I shall make a fresh effort to induce the young Sultan to introduce some reforms and improvements, but I have but faint hope of success, as the Ministers and satellites of the Court are either rogues or fools.
From my experience of Turkey and the Turks I confess I have little confidence in the beneficial effect of any attempt to introduce European grafts on the old Mohammedan stock. The tree which showed signs of vigour has been cut down, and the fruit of the European graft contains rather the evils than the virtues of both the West and the East.
When this letter was written, Sir John was already on his way to Fas. On March 3, 1875 he left Tangier, accompanied by several members of his family, some personal friends[51], and the officers appointed by the British Government to attend the Mission.
The reception at Fas was magnificent, some six thousand troops having been sent to do honour to the Representative of Great Britain; but what was more pleasing to him and greatly enhanced the effect of the entry, was the presence of the citizens of Fas, who had come to meet him in their thousands, bringing with them their wives and children; to show, they said, their appreciation of his friendship and love of justice. The shrill ‘zagharit’ continually raised by the women as Sir John passed through the crowd, attended by his staff and escort, completely drowned at times the sound of the brass band which the Sultan had sent to play before the procession. Soon after the instalment of the Mission at Fas, the incident occurred which Sir John relates as follows:—
‘When on my mission to the Court at Fas in 1875, the Uzir had selected the Kaid of an Arab regiment to command the guard of honour which had been appointed to attend on our Mission.
‘Another Kaid, named Meno, being superior in rank to the Arab Kaid, felt aggrieved that this post of confidence had not been offered to him; moreover, he had rendered important service to the Sultan, which he considered unrecognised, so he vowed vengeance on his rival.
‘The men of his regiment, all Berbers, were much attached to Kaid Meno, not only on account of his famed courage in battle, but also because whenever a razzia took place, Meno did not, like other chiefs, insist on having the lion’s share of the plunder, but left all to his followers.
‘On hearing of my arrival and the appointment of the Arab Kaid, Meno summoned a dozen stalwart men of his regiment and imparted to them, secretly, a scheme to bring disgrace upon the Arab officer and which they were to carry into execution. This was to the effect that they should rob a horse from the orchard where the cavalry mounts of my Tangier escort were picketed.
‘In this orchard was a summer-house where the English Medical Officer who accompanied the Mission had his quarters; as also the chief of our camp, a Moor from Tangier. The orchard was enclosed by a high wall, and at the gate several of the Arab guard were posted day and night.
‘“How are we to abstract a horse?” asked the Berbers. “Shall we cut the throats of the guard at night, force open the gate, and carry off the horse?”