Through Unknown Tibet

by M. S. Wellby

Auberge	A medicine for colds.
Bhoussa	Chopped straw.
Boortsa	A kind of heather.
Bully beef	Tinned beef.
Choudrie	Official in a bazaar.
Chuppaties	Unleavened bread.
Degchies	Cooking-pots.
Ecka	A two-wheeled native cart.
Ghi	Clarified butter.
Hallal	To kill according to Mohammedan form.
Hann	A variety of Tibetan vegetable.
K'ang	A raised platform used as a bed. There is a fire underneath it.
Kumbuk	A variety of Tibetan vegetable.
Numnah	Felt saddle-cloth.
Palan	A kind of saddle.
Poshteen	A fur coat.
Suleetah	Saddlebag.
Yakdan	Mule trunk.

INDEX

• A.
• [A-chia Fu-yeh], [285–6].
• Ali, Shukr. See [Shukr Ali].
• Allen, [398].
• Ann Pass, [56].
• Antelope considered as food, [180].
• Argoons, origin of, [32], [247].
• B.
• Baga Nor, [257].
• Baltal, [23].
• Bana tribes, [238–9], [247]; sham fight, [251]; [252], [255]; entering a camp of, [256], [257].
• Baramula, [4], [7], [10].
• Barkhalu, [104–5], [112], [114].
• Barong, [194], [215], [216], [219], [227], [234], [240], [246].
• Batoum, [388].
• Bayan Gol, [228], [240], [241], [247].
• Blue Lake. See [Koko Nor].
• Bota Pass, [223].
• Botham, Mr. and Mrs., [329].
• Botham, Mr., [329], [330–1].
• Bower, Major, [3], [78], [81].
• Bread in China, [324].
• Brown, Colonel, [411].
• Buddha, religion of: reincarnation test, [279]; [282]; etiquette, [288]; K'ombo, [291]; praying-wheels, [225], [291–2]; [295].
• Burhan Bota, [220], [233].
• Burhan Bota Pass, [223].
• Butterfield and Swire, [415], [416].
• C.
• Calcutta, [209], [2].
• Canton, [415], [421].
• Carville, Mr., [419].
• Cash, Chinese, [361], [363–4].
• Chagoti, [7].
• Cha-Ha-La-Po, [381], [385].
• Cha-Ha-Pa-La, [379], [384].
• Cha-ka-ri, [385].
• Chang, the, [188], [376].
• Chang Chenmo, [47].
• Chang Kia Tsai, [324], [331].
• Cha-tao, [385], [394].
• Chemre, [41], [47].
• Ch'enkook, [261].
• Chen-Lao-Pan, [263], [265], [267–8], [345], [363], [368], [371].
• China: Tibetan tribute, [208]; Tibetan trade with, [209–10].
• China Inland Mission, [330].
• Chinese peculiarities; etiquette, [265–6], [327–8]; official exemptions, [325]; money, [363–4]; school-teaching, [368]; inns, [372–3]; burial, [374], [402]; measurements, [386]; local terms, [388 (note)]; superstition (spirit's paper), [391–2]; method of rewarding by fame or infamy, [392]; contorted feet, [405].
• Chong-Chang-Tsi, [331].
• Chong Wei, [330–2], [335–6], [341] et seq., [372], [383].
• Chotenchenbo, [74].
• Chu, [301].
• Chulas. See [Fireplaces].
• [Chu Ma] River, [1], [165], [202], [234].
• Chumatang, [44], [47]. Crocus sativus, [14].
• Cunjian, [43], [47].
• Curzon, Right Hon. George, [7].
• D.
• Dapsoga, [223].
• Darjeeling, [292].
• [Dass], Lala Bishan, [32].
• Deasy, Captain, [65].
• Denbigh, Mr. [415].
• De Trouille de Rhins, [248], [296–7].
• Domel, [7].
• Donlung, [47].
• Dragon Colt's Island, [278].
• Dras, [24].
• E.
• Eggs in China, [372].
• Egu, [41], [47].
• [Esau] (Esa Tsareng), [32], [48], [54], [70], [101]; bears ill news, [106]; [112], [115–16], [121], [147], [149–50]; goes off with Malcolm in search of people, [173]; returns, [174]; [177], [184]; sent to reconnoitre a camp, [191], [192]; his report, [193–4]; [195–8], [201], [210], [224]; reconnoitring with Wellby, [228] et seq.; [255] et seq.; offers a contemptibly small tip, [261]; [316], [326], [338], [356], [379], [396], [417], [418], [422].
• F.
• [Fireplaces] (chulas), [92–3], [139], [185], [188], [221], [224].
• Flora collected in Tibet, [423].
