No sooner was the Brazilian Expedition known to the public, than I received a letter from Mr. Allen McLane, President of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, offering to me and my whole party the hospitality of their magnificent ship the Colorado, then just sailing from New York for the Pacific coast. She was going almost empty of passengers, being bound by the way of Cape Horn for San Francisco. We left New York on board this beautiful vessel, on the 1st of April, 1865. The record of our delightful voyage to Rio de Janeiro will be found in the narrative; but I wish here publicly to acknowledge my obligation to Mr. McLane for his generosity to the expedition. Besides the sympathy accorded me by private individuals, I have to thank the Hon. Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy, for a general order, received on the eve of my departure, desiring the officers of the United States Navy, wherever I should fall in with them, to afford me such assistance in my scientific researches as would not interfere with the regular service; and I learned at Rio that Mr. Seward had warmly recommended the expedition to General Webb, at that time United States Minister to Brazil. Finally, I would express my thanks also to Messrs. Garrison and Allen for the free passage offered to myself and my companions for our return, on board the line of steamers established between New York and Rio de Janeiro during our stay in Brazil.
It will be seen hereafter what facilities were granted me throughout this journey by the Brazilians themselves, and that the undertaking, so warmly speeded on its way, was welcomed no less cordially in the country to which it was bound.
One word as to the manner in which this volume has grown into its present shape, for it has been rather the natural growth of circumstances than the result of any preconceived design. Partly for the entertainment of her friends, partly with the idea that I might make some use of it in knitting together the scientific reports of my journey by a thread of narrative, Mrs. Agassiz began this diary. I soon fell into the habit of giving her daily the more general results of my scientific observations, knowing that she would allow nothing to be lost which was worth preserving. In consequence of this mode of working, our separate contributions have become so closely interwoven that we should hardly know how to disconnect them, and our common journal is therefore published, with the exception of a few unimportant changes, almost as it was originally written. In this volume I have attempted only to give such an account of my scientific work and its results as would explain to the public what were the aims of the expedition, and how far they have been accomplished. It is my hope to complete a work, already begun, on the Natural History, and especially on the Fishes of Brazil, in which will be recorded not only my investigations during the journey and those of my assistants in their independent excursions, but also the researches now regularly carried on in connection with the immense Brazilian collections stored in the Museum at Cambridge. This must, however, be the slow labor of many years, and can only be published very gradually. In the mean time I hope that this forerunner of the more special reports may serve to show that our year in Brazil, full as it was of enjoyment for all the party, was also rich in permanent results for science.
L. AGASSIZ.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK TO RIO DE JANEIRO. | |
| PAGE | |
|---|---|
