‘As the sea was so high it was judged useless to attempt to cross the bar at Rabát, and the Lively returned direct to Tangier.’
CHAPTER XX.
ASCENT OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS.
After his return from the Mission to Marákesh, which has been described in the previous chapter, Sir John, writing to Sir Henry Layard on May 24, 1873, gives an epitome of his labours at the Court, and refers to the expeditions undertaken to the Atlas Mountains during his travels.
‘We returned,’ he says, ‘from our travels on the 8th inst. in better health than when we started. The weather was cool, and no rain fell to stop our march except on one day.
‘I had no instructions from the Foreign Office except to deliver my new credentials; but I took advantage, of course, of my visit to the Court to place our relations on a better footing, and I flatter myself I have succeeded, as I have settled, or put in the proper groove for settlement, a host of pending claims and grievances.
‘Tissot was at the Court at the same time as myself, and we marched hand in hand in all questions affecting common interests, or, as Tissot described the position of the Moorish Government, like that of a wild boar with a hound hanging on each ear. The Moors were astonished to find the French and British Representatives in perfect union and showing no signs of petty jealousy about etiquette in forms; in fact, we took our precautions of warning Moorish and our own officials that we insisted upon no attention being shown or form observed to one or the other which differed.
‘The Sultan and his Ministers were most courteous and hospitable. Nothing could be more pleasing than His Majesty’s manner and language to myself in a private audience. He conversed with great good sense, but he declared his policy to be conservative in the strictest sense of the word.
‘In reply to the proposals made by Tissot and myself for various reforms and improvements, His Majesty said to me, “We and thou understand very well that all you suggest is very excellent, and might be most beneficial in developing the resources of our dominions; but the eminent men (Ulama, &c.) do not desire that we should introduce the innovations of Europe into this land, nor conform ourselves with Christian usages. We made certain promises on our accession to the throne, and unless my councillors alter their views, we cannot, without endangering our position.” When I alluded to Turkey and Egypt, he intimated that those Governments had no doubt increased in power and wealth, but that their independence was shaken.
‘Tissot received a telegram from his Government regarding some frontier conflict near Taza, stating that a large force had been sent by the Governor of Algeria to enter Morocco and chastise the predatory tribes. Thiers stopped the march of the force, until Tissot could be referred to. He has arranged all matters satisfactorily with the Sultan, to whom he brought the “Grand Cordon of the Legion of Honour.” . . .