THE CHEAPER CLASS WAGON
is painted by various processes in all of which the several knifing-in pigments are esteemed factors. A moderate cost method affording very neat surface results upon small paneled bodies, ribbed ones, etc., is executed by first giving the body a coat of some P. W. F., the filler being applied freely and at the proper time removed and the surface dried and cleaned up nicely with clean rags. The chamfers on ribbed bodies are gone over with the filler. The day following, the surface is given an application of knifing-in lead, the chamfers getting the same treatment as the flat surface. This knifing-in lead receives a very clean and smooth knifing, the labor of sandpapering being thus reduced to the minimum. This coat having dried, the nail holes and other indentations are next puttied. Sandpapering, first with No. 1/2 paper, lastly with No. 0, follows. This is made to suffice for a base to color upon, if a light color is desired. If a dark color is wished, a coat of lead, colored to a full slate color and mixed to dry "dead" or gloss free, is put on with a camel's-hair brush. This effectually dresses over and obliterates surface irregularities which might command attention upon dark surfaces, whereas upon light colored ones, built with a strong percentage of lead, they would pass unheeded.
The running parts get a primer consisting of lead, 2 parts; yellow ochre, 1 part; floated in raw linseed oil. The outer or more exposed parts are next draw-puttied with the regulation knifing lead, this to be followed in due course with regular carriage putty, being smoothly placed in nail holes and other cavities. Sandpapering next ensues and this, in turn, is followed with a gloss-lacking lead coat in which the final color is well represented.
Perhaps a still cheaper system, as practiced in a factory shop, may be wanted. If so, prime job throughout, body and gear, with a pigment strongly colored with the color to be used in painting the vehicle. This primer, for its liquid ingredients, should have raw linseed oil, 3/4; turpentine, 1/4; japan, 1 teaspoonful to each quart of the mixture. Stand the work aside in a warm room for at least 48 hours. Then thoroughly sandpaper with No. 1 paper, after which putty holes, etc. Now take the body surface and give it a coat of knifing lead made of dry white lead, 5/8; keg lead, 1/4; finely ground roughstuff filler, 1/8; rubbing varnish, 1/2; japan, 1/4; turpentine, 1/4; color this lead to meet final color. Exercise great care in cleaning off all surplus lead so that a very light polish with No. 1/2 sandpaper will suffice to insure adequate surface smoothness. This knifing lead will require thirty-six hours in which to dry reliably. Then reduce the consistency of quick rubbing varnish somewhat with turpentine, and apply a coat to the surface. With clean linen cloths wipe off the surface immediately. This varnish coat serves to act as a stopper and sealer-up of the knifing lead and putty, in addition to holding forth the subsequent color and varnish coats becomingly. One day after putting on this varnish coat rub the surface lightly with No. 0 sandpaper to flick off dirt atoms, etc., dust carefully, and lay the first coat of color, a strong binder of varnish being used in both the first and second coats of color. From this out, color, ornament, and finish in the usual way.
The running parts are draw-puttied on the priming coat, puttied, sandpapered in good shape, colored, and from thence out carried rapidly to a finish. This method affords a pretty acceptable finish, especially if tricked out with a neat turn of ornamentation and a fine show of varnish.
Again the practice is observed in some establishments of painting the running parts as just described and doing the body as follows: After priming as usual, a coat of roughstuff mixed of lead and filler, equal parts by weight, and rubbing varnish and japan, equal parts, thinning to an easy brushing consistency with turpentine, is applied. After giving this coat twenty-four hours to dry, sandpaper with No. 1/2 paper to clear off lumpy substances, etc. Clean off surface carefully and draw-putty with a mixture composed of dry white lead, 2/3; keg lead 1 1/3; liquids, rubbing varnish 2/3; japan, 1/3. This coat can be worked over in ten hours if necessary. Then apply two coats of roughstuff mixed as above suggested, the two coats being applied in one day if the limitations of time so demand. If it is wished to avoid the use of a guide coat, and at the same time enjoy whatever advantages are afforded by such a coat, give the last coat of roughstuff a strong dash of yellow ochre.
PAINTING HEAVY TRUCKS AND FARM WAGONS.
At present this class of vehicles is painted in a way differing considerably from that practiced formerly. Then durability was the chiefly considered virtue. Now that fickle and flighty feature of painting is an attainment no more earnestly worked for than is a high degree of excellence in color effects.
For trucks, while a wide range of colors are popular, radiant reds and yellows are apparently in the greatest favor. The wheels of such vehicles are best given a coat of raw linseed oil before the tires are set. The remaining running parts and the body parts are likewise coated with oil before the irons are fitted, whenever it is possible so to do. It is then easier to clean off grease daubs and finger marks left by the athletic blacksmith and his coy young assistant. Moreover, there is a saving of time gained by this method. The next coat should be a half-oil, half-turpentine lead coat tinted or shaded stoutly with the color to be used in painting the vehicle, unless the color is to be a yellow, in which case a pure white will be an entirely correct ground. If a better job is desired apply an extra coat of lead and an additional coat of rubbing varnish. Beautiful canary yellows are now seen on a great number of city truck running parts. These yellows can be purchased of the manufacturers ready for use, barring a simple thinning down with turps and the addition of a little varnish for a binder. Upon the first coat of lead, puttying should occur. If red or some equally positive color is to be used, color putty accordingly. If yellow, let the putty go white. Sandpaper and smooth surface down finely upon the first, and, if used, the second coat of lead. In using light colors, the mechanic will find it needful to keep clean hands, as the slightest smear makes a disfigurement not easily remedied. For first-class, solid jobs of canary or other delicate yellow, two coats of the flat color, and one coat of color-and-varnish will quite surely be required. The varnish coats when used clear should be very pale, in fact, colorless. Happily, it is now a comparatively easy matter to obtain varnishes specially adapted to light, sensitive yellow and white surfaces.
Many of my readers located in the provincial jobbing paint shop will have more or less of farm wagon painting to do. As a possible means of aiding them somewhat in getting the job ready for the color stage of the process, it may be said that when the job arrives at the paint shop, the first and most important thing is to prepare the surface for the first coat of oil and pigment. When possible it is advisable, as in case of heavy trucks, to coat the job, prior to fitting the irons with raw linseed oil. If anything, the average country blacksmith is given to a more lavish surface adornment of soot smears, valve oil chromos, and scorched quarter-sections than his city brother of hammer and tongs. Such surface defacements are all violent enemies of durability. Their sleek and clean removal is therefore imperative. To banish the oil and grease and soot smears, saturate a cloth in benzine and lightly wash the surface. This fluid will loosen and quickly remove, with the aid of a clean cloth for a final drying up, all the greasy substances. The scorched patches require a very thorough cleaning out, a piece of glass nicely answering, usually, for slicking off the carved wood. When the parts are freed from the burnt particles, touch them lightly with raw linseed oil, wipe dry with a bit of cloth, subsequently touching the places with shellac. The priming coat, or first pigment coat, rather, should be controlled by whatever color the job is to be painted. Putty on this coat. Then a lead coat still more heavily fortified with the final color is in order. A coat of color-and-varnish should suffice for a suitable base to stripe and finish upon, save in case an extra color coat and an extra varnish coat will be needed.