| First Sunday at Sea.—Gulf Stream.—Gulf-Weed.—Lectures proposed.—First Lecture: On the Gulf Stream in the Gulf Stream.—Aquarium established on board.—Second Lecture.—Rough Sea.—Peculiar Tint of Water.—Third Lecture: Laying out Work of Expedition in Brazil; Distribution of Fishes in Brazilian Rivers; its Bearing on Origin of Species; Collecting of Eggs.—Tropical Sunset.—Fourth Lecture: Plan of Geological Investigations with special reference to Glacial Phenomena in South America.—Flying-Fish.—Fifth Lecture: Glacial Phenomena, continued.—Second Sunday at Sea.—Rough Water.—Sixth Lecture: Embryological Investigations as a Guide to sound Classification.—Seventh Lecture.—Moonlight Nights.—Trade-Winds.—Eighth Lecture: Importance of Precision in Localizing Specimens.—Southern Cross.—Ninth Lecture: Fresh-water Fishes of Brazil.—Easter Sunday.—First Sight of South American Shore.—Olinda.—Pernambuco.—Catamarans.—Tenth Lecture: Methods of Collecting.—Eleventh Lecture: Classification of Fishes as illustrated by Embryology.—Preparations for Arrival.—Twelfth Lecture: Practical Lesson in Embryology.—Closing Lecture: Transmutation Theory; Intellectual and Political Independence.—Resolutions and Speeches.—Singular Red Patches on the Surface of the Sea | [1]–45 |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| RIO DE JANEIRO AND ITS ENVIRONS.—JUIZ DE FORA. | |
| Arrival.—Aspect of Harbor and City.—Custom-House.—First Glimpse of Brazilian Life.—Negro Dance.—Effect of Emancipation in United States upon Slavery in Brazil.—First Aspect of Rio de Janeiro on Land.—Picturesque Street Groups.—Eclipse of the Sun.—At Home in Rio.—Larangeiras.—Passeio Publico.—Excursion on the Dom Pedro Railroad.—Visit of the Emperor to the Colorado.—Cordiality of the Government to the Expedition.—Laboratory.—Botanical Garden.—Alley of Palms.—Excursion to the Corcovado.—Juiz de Fora Road.—Petropolis.—Tropical Vegetation.—Ride from Petropolis to Juiz de Fora.—Visit to Senhor Lage.—Excursion to the Forest of the Empress.—Visit to Mr. Halfeld.—Return to Rio.—News of the Great Northern Victories, and of the President’s Assassination | [46]–79 |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| LIFE IN RIO CONTINUED.—FAZENDA LIFE. | |
| Botafogo.—Insane Hospital.—Tijuca.—Erratic Drift.—Vegetation.—Birthday Dinner.—Arrangements for Parties to the Interior.—Public Lectures in Rio.—Procession of St. George.—Leave Rio on Excursion to the Fortaleza de Santa Anna.—Localities for Erratic Drift between Rio and Petropolis.—Departure from Juiz de Fora.—Arrival at the Fazenda. Ride in the Forest.—Eve of San João.—Cupim Nests.—Excursion to the Upper Fazenda.—Grand Hunt.—Picnic.—Coffee Plantation.—Return to Rio.—Mimic Snow-Fields.—Coffee Insect spinning its Nest.—Visit to the Fazenda of Commendador Breves.—Botanizing Excursion to Tijuca.—Preparations for leaving Rio.—Major Coutinho.—Collegio Dom Pedro Segundo. | [80]–125 |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| VOYAGE UP THE COAST TO PARÁ. | |
| On board the Cruzeiro do Sul.—Members of the Party.—Arrival at Bahia.—Day in the Country.—Return to the Steamer.—Conversation about Slavery in Brazil.—Negro Marriages.—Maceio.—Pernambuco.—Parahyba do Norte.—Ramble on Shore.—Ceará.—Difficult Landing.—Brazilian Baths.—Maranham.—Assai Palm.—Visit to Orphan Asylum.—Detained in Port.—Variety of Medusæ.—Arrival of American Gunboat.—More Medusæ.—Dinner on Shore.—Cordiality toward the Expedition.—Arrival at Pará.—Kind Reception.—Environs of Pará.—Luxuriant Growth.—Markets.—Indian Boats.—Agreeable Climate.—Excursion in the Harbor.—Curious Mushroom.—Success in collecting, with the assistance of our Host and other Friends.—Fishes of the Forests.—Public Expressions of Sympathy for the Expedition.—Generosity of the Amazonian Steamship Company.—Geological Character of the Shore from Rio to Pará.—Erratic Drift.—Letter to the Emperor. | [126]–151 |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| FROM PARÁ TO MANAOS. | |
