CHAPTER V
THE BACTERIOLOGY OF FERMENTED OR SOURED MILK
A CHAPTER FOR STUDENTS
During the last few years much work has been done in investigating the action of various classes of organisms—bacteria, yeasts, and moulds—upon milk and its products. While, however, the attention of the dairyman has been chiefly directed to the propagation of acid-producing organisms and the use of pure cultures of lactic acid bacteria in their relation to butter and cheese making, a new sphere in micro-biology has been disclosed by the study of the effects caused by the combined growth of two or more different classes of organisms in milk and the consequent production of lactic, alcoholic, and gaseous fermentations. The simultaneous occurrence of these fermentative changes is responsible for the formation of such beverages as keffir, koumiss, milk-wine, etc. It has therefore become essential, in connection with the study of new developments in the milk industry, that we should make a more intimate acquaintance with the bacteriology of the ferments involved.
Keffir (kephir, kifyr, kiafyr, kephor, kyppe) is the name given to an acid, slightly alcoholic drink, which for many centuries has been prepared by the nomadic tribes in the Caucasus. The characteristic fermentation is induced by the addition of so-called keffir grains. These are yellow or golden-yellow, warty, and furrowed flakes or nodules, the former varying in size from that of a rice grain to that of a bean, while the latter are often about an inch across and one eighth of an inch thick. Bearing in mind the fact that the preparation of keffir has been carried on for many centuries, it is not surprising that the origin of these grains should be surrounded by myths.
The belief is prevalent among the Mohammedan tribes of the Caucasus that keffir grains were, in the first instance, presented by Allah, as a sign of immortality, to one preferred tribe. Others hold that, in past ages, they were found by shepherds growing on a shrub in the Caucasian highlands; while, according to Skolotowski,[47] they were originally found adhering to the walls of an oaken vessel used for the preparation of airam. This is a soured milk beverage similar to keffir, but possessing a weaker alcoholic fermentation, and prepared from goats' milk by the addition of pieces of calf's stomach. This would undoubtedly serve to introduce various species of lactic acid bacteria, and will be referred to in the portion dealing with soured milks. Keffir is prepared by the Caucasians from cows', sheep's, or goats' milk, and the operation is carried on in large leathern tubes or bottles. After the addition of the grains or seeds to the milk the vessel is placed in a cool chamber, and the fermentation is allowed to proceed for one or two days, by the end of which time the normal fermentation is at an end. During this period the keffir grains have increased enormously in size, assume a bright yellow colour, and lose their sour buttery smell.
Previous to the removal of the fermented liquid, a portion of the bottle is firmly bound from the rest by a stout cord, and the greater portion of the remaining keffir is quickly removed for use, thus avoiding, as far as practicable, any outside infection. After the addition of fresh warm milk the cord round the end of the bottle is removed, and the old and new milk thoroughly mixed for a time in order to ensure uniform inoculation of the new milk for the next fermentation. During the winter months the leathern vessels are often placed in the sunshine, so that the temperature remains at 61° to 65° F.
The necessary agitation of the vessel is said to be supplied in the form of kicks by passers-by or by the children during their play.
The beverage prepared in this way is so gaseous in character that it is often blown forcibly from the vessel during removal, and possesses, according to Podowyssozki,[48] a very acid taste.