us they rarely needed even the slightest punishment, but were as they seemed to us, a gentle, kindly, simple, honest farmer and fisher folk.

We found a small church built on the hillside, and a little company of believers, who were waiting for examination and baptism. Although very ignorant, they were most anxious to be taught, and Mrs. Kim, who had gone with me from Sorai, and I were kept busy instructing the women. Like the women everywhere in Korea, they especially enjoyed the hymns, and were most eager to learn them. The words were comparatively easy, but the tunes were quite another matter. We realized the advantage in their learning them, both as a means of fixing divine truth and publishing it to others.

We were to leave very early in the morning to catch the tide, and the night before we had a farewell service in the little church. When this was over, and good-byes said, I went to the tiny room to pack our belongings, and Mr. Underwood to one of the Christian houses to give last directions and counsel with the leaders. About ten o’clock Mrs. Kim came to my door with one of the women, asking very humbly if I would go to one of their homes and teach them a little more this one last time, though it was late. “We are so ignorant and have none to guide and teach us,” said they pathetically. Of course I was delighted to go, and followed them to a farmer’s thatched cottage. It was one of the poorest and rudest of the native homes; in one corner a farm hand was lying asleep, in another a tiny wick burning in a saucer of oil was the only light in the room. We sat down under this, and the poor, rough, hard-working women clustered round us as closely as possible. Their faces and hands bore the marks of care, toil, hard lives and few joys, but they were lighted with a glorious hope which transformed them, and this with the awakening desire for knowledge had banished the look of wooden stolidity, which so many Korean women wear.