‘Many of the Shloh proper names appear to have an affinity to the Hebrew, if not actually of Hebraic origin, such as Ait Usi, Ait Atta, Ait Emor, Ait Sisac, Ait Braim. The Hebrew equivalent of the first three being Hait Busi, in our translation the Jebusites, Ha Hitti, the Hittites. Ha Emori, the Amorites. Ait Sisac may be translated “Those of Isaac,” or The children of laughter. Ait Braim needs no translation.
‘On our entry into Mesfíwa we were surprised to find signs of much more industry, and even of civilisation, than in the districts inhabited by the Arab population. Here irrigation was carefully attended to; the numerous plantations of olive and fruit-trees, as well as the fields of grain, were better cultivated; and the condition of the bridle roads and rude bridges over the streams afforded further proof of a more intelligent and industrious people.
‘Ascending the slopes we reached the camp pitched in an olive-grove on a small island formed by the Ghemáts, here called the “Dad i Sirr,” evidently its Berber name. We crossed with some difficulty this mountain torrent, which foamed and swirled up to the horses’ girths. Flowing down a gorge of the Atlas running nearly North and South, this river then takes a north-westerly direction till it joins the Tensift, which again flows into the Atlantic near Saffi.
‘On the side of a hill, about four hundred yards from the site of the camp, lay the village Akhlij, crowned by a castle built of red stone and earth, and having five square bastions with loopholes for musketry. In fact every house in these villages can be used as a little fort, the walls being pierced so that each householder can defend himself against his neighbour, or all can combine and act against an invader of their stronghold. The population of Akhlij is said to be about 500 souls, including some forty Jews, each Jewish family, according to the custom of the Shloh, being under the special protection of a Mohammedan chieftain.
‘Above the spot where we were encamped rose the mountain of Zinat Kar, the summit dotted with patches of snow, and, towering over all, the snowy heights of “Glaui” frowned upon the groves of palms, oranges and olives which spread below basking in the sultry temperature of the plains.
‘On our arrival in camp the Sheikh and elders of the village presented themselves, by order of the Sultan, to welcome the “Bashador.” The Sheikh, a tall man, was draped in a long, seamless “haik;” but some of his followers wore a black burnous similar to those in use among the Jews of Marákesh. The meeting took place under the British flag—hoisted for the first time in these wild regions—before Sir John’s tent. In the evening the deputation returned, bringing an abundant supply of provisions and forage, and, in addition, huge dishes of cooked food for the soldiers and camp-followers. This “mona” was collected from the whole province under the rule of Basha Grenog, comprising some fifteen “kabail,” or tribes, spread over a district about fifty miles in diameter. The tax therefore fell lightly on the inhabitants, not amounting to more perhaps than a half-penny a family, which sum would be deducted from the payment of their annual taxes.
‘This spot in the valley of Uríka, at the foot of the Atlas, is about 500 feet above Marákesh and 2,000 feet above sea-level, and the fine air was most enjoyable. The night appeared cold, the temperature falling below 60° Fahr. At midday it was 74° in the shade.
‘There were contradictory statements as to the sport to be expected. But, after much cross-questioning, the natives confessed that there were no wild boar nearer than the snow; that the “audad[48],” or wild sheep, was to be found, but only on the highest hills a couple of hours’ ride distant; and that lions and leopards were not to be seen within two days’ march, or about thirty miles further among the snowy ranges. On inquiry whether there were any fish in the river, we were told that, later in the season, a speckled fish about nine or ten inches long comes up from the Tensift. This no doubt is the trout, which is found also in the mountain streams near Tetuan. On asking the Berber name for large river fish, Sir John was surprised to hear that it is “selmen,” which would appear to be a cognate word to our “salmon.”’
The account of the ascent of the Atlas which follows is chiefly compiled from notes written at the time by Mr. Drummond Hay, who accompanied the Mission, and who, with one companion, succeeded in scaling the heights and reaching the snow. An earlier ascent, but not to so high a point, was made in 1829 by Mr. E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Sir John’s father. Other travellers have visited the Atlas, both before and since Sir John; but no Representative of a Foreign Power, it is believed, had ever yet done so, openly and with the good-will of the Sultan.
‘May 18. After breakfast all the party, ladies included, mounted their horses. The son of the Sheikh, a fine handsome fellow, riding a splendid black horse, led the way up the valley of Uríka, and we rode along the banks of the torrent. On each side of the gorge rose conical hills clothed with “el aris[49],” the scented “arrar[49],” and the lentiscus or wild pistachio. The olive, walnut, orange, apricot and vine were also abundant.