CHAPTER XIV.
An Indian steam bath.—Tumbalá.—Sierras and Forests.—San Pedro.—Desertion of guide.—Alguazils.—Construction of Indian huts.—Habits of Indians.—Cargadores.—Crossing a River.—Forests beyond San Pedro.—Powers of endurance of Indians.—Arrival at San Domingo del Palenque.
The base of the sierra whose summit we had to reach before night, was about two leagues from Yajalon. After having ridden that distance I expected to see some indications of Tumbalá, but not being able to make out anything, I asked Villafranca where it was. He pointed upwards towards the sky, and said “En el núbe, (in the cloud) Señor.” In effect it was just possible to see the church amongst the clouds which were sweeping over the highest ridge of the Cordilleras.
The greater part of the day was passed in making the ascent, which was a steep and continuous rise for over three leagues. In the afternoon, when we had attained to a considerable height, we left below us the bright and sunny daylight, and entered into the region of cloudland. The weather became cold and gloomy, and as we approached Tumbalá it was scarcely possible to see our way for we were moving in a dark fog. Near the outskirts of the hamlet we passed close to a structure of an unusual shape, not unlike an oven. I was afterwards informed that it was used by Indians in time of sickness and was practically a steam bath. The methods of using it were similar to those adopted by many of the tribes in North America. The patient finds inside a supply of water to generate steam. Heated stones are passed in from outside and these he drops into the water. This system is said to be efficacious in the disorders to which men living amongst the Cordilleras are subject, and which are probably caused by exposure to sudden changes of temperature. It was strange to see amongst these remote sierras a practice which seemed to establish the fact that there were links connecting these Mexican Indians with the Dakotas in North America, the natives of Hawaii, and the Maoris in the distant islands of New Zealand.
When we arrived at the walls of the convent it was evident that there was a general state of commotion without and within. Some event had happened, the nature of which I was unable to ascertain. The precincts were crowded with numerous groups of Indians and Ladinos. The priest was living in a large shed. The quadrangle was apparently used as a farmyard and was filled with cattle, horses, mules, turkeys and fowls, all wandering about at their own free will, and causing an indescribable disturbance. The mists were so thick that it was quite impossible to make anything out clearly.
Inside the shed the state of affairs was equally confusing. Men, women and children were busily engaged in preparing to pass the night under the protection of the roof, and were choosing their sleeping places. As it was necessary to find room without delay, I told Villafranca to hang my hammock to the rafters as near to the fire as possible. We then went out and tethered the mule upon a level open space beyond, which we thought to be convenient for the purpose, but the clouds were so dense that we could not see what we were doing. After some further trouble, supplies of forage and water were obtained, and placed within the mule’s reach. We then returned to the shed within which the priest was endeavouring to find suitable quarters for his numerous visitors.
Later in the evening we were joined by a young couple who had just been married, and wanted shelter. It happened that there was an Indian bedstead available and this together with two extemporized pillows was placed at their disposal. When it became night, we sat round the fire and cooked our suppers, and then sleeping mats were unrolled and spread upon the ground. The Cura placed his mat near the fire, beneath my hammock. Amongst the crowd were several young mothers who had their infants with them. These little creatures were duly attended to and their wants supplied. The mothers then proceeded to roll them up tightly in swaddling clothes until only their heads were visible. They were afterwards placed in a row against the wall, where they looked like diminutive Egyptian mummies, their large round eyes staring at us in a most unmeaning manner. When all these various arrangements were completed the doors were closed.
What happened during the night I do not know, but upon awaking in the morning I found that I was alone and that the shed was empty. All the numerous inmates of the previous night had departed. I turned out of my hammock and joined the Cura who was walking in front of his ruined convent. He said he would accompany me for a few hundred yards to the outer edge of the sierra, to look at the world around and beneath us.
The clouds had disappeared, the sun had risen brightly above the eastern horizon, the sky was blue, the air felt pure and exhilarating, and the view was magnificent. Not only did we command range upon range of these Cordilleras, but there were also extensive views of the valleys below us. Beyond, looking northwards, were the savannahs and the tropical lowlands near Palenque; and in the far distance the sunlight was flashing upon the calm waters of the Laguna de Terminos.
Near at hand were groups of wild-looking Indians watching our movements. The Cura said he believed they belonged to the Maya race, and were allied to the tribes that occupied Yucatan. In their appearance they were like the Tzendales near Bachajon. They were strongly built men, rather low in stature, and very dark in colour; their eyes had peculiarly rounded orbits, and their long black hair was cut square over the forehead. They spoke a language which sounded very rough and abrupt. The Cura observed that the Indians dwelling amongst the mountains were daily becoming neglected, and that they were left entirely free to follow their own beliefs and customs. In consequence of there being no regular stipend for the clergy, it had become impossible to maintain a sufficient number of priests to carry out the duties. He had to superintend the parishes at Tumbalá, San Pedro, Palenque and the districts around Las Playas, near the river Usamacinta, and therefore he could not attend personally to the numerous and scattered Indians placed under his charge.