| First Sunday on the Amazons.—Geographical Question.—Convenient Arrangements of Steamer.—Vast Dimensions of the River.—Aspect of Shores.—Village of Breves.—Letter about Collections.—Vegetation.—Variety of Palms.—Settlement of Tajapuru.—Enormous Size of Leaves of the Miriti Palm.—Walk on Shore.—Indian Houses.—Courtesy of Indians.—Row in the Forest.—Town of Gurupá.—River Xingu.—Color of Water.—Town of Porto do Moz.—Flat-topped Hills of Almeyrim.—Beautiful Sunset.—Monte Alégre.—Character of Scenery and Soil.—Santarem.—Send off Party on the River Tapajoz.—Continue up the Amazons.—Pastoral Scenes on the Banks.—Town of Villa Bella.—Canoe Journey at Night.—Esperança’s Cottage.—Picturesque Scene at Night.—Success in Collecting.—Indian Life.—Making Farinha.—Dance in the Evening.—Howling Monkeys.—Religious Impressions of Indians.—Cottage of Maia.—His Interest in Educating his Children.—Return to Steamer.—Scientific Results of the Excursion. | [152]–184 |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| LIFE AT MANAOS.—VOYAGE FROM MANAOS TO TABATINGA. | |
| Arrival at Manaos.—Meeting of the Solimoens with the Rio Negro.—Domesticated at Manaos.—Return of Party from the Tapajoz.—Generosity of Government.—Walks.—Water-Carriers.—Indian School.—Leave Manaos.—Life on board the Steamer.—Barreira das Cudajas.—Coari.—Wooding.—Appearance of Banks.—Geological Constitution.—Forest.—Sumaumeira-Tree.—Arrow-Grass.—Red Drift Cliffs.—Sand-Beaches.—Indian Huts.—Turtle-Hunting.—Drying Fish.—Teffé.—Doubts about the Journey.—Unexpected Adviser.—Fonte Bôa.—Geological Character of Banks.—Lakes.—Flocks of Water Birds.—Tonantins.—Picturesque Grouping of Indians.—San Paolo.—Land-Slides.—Character of Scenery.—Scanty Population.—Animal Life.—Tabatinga.—Aspect of the Settlement.—Mosquitoes.—Leave one of the Party to make Collections.—On our Way down the River.—Party to the Rivers Iça and Hyutahy.—Aground in the Amazons.—Arrival at Teffé. | [185]–211 |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| LIFE IN TEFFÉ. | |
| Aspect of Teffé.—Situation.—Description of Houses.—Fishing Excursion.—Astonishing Variety of Fishes.—Acará.—Scarcity of Laborers.—Our Indoors Man.—Bruno.—Alexandrina.—Pleasant Walks.—Mandioca-shed in the Forest.—Indian Encampment on the Beach.—Excursion to Fishing Lodge on the Solimoens.—Amazonian Beaches.—Breeding-Places of Turtles, Fishes, etc.—Adroitness of Indians in finding them.—Description of a “Sitio.”—Indian Clay-Eaters.—Cuieira-Tree.—Fish Hunt.—Forest Lake.—Water Birds.—Success in Collecting.—Evening Scene in Sitio.—Alexandrina as Scientific Aid.—Fish Anecdote.—Relations between Fishes as shown by their Embryology.—Note upon the Marine Character of the Amazonian Faunæ.—Acará.—News from the Parties in the Interior.—Return of Party from the Iça.—Preparations for Departure.—Note on General Result of Scientific Work in Teffé.—Waiting for the Steamer.—Sketch of Alexandrina.—Mocuim.—Thunder-Storm.—Repiquete.—Geological Observations. | [212]–250 |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| RETURN TO MANAOS.—AMAZONIAN PICNIC. | |
| Arrival at Manaos.—New Quarters.—The Ibicuhy.—News from Home.—Visit to the Cascade.—Banheiras in the Forest.—Excursion to Lake Hyanuary.—Character and Prospects of the Amazonian Valley.—Reception at the Lake.—Description of Sitio.—Successful Fishing.—Indian Visitors.—Indian Ball.—Character of the Dancing.—Disturbed Night.—Canoe Excursion.—Scenery.—Another Sitio.—Morals and Manners.—Talk with the Indian Women.—Life in the Forest.—Life in the Towns.—Dinner-Party.—Toasts.—Evening Row on the Lake.—Night Scene.—Smoking among the Senhoras.—Return to Manaos. | [251]–275 |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. | |