• [Flower temple], [294].
• Forbes, Mr. W. H., [415].
• Forbes & Co., [263], [342], [345], [346], [353], [367].
• Fu, defined, [388 (note)].
• Fu T'ai, the, [284].
• Fu-yeh. See [Mina Fu-yeh], [Shertoch Fu-yeh], [A-chia Fu-yeh], and [Mété Fu-yeh].
• G.
• Gabet, [376], [392 (note)].
• Gagangir, [23].
• Galsworthy, Captain, [421].
• Goa considered as food, [180].
• [Gold-tiled temple], [283], [287] et seq.
• Golok, the, [215], [218–9].
• Gompa Soba, [258–9].
• Goond, [20].
• Great Wall of China, [383–4], [394], [396–7], [398].
• [Green glazed-tiled temple], [293].
• Grey, [398].
• Grosvenor, Hugh, [412].
• Gulf of Pe Chili, [329], [330], [393].
• Gunderbul, [19].
• Gya, [43], [47].
• Gya nullah, [42].
• H.
• Hadji, Bakr, [54], [65–6].
• Hall, Mr., [262], [297], [319–20].
• Hallaling, the bigotry of the men illustrated by, [57], [75], [128]; conquering prejudice, [139].
• Hankow, [412].
• Han-Shih-Pu, [331].
• Han-Uen-Sheo, [303].
• Hart, Sir Robert, [411].
• Hatuturgy, [255].
• Helmet Hill, [118].
• Hemis nullah, [41].
• Henston, Surgeon-Major, [416].
• Herma, [43], [47].
• Herring, Sergeant, [406] (text and [note]).
• Himalayas, Western, [273].
• Ho, General, [307], [309].
• Ho Cheo, [300], [314].
• Ho K'eo Tsi, [326].
• [Ho La], [263].
• Ho-Lo-Si T'ai, [380], [384].
• Hong Kong, [416], [420].
• Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Co., [416].
• Hoogly, the, [421].
• Ho Tsui Tsi, [325].
• Hsang Ho Ri, [270], [273].
• Hsian Fu, [330].
• Hsiao Hsia, [324].
• [Hsieht'ai], the (of Tankar), [265], [267–8].
• Hsien, defined, [388 (note)].
• Hsi Ho, [270].
• Hsing-Ping-Ho, [383], [385].
• Hsiun-Hua-Ting, [298], [300], [310].
• Huai-lai-hsien, [385].
• Hua Miao, [294].
• [Huang Ho], [326], [337], [355].
• Huc, [376], [392 (note)].
• Hunan, [274].
• Hunan soldiers, [309–10].
• Hunter, Mr., [329], [330].
• I.
• Ih-Tiao-Shan, [331].
• Ih-Uan-Chuen, [331].
• Iman Mula, [110].
• [Indus], [28], [40] et seq.
• Io-kia-t'ong, [385].
• Irwin, Dr., [416].
• J.
• Jesus Christ, the point of reconciliation with Tsong K'aba, [292].
• Jhelum, [7].
• Juma, [113].
• K.
• Kaba, [51].
• Kangan, [20].
• Kanjur Rungyum, [252].
• Kanoo, [246].
• Kansu, [273–4], [375]. See also [Mohammedan Rebellion].
• K'an-T'ang-Tsi, [331].
• Kargil, [27].
• Keisir, [44], [47].
• Kera, [43], [47].
• Kerambutabuk, [72].
• Kerinagar, [74].
• Khalsi, [28].
• Kharbu, [27].
• Khe, an innkeeper, [401].
• Khotan, [79].
• Ki-mio-si, [385].
• Knight, E. F., [23].
• [Koko Nor], [280], [311].
• Koko Nor Lake, [238], [252], [255], [257], [278].
• Koko Nor, Prince of, his daughter, [269]; [283].
• Kuei Hua Cheng, [374], [376], [384].
• Kuei-Tê, [280].
• Kuen Lun, [109], [110].
• [Kumbum], a visit to the monastery of, [269] et seq.
• Kushok, the, [204] et seq.
• Kyang (wild ass): described, [61]; considered as food, [179–80].
• Kyrma, [243].
• L.
• Labrang, [208 (note)].
• Ladakh, [18], [19], [56], [62], [63], [78], [79], [80], [89], [193], [222], [285], [335].
• Lakes unnamed, [84] (fresh); [85] (salt); [92] (salt); [93] (fresh); [98] et seq. (fresh); [123] (two fresh); [125] (fresh); [129] (nearly fresh); [131–2] (dried-up salt bed); [133] (big salt); [138] (fresh); [146] (larger shallow salt); [156] (brackish); [158] (fresh); [174] and [176–7] (fresh).
