But then you must observe both place and time.

They're caught the finest when the moon is new;

The Lucrine far excel the Baian too.

Misenum shines in cray fish; Circe most

In oysters; scollops let Tarentum boast.

The culinary critic first should learn

Each nicer shade of flavour to discern:

To sweep the fish stalls is mere show at best

· · · · · ·

Unless you know how each thing should be drest.