There was a difficulty in obtaining a good ambling mule, without which long rides over a rugged country would be necessarily fatiguing. Fortunately the Duke de Licignano, who was residing in Guatemala, was willing to part with one of his trained mules, and it was with great satisfaction that I saw this well-bred animal brought into the courtyard of the inn, and placed under the care of my guide.
I received from the Government an official passport or letter of recommendation to the Corregidors under their jurisdiction, which I hoped would be of service as far as the frontier.
Mexico was reported to be temporarily in a lawless condition, but I expected to find upon my arrival within its boundaries, that the authority of the republic was sufficiently established to enable me to proceed without any serious obstacles to the ruins of Palenque.
CHAPTER X.
Mixco.—La Antigua Guatemala.—Volcanoes of Fire and Water.—Comolapa.—Ancient Indian Ruins of Patinamit.—Kachiquel Indians.—A Dominican Priest.—Barrancas.—Las Godinas.—Panajachel.—Human Sacrifices to the Lakes and Volcanoes.—Lake Atitlan.—Sololá.—Orchids.—San Tomas.—Quiché Indians.
At daybreak on the thirtieth day of January, my Indian guide Anastasio, reported that the mules were ready. He had filled the saddle bags with a good supply of provisions, together with a store of native chocolate, and had otherwise made due arrangements for the mules in the event of any mischance happening to them. We then proceeded on our way to the town of La Antigua Guatemala. Baron Herbert came with us for several miles, and Mr. Hague proposed to accompany me for a day’s journey and see me safely started on my road.
When we came near the Indian mounds, I halted for a short time to take a sketch of them from some rising ground whence a good view could be obtained. On the left rose the Volcan de Agua. In the distance could be seen the village of Mixco, and on the right were the Sierras, stretching far away towards the North, looking well defined in the clear atmosphere of a bright and sunny morning.
At Mixco we stopped for breakfast, and were joined by the cura of the parish, who was an agreeable and well-informed man. Mixco is especially interesting to Englishmen on account of its having been the curacy of our fellow countryman, Thomas Gage.[56] He was appointed there in December, 1629, and had the charge of this and some adjacent parishes for about seven years. He then left Guatemala and returned to England. Beyond the village we obtained a view of the Lake Amatitlan. We then passed San Lucas, and reached La Antigua Guatemala in the afternoon.
Upon our arrival we called upon Padre Martinez, and asked him to show us the ancient cathedral. It was in a ruined condition, and at the time of our visit the nave and aisles were occupied by cattle. In the centre of the roof we observed the emblem of the imperial arms of Austria, the double-headed eagle, which fixed the date of the erection of the building as being in the reign of the Emperor Charles V. There still remained within the shrines many fine wood carvings, and it could be seen that the ornamentation of the interior must have been in accordance with the artistic abilities of the Spanish architects of that period. After leaving this fine example of one of the earliest churches in Central America, we looked at the ruins of the palace and government buildings. It was evident that the ancient Guatemala, before it was destroyed by earthquakes, must have well deserved its reputation of being, next to Mexico, the most flourishing city in the New World.
Close at hand and dominating the ruins, are the lofty twin volcanoes of Agua and Fuego (Water and Fire). The former in 1541, caused the destruction of the first town established by the Spaniards, which is now called La Vieja Guatemala. The manner in which that capital was overwhelmed and destroyed, was so exceptional, that it is desirable that the events which then occurred should be brought into consideration.