• Lala Bishan Dass, See [Dass].
• Lama of Chumatang, [44].
• Lamayuru, [28].
• Lanak La, [73], [75], [78] et seq., [93], [95], [141].
• Lancheo, [114], [265], [297], [299], [305], [314], [315–6], [320], [324], [327–9], [331], [348], [372].
• Lassoo, [32], [62], [106], [113], [147], [149–50], [182–3], [185], [191], [221], [224], [228–9], [324], [338], [379], [417], [419], [421–2].
• Leh, [12], [13], [19] et seq., [28] et seq., [48], [51], [54], [55], [75], [107], [144], [189], [264], [422].
• Leh, Wazir of, [112].
• Lhassa, [31], [47], [69], [78], [130], [148–9], [153], [156], [193], [204], [208 (note)], [209], [210], [233], [262–3], [267], [290], [292–3].
• Li, General, [306] et seq.
• Li, nature of distance in, [386].
• Liang-Cheo, [299].
• Lickse, [42], [43], [47].
• Lighten, Lake, [91].
• Lin-Hsien-Sheng. See [Rijnhart, Peter].
• Littledale, St. George, [7], [48], [112], [148], [323], [328], [348], [351].
• Lobsan (Dsun Choni Lama), [233] et seq., parting from, [316].
• Lou Ya, [324].
• Ludhkong, [49], [52] et seq.
• Lumberg, Mr., [348], [351], [354]; his servant, [354].
• Lusam Kindum, [263], [267].
• Lusar, [291].
• Lu-Tong-Tsi, [331].
• M.
• Macartney, Captain, [335].
• Macdonald, Sir Claude and Lady, [406], [411].
• Macdonald, Lady, [412].
• Machahoi, [24].
• Ma Chu. See [Chu Ma].
• Ma Huei Tsi, [325–6], [331].
• Maie, [45], [47].
• Malcolm, Lieutenant, [1]; joins Wellby, [14]; leaves him at Srinagar, [19]; swims across the Indus, [44], [45]; pigeon-missing, [46]; kills an antelope, [75], [99]; shoots a yak 79, [182]; [89]; doctoring Sulloo, [106]; well-digging, [107]; [113], [121], [123], [128], [134], [147], [149]; discovers poisoned mules, [160]; [167], [168–9]; shoots a kyang, [170], [173], [189], [224]; goes off in search of people, [173]; returns, [174]; [177], [181], [192], [201], [210]; sells a spoonful of brandy, [211]; shoots a bear, [225]; sets off reconnoitring with Lassoo, [228] et seq.; rejoins Wellby with the Mongols, [232]; [241], [255–6], [263]; arrives at Tankar, [264]; receives a present from Lusam Kindum, [267]; [320], [327], [341]; at Pao T'eo, [368]; [379–80], [398], [421].
• Malik, Mahomed, [7], [11], [20].
• Manasbal, [20].
• Māné, [181].
• Mangtza-Tso, [66], [69].
• Marmots, [169], [186–7].
• Marsemik La, [47].
• Mason, Mr., [329].
• Metaiun, [24].
• [Mété Fu-yeh], [290].
• [Mina Fu-yeh], [270] et seq.
• Mir, Duffadar Shahzad, [17], [19], [32], [46], [54], [78], [95], [113], [119]; strange cure for a stomach-ache, [144]; [147], [148], [150], [155], [184], [191]; the Kushok inquires why he carries the square table, [216]; [226], [228], [326], [338], [346]; mistaken for a Salar at Chong Wei, [351]; [379–80]; missing, [390] et seq.; reappearance, [394]; his opinion of the Chinese, [405]; [419], [422].
• Mitpah Conmah, [60].
• Mitpah Yungmah, [60].
• Mi-tour-chon, [384].
• [Mohammedan Rebellion], [274], [286], [289], [294], [296–7]; the history of the, [298] et seq.
• Monasteries, [27], [28], [269] et seq.
• Mongol Camp (long), [384].
• Mongol Camp (short), [385].
• Mongols, the, their marriage and death ceremonies, [245].
• Mulbeck, [27].
• Mules, varieties at Leh, [31]; affection between mule and pony, [55–6]; pathetic death of a mule, [83]; more deaths, [85], [88–9]; a mutinous mule, [102]; more deaths, [117], [119]; reduced to twelve animals, [125]; mules reduced to three by poison, [160–1]; a troublesome survivor, [177–8]; weights borne by Chinese mules, [315–16].
• Mun, [51].
• Murree, [7].
• N.
• Namoran Dawan (Pass), [223].
• Namoran Gol, [227], [233].
• Nanchang, the, [416] et seq.
• Nan-Kou, [385], [398], [402].
