Carefully bring the ragged edges together and baste the tear as nearly as possible in its original position; then, if it is delicate muslin or dress material to be mended, use ravellings of the same instead of thread to darn with, and weave it in and out across the edges of the rent, as in Fig. 301; if the darn needs strengthening, baste a piece of the same material under the rent before darning, and catch down the edges of the piece on the under side of the goods. In mending broadcloth or like material, darn it on the wrong side, and when the darn is finished, ruff up the nap with the point of the needle at the edges of the tear on the right side to cover the stitches; then dampen the darn, and after laying a thin clean cloth over it, press with a moderately hot flat-iron; this should make the darn almost, if not quite, imperceptible.
How to Patch.
If possible cut the piece intended as a patch of the same goods as the garment to be mended, and if there is a pattern be careful to so cut and place the patch that it will match exactly; baste and hem down the patch on the right side of the worn part of the garment; then cut out the old material on the wrong side, leaving enough edge to form a firm hem; sew this to the patch, taking care that the stitches do not show on the right side.
How to Sew on a Button.
Should much strain come on the button, as in little children’s clothes, first hem down a small double piece of muslin, on the wrong side of the garment, at the exact spot where the button is to be placed, and with strong thread take a stitch on the right side; then sew the button through about four times, being careful not to let the stitches spread on the wrong side; wind the thread three times around the shank of the button formed by the stitches, drawing the thread a little tight, pass the needle through and fasten the thread neatly on the wrong side; the extra piece of muslin can be omitted when not needed.
To Mend a Kid Glove.
If the glove is merely ripped, and there is no strain on the portion to be mended, sew the two edges together over and over on the right side with fine thread or sewing-silk matching in color the glove to be mended; if, however, there is liability of its tearing out again, strengthen the edges by first working a button-hole stitch on each; then sew them together over and over, passing the needle in and out of the loops of the button-hole stitch, so forming a narrow net-work of thread between the two pieces of kid. Should the glove need a patch, carefully cut a piece of kid out of the best part of an old kid glove corresponding in color to the one needing repairs; make the patch exactly the shape and size of the hole, and button-hole stitch all around the edge of the hole and the edge of the patch; then sew in the patch over and over, catching together the loops of the button-hole stitches; this makes the mending firm, neat, and strong.
Fancy Stitches.
These are in many varieties of style; one of the most useful is known as the