Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples / Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and Uxmal

by Lindesay Brine

It may be concluded that Palenque consists of a group of mounds having buildings upon them exclusively devoted to the purposes of religion. In the year 1840, five of the mounds had temples upon their summits which were in a fair state of preservation. The survey of Captain Antonio Del Rio was made in the year 1787, and, as he was an officer of the Artillery, his Report, with respect to the general plan, and the bearings and distances of the mounds then remaining, may be accepted as being correct. He states that he visited the ruins called Casas de Piedras (stone houses) on the 5th of May, and finding that nothing could be distinctly made out in consequence of the forest, he engaged a large number of Indians from Tumbalá, who felled the trees and afterwards cleared the ground by fire, thus opening up a sufficient space to enable him to observe the true positions of the mounds and buildings. He found that they were all contained within a rectangular area, four hundred and fifty yards long and three hundred yards wide. In the centre was the mound upon which stood the largest structure. This was surrounded by other edifices, “namely: five to the northward, four to the southward, one to the south-west, and three to the eastward.”

Thus it appears that in 1787 there were thirteen mounds with buildings upon their summits, besides the large platform earthwork upon which was placed the “Palace.” In 1806, nearly twenty years afterwards, the Spanish Government ordered another survey to be made. The expedition was placed under the orders of Captain Dupaix, who had served as an officer in the Dragoons. He reported that, at that time, eleven temples were still standing. Thirty-four years later, Mr. Stephens could only discover five temples not utterly ruined. It is strange that in these short intervals of time, such changes should have happened amongst monuments of this nature. With regard to this subject, it is of consequence to notice the statements given by the local authorities who made the original discoveries which led to the survey of Del Rio. The explorations were conducted, under the orders of the Spanish authorities at Guatemala, by one of the principal inhabitants of the village of San Domingo, named Calderon, aided by the Government architect, Bernasconi. In their Report, which was made only three years before that of Del Rio, they declared that there were evidences of the ruins of numerous houses occupying a large space of land to the west of the temples. Nothing was known by my Indians upon this subject. It should, however, be observed, with respect to undiscovered ruins, that any rumours relating to what may, or may not, exist in the heart of a tropical forest, must necessarily be doubtful, for where nothing can be seen, except what may happen to be found in the direction of the path, much must be unknown.

On the slopes of the ground in front of one of the temples I saw a large and rudely carved statue, which in consequence of its form and manner of sculpture is of much importance. There is reason to believe that it was intended to represent Quetzalcoatl, an Indian god, a mythical or real personage, who, for many reasons connected with Palenque, requires to have an especial consideration given to him. It is a distinctive characteristic of this statue, that the features are essentially different from those of the Indians whose figures are to be seen upon the altars of the temples and within the courts and corridors of the monastery. These have receding foreheads and sharply defined prominent faces, quite unlike the present races in Central America, but in a marked degree resembling the tribes of the North American Indians, who had the custom of flattening the heads of their children.

The statue by my measurement, was a few inches more than eight feet in height, exclusive of the lower part of the stone, which tapered off in such a manner as to show that it had been originally placed upright and fixed in the ground. The feet stood on a base upon which was carved the hieroglyph which probably denoted the name. The forehead was low and straight. The face was completely different in type and expression, from that of any known race of Indians. The head was surmounted by a kind of high tiara. The left hand held in front of the figure a small head, in the same position as in the little figure at Ocosingo.

As, after completing the circuit of the mounds, there were still a few hours at my disposal before leaving Palenque so as to reach the village before nightfall, I decided to devote the time to the investigation of certain problems regarding the age and construction of the buildings. But in the first place, attention should be directed to the manner in which the open courts within the monastery are disposed, and access is obtained to the rooms beneath the corridors. Commencing from the east front, there are two ranges of corridors which are separated throughout their whole length by a strong wall, which receives the thrust of the two inner slopes supporting the roof. There is only one entrance or means of communication between them in the existing northern portion of the ruins. The interior width of each of these galleries is about seven feet four inches. After passing across them, the principal court is reached and the floor of the open space is seen ten feet below. A wide flight of large and well hewn stone steps leads down to the bottom, which appears to have been paved with several layers of cement. This court is twenty-eight paces wide. The rooms are entered through doorways in the sides of the inclosing walls. Opposite to the first flight of steps there are similar steps leading to a second series of corridors. Passing through these, another court is reached, and beyond is the outer gallery which runs along the western side of the building. The total width of this cross section of the monastery is approximately one hundred and seventy-six feet.

When wandering amongst these courts, and looking at the vestiges of an unknown state of civilisation, I endeavoured to form conclusions with regard to the purpose and antiquity of all that was seen. The problem is difficult to solve. It has been surmised that the temples of Palenque were erected during a period not exceeding four centuries before the Spanish conquest. This opinion was based upon what has been observed with respect to the condition of the ruins, and the freshness of portions of the colouring of the stucco. This method of estimating comparative antiquity presents some local difficulties.

The square tower was originally faced with thick cement, and then covered with washes of colour, in the same manner as the walls of the Teocallis in the Quiché city of Utatlan upon which the faded colours are still visible. If the existing outer coating was the only one that had been given it would be reasonable to infer that the age of the tower was not great. But it happens that in those places where portions of the stucco have fallen, there have been numerous applications of colour, and therefore admitting that the latest may look bright and fresh, it is not possible to estimate the periods that may have elapsed between the dates of successive layers. Although I was at first inclined to think that the building could not be ancient, yet a more careful examination left the subject indeterminate. Any conclusions which may have been thought probable on account of the state of the walls and roofs are equally uncertain. With regard to this matter it is necessary to take into consideration certain existing conditions.

Immediately behind the ruins are the slopes of the sierras which I traversed on the way from Tumbalá. They are covered with loose fragments of the limestones of which they are formed. These were the building materials used by the architects of the temples. Their small size and flat surface were suitable for the purpose, when combined with mortar, the mixing of which the Indians well understood. The walls of the monastery were made with layers of these flat stones bound together with quantities of this mortar. The outer faces were carefully arranged to receive a thick casing of cement, which was so hard and sound, that it is evident the builders must have had an accurate knowledge of the best proportions of the substances required for its composition. The cement had a smooth surface and in several places it was still perfect. The colours laid upon it are red, blue, yellow and white. They appear to have been made more or less vivid and varied in accordance with what was thought necessary to obtain good contrasts. The stucco figures and scrolls were skilfully designed, and were coloured in a manner which was harmonious and effective. The sound state of the cement where it is sheltered from the action of the rain is extraordinary. It is strange that in this tropical climate where, for half the year there are continuous and heavy rainfalls, the variations from the damp, close atmosphere in the summer to the dry season of winter should not have had a more destructive influence upon buildings, mainly composed of rubble and mortar.

In one instance, that of the tower, the astonishing growth of tropical vegetation has had the effect of preventing its fall. Thick creepers have wound themselves like strong ropes around the walls and bound them firmly together. The walls at the corners of the entrances to the courts were remarkably uninjured. The cement was intact, and this, even in positions where it might have been expected that, in a long course of time, in consequence of being partly exposed and partly sheltered, it would have broken away and fallen.