| Photographic Establishment.—Indian Portraits.—Excursion to the Great Cascade.—Its Geological Formation.—Bathing Pool.—Parasitic Plants.—Return by the Igarapé.—Public Ball.—Severity in Recruiting, and its Effects.—Collecting Parties.—Scenes of Indian Life.—Fête Champêtre at the Casa dos Educandos.—Prison at Manaos.—Prison Discipline on the Amazons.—Extracts from Presidential Reports on this Subject.—Prison at Teffé.—General Character of Brazilian Institutions.—Emperor’s Birthday.—Illuminations and Public Festivities.—Return of Collecting Parties.—Remarks on the Races.—Leave Manaos for Mauhes. | [276]–300 |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| EXCURSION TO MAUHES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. | |
| Leave Manaos.—On board the Ibicuhy.—Navigation of the River Ramos.—Aspect of the Banks.—Arrival at Mauhes.—Situation of Mauhes.—Tupinambaranas.—Character of Population.—Appearance of the Villages of Mauhes.—Bolivian Indians.—Guaraná.—Excursion to Mucaja-Tuba.—Mundurucu Indians.—Aspect of Village.—Church.—Distribution of Presents.—Generosity of the Indians.—Their Indifference.—Visit to another Settlement.—Return to Mauhes.—Arrival of Mundurucus in the Village.—Description of Tattooing.—Collection.—Boto.—Indian Superstitions.—Palm Collection.—Walk in the Forest.—Leave Mauhes.—Mundurucu Indian and his Wife.—Their Manners and Appearance.—Indian Tradition.—Distinctions of Caste. | [301]–321 |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| RETURN TO MANAOS.—EXCURSION ON THE RIO NEGRO. | |
| Christmas Eve at Manaos.—Ceremonies of the Indians.—Churches on the Amazons.—Leave Manaos for the Rio Negro.—Curious River Formation.—Aspect of the River.—Its Vegetation.—Scanty Population.—Village of Taua Péassu.—Padre of the Village.—Palms.—Village of Pedreira.—Indian Camp.—Making Palm-thatch.—Sickness and Want at Pedreira.—Row in the Forest.—Tropical Shower.—Geology of Pedreira.—Indian Recruits.—Collection of Palms.—Extracts from Mr. Agassiz’s Notes on Vegetation.—Return to Manaos.—Desolation of the Rio Negro.—Its future Prospects.—Humboldt’s Anticipations.—Wild Flowers.—Distribution of Fishes in the Amazonian Waters.—How far due to Migration.—Hydrographic System.—Alternation between the Rise and Fall of the Southern and Northern Tributaries. | [322]–350 |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| DOWN THE RIVER TO PARÁ.—EXCURSIONS ON THE COAST. | |
| Farewell Visit to the Great Cascade at Manaos.—Change in its Aspect.—Arrival at Villa Bella.—Return to the House of the Fisherman Maia.—Excursion to the Lago Maximo.—Quantity of Game and Waterfowl.—Victoria regia.—Leave Villa Bella.—Arrive at Obydos.—Its Situation and Geology.—Santarem.—Visit to the Church.—Anecdote of Martius.—A Row overland.—Monte Alégre.—Picturesque Scenery.—Banheiras.—Excursion into the Country.—Leave Monte Alégre.—Anecdote of Indians.—Almeyrim.—New Geological Facts.—Porto do Moz.—Collections.—Gurupá.—Tajapurú.—Arrive at Pará.—Religious Procession.—Excursion to Marajo.—Sourés.—Jesuit Missions.—Geology of Marajo.—Buried Forest.—Vigia.—Igarapé.—Vegetation and Animal Life.—Geology.—Return to Pará.—Photographing Plants.—Notes on the Vegetation of the Amazons.—Prevalence of Leprosy. | [351]–396 |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| PHYSICAL HISTORY OF THE AMAZONS. | |
