Under the group heading "Laces, embroidery, and trimmings," the seven classes into which it was divided represented: Lace made by hand, laces, blond or guipure, wrought on pillow or with the needle or crochet, made of flax, cotton, silk, wool, gold, silver, or other threads. Laces made by machinery; tulles, plain or embroidered; imitation lace, blond and guipure, in thread of every kind. Embroidery made by hand; embroidery by needle or crochet, with thread of every kind, on all kinds of grounds (fabric, net, tulle, skin, etc.), including needlework upon canvas, as well as embroidery appliqué or ornamented with gems, pearls, jet, spangles of metal or other material, feathers, shells, etc. Embroidery made by machinery, with the foundation preserved, or with the foundation cut or burned away. Trimmings; galloons, lace or braids, fringes, tassels, all kinds of appliqué and ornamental work, handmade or woven, for millinery or garments, ecclesiastical vestments, civil or military uniforms; for furniture, saddlery, carriages, etc.; threads and plates of metal, gold or silver, real or imitation, spangles, chenilles, and all other articles used for trimmings. Church embroidery; church ornaments and linen; altar cloths, banners, and other objects for religious ceremonies in fabrics ornamented with lace, embroideries and trimmings. Curtains, with lace, guipure, or embroidery, upon tulle or fabrics; blinds, screens, portieres, lambrequins, and other draperies, ornamented with lace, embroidery, and trimmings.
Mrs. Wood writes:
Our jury was a large one—about thirty members. They came from France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, China, Japan, Great Britain, Mexico, Porto Rico; the other members were Americans, and represented the different States. The work we were to do was what was known as "groups 58 and 59," and covered so much ground we found that in order to finish in the required time we would have to divide our jury, so that some were detailed to examine embroidery, others costumes, trimming, laces, etc. I was on the lace committee. Laces made by hand, wrought on pillows, by needle or crochet, silk, wool, gold, silver, or thread, machine-made laces, imitation, embroidered tulles, and lace curtains. It would be impossible to describe the beauties of the lovely laces, the time, patience, and labor given to them. We examined the exhibits in the Manufacturers' Building, Varied Industries, all foreign buildings. The work done by women in the Philippines, Porto Rico, Mexican and Alaskan exhibits was as fine in texture and as beautiful as imported laces. The work in every instance was as handsome as that shown at the Chicago World's Fair, but perhaps not on so large a scale.
I was a member of a committee of four appointed to adjust the losses on the handsome imported costumes and wraps in the French section that were damaged during a wind and rain storm that swept over the exposition grounds during the summer and damaged the building and the immense glass cases containing these valuable goods, the loss of which amounted to hundreds of dollars to the Exposition Company.
Group 59 (combined with Group 58 above), Mrs. William S. Major,
Shelbyville, Ind., Juror.
Under the group heading "Industries producing wearing apparel for men, women, and children," the four classes into which it was divided represented: Clothing to measure for men and boys; ordinary costumes, suits for hunting and riding, leather breeches and similar articles; suits for gymnastic uses and games, military and civil uniforms, campaign clothing of special types, robes and costumes for magistrates, members of the bar, professors, ecclesiastics, etc., liveries, various costumes for children. Clothing, ready-made, for men and boys. Clothing to measure for women and girls; dresses, vests, jackets, cloaks (made by ladies' tailors, dressmakers, or cloak makers), riding habits, sporting suits. Clothing, ready-made, for women and girls. Patterns.
Mrs. Major reports as follows:
In group 58, Department of Manufactures, the proportional number of exhibits by women contained in these classes was small—I would think about 10 per cent. Groups 58 and 59 exhibited laces, embroideries, trimmings, decorations for gowns, costumes, and wraps, drawn work and Tenneriffe. Art needlework was the most striking exhibit by women in that department. Women showed great advancement in each industry, without question. Very few exhibits were installed by foreign women; the foreign costumes were largely from the man tailor. The needlework in the Visayan Village of the Philippine exhibit was of a very high order, but no provision was made to grant awards upon this—the Philippine exhibit—and Miss Anna Woolf, of St. Louis, and I called the attention of the authorities to the deserving character of the exhibit and made a plea for awards to be made by the higher jurors, and they promised to do so. I do not know whether it was done or not, however, but there was no woman's work in the whole Louisiana Purchase Exposition more deserving or of higher grade than the needlework in that village exhibit. Enough can not be said of these little workers. The present age is one of superiority, in which women not only show their ability, but each year they are granted more, and more widespread becomes their ability to grasp all vocations and fill them most creditably.
I am confident there was no question of the interest shown by men in woman's work; in fact, I think it attracted more visitors, and the results would not have been better if their work had been separately exhibited.
The work shown at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was on a much greater and higher plane than ever has been exhibited before. Where women exhibited they received a greater number of awards in proportion. Miss Mary Williamson was an original designer of artistic needlework, showing exceptional talent, and was awarded a grand prix for her designs.