[CHAPTER IX]
THE CARE AND TESTING OF TELESCOPES
A word at the start concerning the choice and purchase of telescopes. The question of refractors vs. reflectors has been already considered. The outcome of the case depends on how much and how often you are likely to use the instrument, and just what you want it for. For casual observations and occasional use—all that most busy buyers of telescopes can expect—the refractor has a decided advantage in convenience. If one has leisure for frequent observations, and particularly if he can give his telescope a permanent mount, and is going in for serious work, he will do well not to dismiss the idea of a reflector without due deliberation.
In any case it is good policy to procure an instrument from one of the best makers. And if you do not buy directly of the actual maker it is best to deal with his accredited agents. In other words avoid telescopes casually picked up in the optical trade unless you chance to have facilities for thorough testing under competent guidance before purchase. No better telescopes are made than can be had from the best American makers. A few British and German makers are quite in the same class. So few high grade French telescopes reach this country as to cause a rather common, but actually unjust,[28] belief that there are none.
If economy must be enforced it is much wiser to try to pick up a used instrument of first class manufacture than to chance a new one at a low price. Now and then a maker of very ordinary repute may turn out a good instrument, but the fact is one to be proved—not assumed. Age and use do not seriously deteriorate a telescope if it has been given proper care. Some of Fraunhofer’s are still doing good service after a century, and occasionally an instrument from one of the great makers comes into the market at a real bargain. It may drift back to the maker for resale, or turn up at any optician’s shop, and in any case is better worth looking at than an equally cheap new telescope.
The condition of the tube and stand cuts little figure if they are mechanically in good shape. Most of the older high grade instruments were of brass, beautifully finished and lacquered, and nothing looks worse after hard usage. It is essential that the fitting of the parts should be accurate and that the focussing rack should work with the utmost smoothness. A fault just here, however, can be remedied at small cost. The mount, whatever its character, should be likewise smooth working and without a trace of shakiness, unless one figures on throwing it away.
As to the objective, it demands very careful examination before a real test of its optical qualities. The objective with its cell should be taken out and closely scrutinized in a strong light after the superficial dust has been removed with a camel’s hair brush or by wiping very gently with the soft Japanese “lens paper” used by opticians.
One is likely to find plenty to look at; spots, finger marks, obvious scratches, and what is worse a network of superficial scratches, or a surface with patches looking like very fine pitting. These last two defects imply the need of repolishing the affected surface, which means also more or less refiguring. Ordinary brownish spots and finger marks can usually be removed with little trouble.
The layman, so to speak, is often warned never to remove the cell from a telescope but he might as well learn the simpler adjustments first as last. In taking off a cell the main thing is to see what one is about and to proceed in an orderly manner. If the whole cell unscrews, as often is the case in small instruments, the only precaution required is to put a pencil mark on the cell and its seat so that it can be screwed back to where it started.
If as is more usual the cell fits on with three pairs of screws, one of each pair will form an abutment against which its mate pulls the cell. A pencil mark locating the position of the head of each of the pulling screws enables one to back them out and replace them without shifting the cell.