Fig. 23.
Cross your diagonals at the halving and with long wire nails, driven from the outside of the frame, nail them in place, Fig. 25. Now fit the largest braces on the front and back of each upright with edges resting on the floor as in Fig. 26, and screw them on with screws near the top as shown by C and D, Fig. 26. Have the outside edges of the braces on a line with the outside
Fig. 24. edges of the uprights; this will leave a space of about an inch on the inside of the uprights. The braces will hold the frame in an upright position, but in order to support any weight it must be further strengthened by adding a platform to which the braces may be screwed. Make the platform of a size to fit inside the uprights and reach across from end to end of the braces. Two
Fig. 25. or more boards will be required to give sufficient width, and it will be necessary to stay them by putting on three cleats across the under side, as in Fig. 27. These cleats must be of equal width and thickness and, as in all cleats, the grain of the wood must run lengthwise. Cut notches at each end, as shown in the diagram, to fit the projecting uprights, then fit the platform into the frame, and screw the braces on to its edges, Fig. 28. You have now a firm foundation and may add your shelves. The widest shelves are to go across the frame on either side on a line with the top of the lower cross-piece, the narrower
Fig. 26. shelves on a line with the top of the middle cross-piece. Fasten these in place with screws at the lower end of each brace, and with hooks in the uprights, and screw-eyes at the top of the shelves, as in the shelves for the dressing-stand, Fig. 14.
Instead of four you now have two very broad shelves, running directly