| Drift about Rio de Janeiro.—Decomposition of underlying Rock.—Different Aspect of Glacial Phenomena in different Continents.—Fertility of the Drift.—Geological Observations of Messrs. Hartt and St. John.—Correspondence of Deposits along the Coast with those of Rio and those of the Valley of the Amazons.—Primitive Formation of the Valley.—First known Chapter of its History.—Cretaceous Fossil Fishes.—Former Extent of the South-American Coast.—Cretaceous Fossils from the Rio Purus.—Comparison between North and South America.—Geological Formations along the Banks of the Amazons.—Fossil Leaves.—Clays and Sandstones.—Hills of Almeyrim.—Monte Alégre.—Situation and Scenery.—Serra of Ereré.—Comparison with Swiss Scenery.—Boulders of Ereré.—Ancient Thickness of Amazonian Deposits.—Difference between Drift of the Amazons and that of Rio.—Inferences drawn from the present Condition of the Deposits.—Immense Extent of Sandstone Formation.—Nature and Origin of these Deposits.—Referred to the Ice-Period.—Absence of Glacial Marks.—Glacial Evidence of another Kind.—Changes in the Outline of the South-American Coast.—Souré.—Igarapé Grande.—Vigia.—Bay of Braganza.—Anticipation. | [397]–441 |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| CEARÁ. | |
| Leaving Pará.—Farewell to the Amazons.—Ease of Travelling on the Amazons.—Rough Passage.—Arrival at Ceará.—Difficulty of Landing.—Aspect of the Town.—Rainy Season.—Consequent Sickliness.—Our Purpose in stopping at Ceará.—Report of Dr. Felice about Moraines.—Preparations for Journey into the Interior.—Difficulties and Delays in getting off.—On the Way.—Night at Arancho.—Bad Roads.—Carnauba Palm.—Arrival at Monguba.—Kind Reception by Senhor Franklin de Lima.—Geology of the Region.—Evening Games and Amusements.—Pacatuba.—Traces of ancient Glaciers.—Serra of Aratanha.—Climb up the Serra.—Hospitality of Senhor da Costa.—Picturesque Views.—The Sertaō.—Drought and Rains.—Epidemics.—Return to Monguba.—Detained by extraordinary Rains.—Return to Ceará.—Overflowed Roads.—Difficulty of fording.—Arrival at Ceará.—Liberality of the President of the Province toward the Expedition. | [442]–465 |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS OF RIO.—ORGAN MOUNTAINS. | |
| Voyage from Ceará.—Freshets at Pernambuco.—Arrival at Rio.—Collections.—Vegetation about Rio as compared with that on the Amazons.—Misericordia Hospital.—Charities connected with it.—Almsgiving in Brazil.—Insane Asylum.—Military School.—The Mint.—Academy of Fine Arts.—Heroism of a Negro.—Primary School for Girls.—Neglected Education of Women.—Blind Asylum.—Lectures.—Character of a Brazilian Audience.—Organ Mountains.—Walk up the Serra.—Theresopolis.—Visit to the St. Louis Fazenda.—Climate of Theresopolis.—Descent of the Serra.—Geology of the Organ Mountains.—The Last Word. | [466]–494 |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF BRAZIL. | |
| Religion and Clergy.—Education.—Law, Medical, and Scientific Schools.—High and Common Schools.—Public Library and Museum in Rio de Janeiro.—Historical and Geographical Institute.—Social and Domestic Relations.—Public Functionaries.—Agriculture.—Zones of Vegetation.—Coffee.—Cotton.—Timber and other Products of the Amazons.—Cattle.—Territorial Subdivision of the Great Valley.—Emigration.—Foreigners.—Paraguayan War. | [495]–517 |
APPENDIX.
| I. | The Gulf Stream | [519] |
| II. | Flying-Fishes | [522] |
| III. | Resolutions passed on board the Colorado | [525] |
| IV. | Dom Pedro Segundo Railroad | [527] |
| V. | Permanence of Characteristics in different Human Species | [529] |
| VI. | Sketch of Separate Journeys undertaken by different Members of the Expedition | [533] |
LIST OF WOODCUTS.
