While in this garden, so called from the orange-trees, flowering shrubs, roses and jasmine which adorned it, Sir John asked whether the painted ceilings and doors were the work of natives of the city. The Governor replied that what they saw was ancient, and, at a hint from his secretary, he offered to show them some rooms he was adding to the house, also the view from the flat roof. Up narrow and steep stairs they climbed to various unfinished chambers, the ceilings of which did honour to the modern artists of Marákesh. Then, after a scramble, they reached the terrace over these rooms, which, being higher than the surrounding buildings, afforded us a lovely view of the whole city and the country around, the effect greatly enhanced by the deep red glow in the west, left by the setting sun, that seemed to set the graceful palms on fire as they stood out against the beautiful Atlas Mountains, whose snowy ranges glowed in varying tints of rose and purple.
On descending the visitors were conducted to the banquet prepared for them and, with the best grace they could assume, submitted to their fate.
On April 23 Sir John had a final private audience of the Sultan, to take leave. An account of this, his last interview with Sultan Sid Mohammed, was written by Sir John as follows:—
The Sultan received me in a ‘kubba,’ where he was seated on a divan. As I approached, His Majesty, motioning me to a gilt arm-chair, placed close to the divan, requested me to be seated; he then dismissed the chamberlains and other attendants. Thus we were alone.
After a friendly conversation and thanking the Sultan for the hospitality and attention received during my stay at the Court, I said, ‘With Your Majesty’s permission, I am about to put a strange query.’
‘Kol’—‘Say on,’ said the Sultan, ‘for I know, whatever you say, yours will be the words of a true friend, as you have ever been.’
‘Then,’ I continued, ‘I beg to know whether Your Majesty would desire to listen to the language of flattery, to words that will give you joy and pleasure, to expressions of satisfaction and admiration of all I have seen and learnt during my long residence in Your Majesty’s dominions; or whether Your Majesty would elect that I should speak out the truth and make known, without reserve, that which may give Your Majesty pain, distress, and even, it may be feared, offence?’
The Sultan, looking very grave, replied, ‘This is the first time in my life that I have been asked by any man whether I would choose to hear what might give me pain, or even offence, or to listen to that which may please or flatter me. I select the former.’
I bowed and said, ‘Before I proceed further, will you graciously promise not to take offence at the language I am about to hold, and that I shall not lose Your Majesty’s good opinion and friendship through rashness of speech?’
The Sultan repeated, ‘Say on. You have been, are, and will ever remain a true friend.’