The Padre had found it impossible to feel in any degree assured, that he understood the private feelings or political views of these Indians. He considered them to be apparently indifferent to what was passing around them, and yet capable of being aroused in a very sudden manner, and of acting together for some common purpose. Their enthusiasm for anything relating to their superstitious devotion to the images was however very evident. One of the things which he thought to be inexplicable, was their extraordinary veneration for the rite of baptism. They seemed to attach some peculiar importance to this ceremony, although the Padre did not think that what was in their minds had any reference to the Church tenets. In all matters connected with religion, the Indians had become quite independent. They came from afar to make offerings of blossoms and leaves, lighted candles before the altars of those saints they wished to honour, and then silently returned to their huts.
In the morning, before leaving San Tomas, I was interested in observing in the crowded Plaza, some of the characteristics of this once powerful Indian race. The men were of middle size, strongly built and of a swarthy copper colour. Their noses were large and remarkably broad at the base. Their eyes were dark and wild. In features many of them resembled the Sioux. Their voices were loud and the language disagreeably rough. The women had soft voices and were very gentle in their manners. They reminded me of the Coptic women of Lower Egypt, in their method of carrying their pitchers of water. There was the same graceful attitude, and slow and steady walk. What perhaps, added to some extent to the resemblance was the long blue dress, and the little turban-shaped mat placed on the head to receive the pressure of the weight.
CHAPTER XI.
Barrancas.—Santa Cruz del Quiché.—Padre Andres Guicola.—Ruins of Utatlan.—Report of Don Garcia de Palacio upon human sacrifices to the gods in Central America, Statement of Bernal Diaz, about the sacrifices in Mexico.—Burning of the Quiché Caciques at Utatlan.—Worship of idols by the Quichés.—Sierras.—Gueguetenango.
The journey from San Tomas to Santa Cruz del Quiché was made unexpectedly fatiguing, in consequence of the difficulties placed across our track by the numerous barrancas which traversed the plains. Several of these ravines were of considerable depth, and their slopes were abrupt. It was satisfactory to realize that we were travelling in the dry season, and the footing for the mules was therefore fairly secure.
Upon our arrival at the village, I rode onwards to the convent steps where I was met by Padre Andres Guicola, who was unfeignedly delighted to see me. He said that he was glad to welcome me, and talk to somebody who was not an Indian, and was particularly pleased to hear that I was an Englishman, for he was a Biscayan, and had been born and bred near San Sebastian, and had listened to the traditions concerning the great Duke of Wellington, and memories, on the part of the ladies, of the brave officers of his army. It added much to the pleasure he felt in receiving me, to know that his guest was the son of one of those officers, who had not only been present at the operations in Biscay and on the French frontier, but was also severely wounded at Albuera, a battle held in great respect by all patriotic Spaniards.
Quiché Indian.
(holding the office of alguazil.)
His isolation amongst these secluded mountains, must have been repugnant to the nature of this kind hearted and genial padre. He told me that he had been living in his parish twenty-one years, having been appointed in 1849, and during that long time regularly fulfilled his duties amongst his Indians. He declared, in answer to some questions that I asked with reference to the adjacent ruins of Utatlan, that he knew but little except from what he had read in the history of Juarros. The friars of the convent wrote some observations about them, and also possessed some documents relating to the ancient customs of the Quichés, but these were destroyed during the revolution of 1829, when the churches and convents were sacked. Consequently no records existed.
The view from the Convent was magnificent, commanding towards the north-west the ranges of the Cordilleras, and towards the south-west the hills near Quezaltenango. The lofty plateau upon which it stood, was nearly seven thousand feet above the sea. It is upon three sides severed from the outer world by a steep barranca which almost surrounds it. The ruins of Utatlan, the ancient capital of the Quichés, were about one mile distant, and were evidently placed in such a manner as to take the greatest advantage of this ravine, in order to form a stronghold, which according to the conditions of Indian warfare must have been practically impregnable.