| Cocoeiro Palm | [Frontispiece] |
| A species of Attalea common in the Serra d’Estrella. It bears two or three large bunches of olive-like berries, hanging immediately below the crown of leaves. The upper part of the stem is often overgrown with parasites, as in the specimen represented here. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |
| Page | |
|---|---|
| Tree entwined by Sipos | [54] |
| There are a great many parasites, the stem and roots of which are attached to larger trees; this woodcut represents one of those strange “tree-killers,” as they are called by the natives, belonging to the family of the Fig-trees, which, beginning their growth among the upper branches of trees, gradually descend to the ground, throw out branches around the stem they attack, and in the end kill it in their embrace. On the right are Lianas, from which hang parasitic flowers. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |
| Side View of the Alley of Palms | [60] |
| Part of the Botanical Garden in Rio de Janeiro. In the foreground a Pandanus covered with fruits. The Palms standing in pairs in the great alley are commonly called Palma Real. Their botanical name is Oreodoxa oleracea. The peak of Corcovado forms the background. | |
| From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe. | |
| Vista down the Alley of Palms | [61] |
| The objects are the same as in the preceding woodcut, only seen at right angles, to afford a view down the alley. | |
| From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe. | |
| Botafogo Bay | [81] |
| The great southeastern bay in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The highest peak in the centre is the Corcovado, at the foot of which stand the Insane Asylum and the Military School. On the left are the Gavia and the Sugar-Loaf; on the right, Tijuca. A beach runs all round the bay. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |
| Mina Negress | [83] |
| From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe. | |
| Mina Negress and Child | [84] |
| From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe. | |
| Fallen Trunk overgrown by Parasites | [91] |
| A comparison with the woodcut facing p. [54] will show how parasites growing upon living trees differ from those springing from dead trunks. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |
| Fazenda de Santa Anna, in Minas Geraes | [103] |
| The level grounds in front of the buildings are used for drying the coffee. | |
| From a photograph by Senhor Machado. | |
| Esperança’s Cottage | [179] |
| From a water-colored painting by Mr. J. Burkhardt. | |
| Veranda and Dining-Room at Teffé | [214] |
| From a drawing by Mr. J. Burkhardt. | |
| Head of Alexandrina | [245] |
| Extraordinary as the head of hair of this girl may seem, it is in no way exaggerated; it stood six inches beyond the shoulders each way. | |
| From a sketch by Mr. Wm. James. | |
| Dining-Room at Hyanuary | [258] |
| The palm on the left is a Pupunha (Guilielma speciosa); the large-leaved trees back of the building are Bananas, and the Palm on the right a Javari (Astrocaryum Javari). | |
| From a water-colored painting by Mr. J. Burkhardt. | |
| Mauhes River | [304] |
| The Palm in the foreground is a Mucaja (Acrocomia lasiospatha); near the fence stand Banana-trees, and in the distance on the right a Tucuma Palm (Astrocaryum Tucuma). | |
| From a water-colored painting by Mr. J. Burkhardt. | |
| Mundurucu Indian; male | [313] |
| From a photograph by Dr. Gustavo, of Manaos. | |
| Mundurucu Indian; female | [314] |
| Also from a photograph by Dr. Gustavo, of Manaos. | |
| Fan Baccába | [335] |
| This Palm, called Œnocarpus distychius by botanists, is remarkable for the arrangement of its leaves, which are placed opposite to each other on two sides of the trunk, and higher and higher alternately, so that, seen from one side, the two rows of leaves are equally visible, and have the appearance of a wide fan; seen in profile, they look like a narrow plume. | |
| From a drawing by Mr. J. Burkhardt. | |
| Sumaumeira | [391] |
| This colossal tree is known to botanists under the name of Eriodendrum Sumauma, and may be seen everywhere in the basin of the Amazons. | |
| From a photograph presented by Senhor Pimenta Bueno. | |
| Garrafaō, among the Organ Mountains | [486] |
| This peak is called the Finger by the English residents of Rio. The Brazilians liken it to a bottle. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |
| Organ Mountains | [490] |
| The loose boulder alluded to in the text stands on the fourth peak from the left. | |
| From a photograph by G. Leuzinger. | |