The Stately Homes of England

by Llewellynn Frederick William Jewitt; S. C. Hall

On the stately monument of the Earl at Bottesford the death of these two sons is thus alluded to:—“In 1608 he married the Lady Cecelia Hungerf’rd, daughter to the Hon’ble Knight, Sir John Tufton, by whom he had two sonnes, both which dyed in their infancy, by wicked practice and sorcerye.”

In the civil wars Belvoir Castle was taken by the Royalist party in 1642, and placed under command of Colonel Lucas. In 1645 the King himself was there. In the same year Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice were at Belvoir. Soon afterwards it was besieged by the Parliamentarians; the outworks and stables, which had been fortified, were taken by storm; the entire village of Belvoir was demolished; and on the 3rd of February, 1646, the castle, with its appurtenances, was, in pursuance of terms of capitulation, surrendered to the Parliament, who immediately appointed Captain Markham as its governor. Shortly afterwards the castle was disgarrisoned and restored to its owner, the Earl of Rutland. In 1649 the Council of State reported “their resolution for demolishing the castle; which the Earl of Rutland was content with,” and it was accordingly demolished, the Earl receiving a miserable pittance by way of compensation, and taking up his residence at Haddon Hall. About 1662 the Earl appears to have commenced the rebuilding of the castle, which was completed in 1668. In 1801 the then Duke of Rutland, father of the present duke, who had, during his minority, conceived the idea of rebuilding and extending the castle, began to carry out his design by pulling down the south and west fronts next to the court-yard, and continued rebuilding under Wyatt till 1816, by which time the south-west and south-east parts were completed, and the Grand Staircase and Picture Gallery in the north-west front were nearly finished. In that year a fire broke out in the castle, by which the north-east and north-west fronts were entirely destroyed. By that fire a large number of valuable paintings, estimated at nearly eleven thousand pounds in value, were totally destroyed. Among these were no less than nineteen by Sir Joshua Reynolds (including the “Nativity” and a number of family portraits); and many by Rubens, Vandyke, Carlo Maratti, Lely, Domenichino, Rembrandt, Velasquez, Titian, Poussin, West, and others. Fortunately, although five children of the Duke and Duchess (who themselves were at Cheveley), and all the household were sleeping in the castle, no loss of life occurred. In March, 1817, the Duke commenced rebuilding the castle, the architect being the Rev. Sir John Thoroton, of Bottesford, to whose good taste and that of the Duke and his amiable duchess, are due the fine proportions and the majestic character of the building as it now stands.

Belvoir has often been visited by royalty. James I. and Charles I. both stayed there, and in 1813, the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., and the Duke of York, spent several days there. In 1839 the Dowager Queen Adelaide remained there for nearly a week, and in 1843 our present beloved Queen Victoria, with the Prince Consort, the Queen Dowager, the Duke of Wellington, and others, visited the Duke, and remained his guests for four days. In 1866 their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales visited Belvoir, and the Prince again remained there in 1873. Other members of the royal family have also been received within its walls.

The principal apartments of the castle are, by kind permission of the Duke, shown to visitors, and the surrounding grounds are literally, as we have before said, open to all, “without let or hindrance.”

Passing up the steep ascent from near the cosy inn (on, or closely adjoining to, the site of the old priory), the visitor, if on foot, wends his way along the path among magnificent forest trees, and up a flight of stone steps to the basement story of the castle, where, in the solid masonry from which the superstructure rises, are the workshops of the artisan retainers of the family; and from hence by a rising pathway to the bastion, mounted with cannon, which gives an air of baronial importance to the place. If the visitor ride or drive, the ascent is somewhat more circuitous, but the carriage-way leads to the same point—the Grand Entrance to the Castle.

The Grand Entrance, which is shown to the spectator’s left in our general views from the north-west, opens from an advanced groined porch, into which carriages drive from one side, and out at the other, massive doors enclosing them while visitors alight. Over the doors are armorial bearings of the family and its alliances. From the porch the entrance doorway opens into the groined entrance passage, or corridor, decorated with stands of arms, banners (among which is the one borne by the present Duke of Rutland at the funeral of the Duke of Wellington), and military trophies, which leads to the Guard-room, or Great Hall of the mansion. This noble room, which has a groined ceiling, and a mosaic floor of black and white marble and Nottinghamshire freestone, bears in recesses and arcades on its walls groups of arms and armour, trophies of war, and other appropriate decorations; and in two glazed recesses a number of relics of the great Marquis of Granby, and of his brilliant military achievements, and his well-earned decorations. Besides many other objects of peculiar interest in this room are two tables made from remarkable deposits, of eleven years’ formation, in the wooden water-pipes of the Blithe Mine in Derbyshire; a model of the old castle; standards, arms, and armour from the field of Waterloo; a Chinese junk; and some good armour.

Opposite the entrance are the Grand Staircase and the Guard-room Gallery. In the windows of the latter are finely executed stained-glass figures (by Wyatt) of Robert de Todeni, William de Albini, Walter Espec, and Robert de Ros, with their armorial insignia. From the landing at the head of the Guard-room Staircase, which contains full-length portraits of Queen Anne and George Prince of Denmark, access is gained to the Grand Staircase leading to the principal apartments; the walls of the staircase itself being hung with full-length paintings of the first eight Earls of Rutland, with their armorial bearings within the archways. The ceiling is richly groined.

The Regent’s Gallery, so called from the Prince Regent (George IV.), for whose use it was fitted up on his visit to Belvoir in 1813, is one of the main features of the castle. It is a noble apartment, 128 feet long by 18 feet wide, with a central bow, formed by the central tower, of 36 feet wide. At one end is Nollekens’ fine bust of George IV., and at the other the equally fine bust of the late estimable duke, while other parts of the room are adorned with corresponding sculptures of the late Duchess of Rutland, the Marquis of Granby, Lord Robert Manners, Pitt, Cromwell, William III., George II., Earl of Mansfield, Duke of Somerset, Earl of Chatham, Admiral Keppel, and others. One striking feature of this gallery is the Gobelins tapestry (eight pieces) which adorns the walls. It is in perfect preservation, and represents scenes in the story of Don Quixote from designs by Coypel, and appear to have been made in 1770. The walls are also adorned by many family portraits and other paintings by Reynolds, Hoppner, Kneller, Smirke, Lely, Bishop, Zucchero, Stothard, and others. The appointments of this splendid room are arranged with perfect taste, and it is filled with objects of interest and beauty; one object that often attracts attention being a carved chair, bearing an inscription showing that it was made, as is also one belonging to the Queen, from the wood of the tree at La Haye Sainte, against which the Duke of Wellington took up his station at the battle of Waterloo. The opposite end of the Regent’s Gallery to that at which the visitor enters from the Grand Staircase is one gigantic mirror filling the whole space, and thus, in appearance, giving it a double length. From this end one doorway leads to the private gallery of the chapel, and another opens into the library.

The Library is entirely of oak, the ceiling divided into compartments, with carved bosses at the intersections, and armorial bearings decorating other parts. Over the fire-place Grant’s fine portrait of the late duke, “presented to his grace as a token of affection and esteem by his tenantry, 27th February, 1856,” is placed, and forms a pleasant feature in the room. The collection of books is, as is natural to expect, of the most choice and costly kind, many of the literary treasures being priceless gems of past ages. Among these are several curious and valuable MS. rarities and sketches by the old masters.