The length of this precipitous descent was a little more than five miles, and we took four hours to accomplish the distance. During that time I never saw a glimpse of the sky, although I knew that, above the trees, the sun was shining brilliantly.
In the forenoon we reached the banks of the Nopá, which ran at the base of the sierra, and halted there to rest. We then passed over the river, and pushed or cut our way through two leagues of dense forest and thick brushwood. There were also several small streams with low but steep and slippery banks that had to be crossed. Finally we reached and forded the river Michol. The worst was then over, and we emerged from the forest and saw before us a savannah where we decided to encamp. I obtained a slight shelter under the sloping roof of a little open hut, which had been left there by some passing Indians. Thus ended a most fatiguing day.
Don Pepe and his Indians arrived after sunset and encamped near us. The methods adopted by these Indians when preparing to pass the night upon an open savannah were instructive. In the first instance they placed upon the ground a quantity of broad dry leaves to protect them from the damp grass. They then dispersed, and in a few minutes the adjacent forest resounded with the noise of the blows made by their machetes. They returned bearing loads of firewood and also several strong forked branches. These they sharpened at one end and fixed into the earth near the camping place to form supports to carry the bales of tobacco. In this manner the cargo was raised about three feet, and thus they carried out the invariable rule of Indians who never leave anything upon the ground at night. They then lighted a large fire.
There were characteristics with respect to these Oaxaca Indians, which I had already observed on the previous day, but which more particularly came under my notice upon this occasion. They had gone through a long day’s work of most severe labour, and yet upon settling down for the night’s rest they neither ate any food or drank any water. My guides, who were not, like these men, trained to carry great weights for considerable distances, were also able to live upon very small quantities of food and never seemed to be tired at the end of the day’s journey.
It was the custom of each Indian before leaving his home to provide himself with a small quantity of a substance called pozole, which was prepared for him by his wife. This was usually made in the following manner. A sufficient quantity of maize was partly boiled, until the grain could be easily removed from the husks. These softened grains were then ground upon the metatl or grindstone until a thick paste was made. This was either put into a little bag or rolled up in a green leaf. This paste was the principal part of the food that was carried, but sometimes the wives gave their husbands a supply of tortillas. To make these, the grains of maize, after being slightly boiled, are put upon the metatl, and rolled out into a very thin pancake; this is taken off the stone and put upon a large leaf and made into a round shape. It is then placed upon a pan and held for a few minutes over the fire, until it is properly baked, when it becomes a tortilla. With a few of these and his scant store of pozole an Indian always considers himself to be amply provisioned until he returns to his village or secluded country hut.
My guides took their principal meal about noon. A portion of the paste was taken out of the leaf and placed upon the palm of the left hand, a small quantity of water was then mixed with it until it became slightly fluid and then it was eaten. In the evening they usually took more pozole and a tortilla, after which they would drink some water mixed with enough of the pozole to make it become the colour and consistency of thin milk. In this manner they avoided drinking pure cold water. This was the daily food of my Indians, upon which they could go long journeys carrying considerable weights, and they never appeared to be tired.[78]
The cargadores are trained from boyhood to carry heavy burdens over great distances. Don Pepe expected them to travel eight leagues a day. But when carrying lighter loads they will sometimes travel for several consecutive days at the rate of nearly forty English miles a day. When the cargo-bearers were moving in single file with their burdens, they looked like the Tamemes bearing tribute to Montezuma as represented in the ancient pictures. It is probable that these men were enduring labours similar to those that had been performed by their ancestors for centuries before the arrival of the Spaniards.
In the morning the Indians proceeded on their journey towards the coast. We followed a path leading in another direction, through open and wooded lowlands. Finally after a ride of four leagues we reached the savannah upon which is situated the village of San Domingo del Palenque.
Never have I known a moment of more keen pleasure and satisfaction, than that when José pointed out to me this beautiful spot. I had become fatigued by the hardships of the previous days, and the buoyancy of mind that was felt in getting at last into a region of life and sunshine cannot be adequately expressed.
We stopped to ask where Doctor Coller lived, and were shown the position of a low, thatched cottage, at the door of which stood the only European living in the village.[79] I was received by him with friendly welcome. My hammock was placed under the shade of the projecting thatch. The mule was set free to wander at will amongst the plains, and I was advised to take twenty-four hours complete rest. On the following forenoon I made arrangements for proceeding to the ruins, and a few Indians were sent there to open the path, and to clear the inner courts of the palace from weeds and brushwood.