To become an expert body finisher the workman should possess varnish intelligence. He should know how to keep cool; be an absolute stranger to varnish fright, never lacking for confidence or ability to successfully meet and master emergencies as they arise. The art of varnishing cannot be acquired in a day, or an hour, or simply by a studious perusal of carefully worded directions. These serve as a working draft, but must be supplemented by long-continued practice, and, in case of carriage body finishing, coupled with a natural aptitude for the work.
VARNISHING RUNNING PARTS.
The running parts of a vehicle having rounded surfaces are more easily made to shine fine and mirror-like than are the body surfaces. However, the varnishing of running parts may rightfully be classed a highly skilled operation. Washing up and cleaning the running parts preparatory to varnishing is a difficult task. Around clips, bolt heads, axle ties, etc., pumice stone and dirt accumulations cling tenaciously, and thorough tooling with the wash brush and plenty of water is needed to fit such parts for varnishing. After washing, and once dusting over the running parts, touch with color all reaches of surface requiring it. When color patches are dry take a second duster, kept for this one dusting only, flip it lightly over the varnish-moistened left palm, and go over the surface carefully. If a particularly fine job, pass over the surface with the palms of the hands, having previously given them a slight wetting with the finishing varnish. This method illustrates the power of magnetic influence, and catches up flotillas of dust motes which the duster would possibly disturb, but not remove. In finishing the gear begin at the front axle and proceed to flow the whole front end before wiping up. This gives the varnish a chance to take its position on the surface, and the wiping up serves to level out the inequalities and remove the surplus. After the front, the rear, then the reach, and last the side bars, if any. A brush should be kept solely to wipe up the underside of axles, head blocks, spring bars, side bars, etc. In many factory shops the finishers wipe such parts with the palm of their hand. The varnish drippings are thus caught by the hand and distributed in the form of a glaze to the parts in question.
In varnishing wheels, which are always included in the term running parts, slip the wheel upon the revolving jack and, standing with the left side nearest the wheel and partly facing it, begin by flowing the sides and face of the spokes, reaching the brush well over to the back surface of the spokes. Then flow front of hub. Next the inside and face of the felloe. Now whirl the wheel so that its rear surface takes the place of the front. Catch up and close in with varnish all strips on the rear surface of spokes not flowed when the sides were done. Then flow rear of hub, and lastly, the back surface of felloe. Reverse position of wheel, slick up all places needing it, and set away on a second wheel jack, giving the wheel a sharp spin to better hold the flowed-on varnish in place. Four wheel jacks are necessary to flow wheels properly. Then, when the fourth jack is occupied, the wheel first done, having been given a good spinning and at least three half turns, may be set away in the rack, subject to no danger from runs or sags. When applying rubbing varnish it is advisable to flow not more than six or eight spokes before wiping up. About this proportion of surface for flowing and then wiping up should control in applying rubbing varnish to running parts.
CHAPTER VII.
DEPRAVITIES OF VARNISH: GRAINING OUT—CRACKING—SWEATING—DEADENING, ETC.—PITTING—ENAMELING, ETC.—SEEDY OR SPECKY—CRAWLING—WRINKLING, ETC.—RUNS, SAGS, ETC.—RIDGING, ETC.—PERISHING—CHIPPING—FIRE CHECKS—GREENING—BLOOMING—BLISTERS—SPOTTING, ETC., ETC.
GRAINING OUT.
The peculiar grain showing a condition of the surface which manifests itself after the job is finished arises from certain incompetent practices observed along in the early stages of painting, or from the use of wood not adapted to the needs of vehicle construction, as, for example, sappy or unseasoned wood. It is a principle of fine surfacing, substantiated by experience, that when a carriage body has been perfectly smoothed and leveled by the woodworker, it should be given a few hours, say four or five, before priming. This delay is to give the wood, subjected to unusual pressure during the surfacing process, an opportunity to expand and shape itself into a normal conformation. Upon high grade work it would be a good practice to first level thoroughly and set away in an unquestionably dry atmosphere for a few hours, and then have the woodworker apply a second sandpapering. Then after another interval of a few hours, prime thoroughly inside and out, top and bottom; in fact, wherever moisture might possibly find an entrance.
Graining out may come from priming too closely upon the completion of the woodworker's leveling process; or it may come from the dry wood having been exposed, after the surfacing process, to a "spell" of damp weather. The dry, porous timber absorbs enough wetness to raise the grain to such an extent that nothing short of a resurfacing will restore it to its normal smooth and perfect condition again. This wood, with its erect fibres or grain fairly visible to the eye upon a casual examination, if painted over and finished, dries out in time, and in doing so responds to the natural law of shrinkage.