During the night we continued our voyage near the Mexican coast, and on the morning of the 10th entered the harbour of Acapulco. In the crowded market place we saw a strange medley of races, Indians, Negroes, Ladinos, Mestizos, and Pintos who afforded ample occupation for the artistic talents of Baron Ransonnet. The Indians were of moderate stature and of a dark swarthy colour, their faces were broad, and their hair was long, heavy and very black. All had peculiarly restless eyes. We were interested in looking at the Pintos, a numerous race of Indians inhabiting the hills of this part of Mexico, who are given that name in consequence of the coloured spots on their skin. Some of them were merely spotted, others had their feet or hands almost white and of a disagreeable livid tint. In several, the dark red skin of the face was completely covered with white round spots. These spots always begin as blue marks and develop into sores, which afterwards heal into these indelible white scars. The Indians say that this kind of leprosy is inherited. In all other respects they were perfectly healthy.
At midnight on the 13th, we arrived off San José de Guatemala. Captain Lapidge lowered a boat and put us on board the nearest vessel, which we afterwards found to be a North German barque called the Gelert. Although the sea was smooth she was rolling heavily. The Golden City also gave some deep lurches, and it was difficult to get in or out of the boat. Baron Ransonnet left us with the intention of proceeding to Panama. Finally Dr. Scherzer, Baron Herbert, and myself, made the best of our position and slept—or endeavoured to sleep—for the rest of the night upon the deck of the Gelert.
The view from the barque when the sun rose above the horizon, was of a character not to be forgotten. The great range of volcanoes which, commencing in the North in Alaska, runs like a backbone near the Pacific Coast through the entire length of the American continent to the southern limits of Patagonia, is here very remarkable. The great mountains of Agua and Fuego, rising respectively over twelve and thirteen thousand feet above the sea, were immediately opposite to us. The volcano of Pacaya was on the right, and, on the left, were the distant volcanoes near the Lake of Atitlan.
Our landing was accomplished without difficulty, and in the forenoon we left San José for the capital in an open carriage, with three good horses harnessed abreast. The road ran in a straight line through the forest which covered the low tropical plain, extending for a distance of forty miles from the sea to the base of the hills. Occasionally we passed the huts occupied by the mixed race descended from African negroes and Indians, who have been given the name of Zambos.
It would be difficult to account for the existence of a race of African descent, dwelling near the Western coasts of the Pacific, if we did not possess the statements of the Spanish historians, and their explanation of the circumstances which necessitated the introduction of negroes for the purpose of working in the mines or plantations, and to take the place of the Indians who died in great numbers in consequence of the severity of their treatment by the conquerors. The features of these Zambos, resembled those of the aboriginal race of Indians, but the hair was like that of the negroes on the West coast of Africa.
At the village of Masagua, we saw several Indians who had come down from the hills. They were men of unusually diminutive stature, all of them being under five feet in height, but they were well-formed, muscular and active. The town of Escuintla was reached after sunset, and towards midnight I went to the Plaza to see the numerous groups of Indians, who were resting there for the night on their way to a church festival that was going to be held several days’ journey eastwards. The moonlight was extraordinarily brilliant, and the Indians evidently considered that its influence was dangerous, for they carefully avoided it, and sheltered themselves amongst the trees, or within the deep shadows cast by the walls of the church. The platform in front of the beautiful façade of that building, was surrounded by colonnades of palm trees. Beyond, but seemingly close at hand, were the gigantic forms of the twin volcanoes of Water and Fire.
Before daybreak we arrived at the village of Amatitlan, situated on the borders of the lake of that name near the base of the volcano of Pacaya, and in the morning we saw before us the plateau upon which stands the city of Guatemala, five thousand feet above the sea. Gradually we found that we were accompanied by Indians belonging to the various villages near the road, who were on their way to the market place, carrying on their backs heavy loads of wood, crockery and vegetables.
As we approached the gates of the city, our horses increased their pace, and the scene became very animated. Hundreds of Indians joined us from all directions, and ran by the sides of our carriage. The bells of the numerous churches were ringing for prayers. We passed the castle, the market place crowded with Indian women selling their wares, and the cathedral. Priests and sisters of mercy were hurrying along the streets; groups of soldiers carrying old-fashioned muskets, were lounging near their barracks. Our horses became excited and broke into a gallop, and finally, with great noise and speed, we drove up to the doors of the Hotel Aleman, and were soon installed in comfortable rooms opening into the central court or patio, which forms such an agreeable feature in all well-arranged Spanish inns.
Soon after our arrival Colonel Miguel Garcia y Granados, one of the Government officials, called upon Dr. Scherzer and gave us a vivid report of the political condition of the Republic. The Indians of the provinces between Guatemala and the Mexican frontier were in rebellion. A large force of them under the leadership of an Indian, named Serapio Cruz, were marching towards the city, and a battle between them and the Government troops was imminent. He also mentioned some interesting facts with respect to the late President Carrera. Carrera was a remarkable instance of native capacity. He was an uneducated Indian of obscure birth who, by sheer force of character, energy, and courage, was, at an early age, placed at the head of large bodies of Indians during the various revolutionary outbreaks which succeeded the declaration of Independence from Spain. Finally he became President of the Republic and governed the people with such obstinate determination and firmness of will that, in a few years, he was able to place the whole country under a steady system of control. In doing this he was assisted by the fact of being an Indian and having, consequently, great personal influence over the natives. He also received the support of the priests for, like all Indians, he was extremely fanatical.
Colonel Garcia told us that Carrera always had on his writing table a toy representing Louis Philippe with his hat in his hand. This toy had a rounded base and was so weighted that, when it was touched, it rolled backwards and forwards, and would thus represent Louis Philippe constantly bowing hat in hand. Carrera when engaged at his official work would frequently make the toy move, and then would say to those that stood near him “It was in that way, by too much bowing, that Louis Philippe lost his throne, I shall take care that I do not make the same mistake.” Carrera was not only supported by the priests, but also by the Spaniards, who knew that he alone could keep the Indians in subjection. Latterly he spoke much of the Indian chief Cruz, and said that he was the only man in the State who was to be feared.