• Nan-Kou Pass, [397].
• Nant-sing-ho, [385].
• Napu La, [60], [64], [72], [74], [75], [76], [77].
• Ni, [44], [47].
• Niagzu, [49], [52], [53], [56] et seq., [141], [212].
• Nicotine Kontal, [252].
• Niempe, [305], [331].
• Nimbri (the Kushok's servant), [200–2], [207], [210], [212], [215], [218].
• Ning-Shia district, [359].
• Ning-Shia-Fu, [335], [342], [345], [354].
• Noring Hol, [248].
• Nowshera, [1], [422].
• Numa, [45], [47].
• Nurla, [28].
• Nurtse, [61].
• O.
• Ootoo, [241].
• Ordos country, [342].
• P.
• Pal, [48].
• Palans, effect of friction on animals and suggested improvement, [76].
• Palgez, Munshi, [35].
• Pamir Commission, [17].
• Pangong Lake, [34], [47], [48], [49], [54], [56], [148].
• [P'an Ku], [296].
• Pao T'eo, [114], [342], [345], [354], [360], [365–6]; in the city, [367] et seq.; [379], [384].
• [Peh Ma Ssï], [323].
• Peh-sie-ki, [384].
• Pekin, [280], [323], [364], [371–2], [376], [380], [384–5], [391], [394–5], [398]; in the city, [406]; [411], [412], [415].
• Penang, [421].
• Peshawar, [13].
• Ping-Chong-i, [304–6].
• Ping-Fang, [305].
• Polu road, [79].
• Ponies, death of two, [80]; death of the black mule's friend, [85]; more deaths, [89]; death of last pony, [161].
• Porandu Pass, [54].
• Port Said, [365].
• Precious Hill, the, [283].
• Prjevalsky, Colonel, [183].
• Pu, defined, [388].
• Q.
• Quarry Bay, [420].
• R.
• Rahim, Mahomed, threatens to turn back, [96]; terrible result of wrangling, [106]; [112], [115], [117]; despatched to scout, [131]; return, [132–3]; [154].
• Ralma, [47].
• Ramzana, [10].
• Rawal Pindi, [1], [4].
• Renki Yang Hong, [367].
• Ridley, Mr., [297], [316] et seq.
• Ridley, Mrs., [297], [304–5]; farewell to, [320]; [324].
• Rijnhart, Dr., [269].
• [Rijnhart, Peter], [261] et seq.; [320] et seq.; services as interpreter at Chong Wei, [345–7], [351]; anecdote of a lapsus linguæ, [352–3]; [359], [364], [368], [376], [379–80], [382], [386–7], [396], [398], [402]; his departure, [411–12].
• Rockhill, W. W., [227], [260], [287 (note)], [294 (note)], [323] (text and [note]).
• Roorkee, [114].
• Ruby (fox terrier bitch), [3], [23], [75]; has pups, [78]; [99], [117], [166], [168], [224], [241], [246]; lost, [337], [341].
• Rudok, [47], [48], [60]; officials from, [69] et seq.
• Rundore, [66], [70], [74].
• Rupees, curious predilection for crownless, [242], [260].
• Russul, Ghulam, [112], [115], [127], [132]; treachery of, [148].
• S.
• Sa-cheng, [385].
• Sacred tree, [287].
• Sakya Muni, [279 (note)], [287–8], [398].
• Salaki, [372], [384].
• Salars, insurrection of, [299]; loyalists, [304], [314].
• Saspul, [28].
• Seling Amban. See [Koko Nor] (Prince of).
• [Selling Gompa], [248].
• Ser, [223].
• Sha-ho, [385].
• Shanghai, [330–1].
• Shang Tan, [323], [325], [331].
• Shan-Kia-Tong, [331].
• Shantong, [311].
• Sheep, the last, [98–9]; sacrificed, [108].
• Shen-Chong, [308].
• Sherchichaba, [263].
• [Shertoch Fu-yeh], [281].
• Sherwos, [42], [47].
• Shey, [40].
• Shih-Tsui-Tsi, [342], [363], [365], [372], [381].
• Shih-Rong-Wa, [379], [384].
• Shishi, [241].
• Shuen-hua-fu, [385], [388] (text and [note]), [392].
• Shuga Gol. See [Shugatza].
• [Shugatza], [212], [214], [218], [220–22].
• Shui-Peh-Ho, [331], [336].
• Shui-Tsui-Tsi, [345].
• [Shukr Ali], [18]; installed as cook, [20]; [54], [107], [112], [115], [117], [132]; readmitted to service, [154–5]; [184], [191], [316], [326]; paid off, [335].
• Shushal, [34], [45], [49], [148].
• Shushot, [40], [47], [50].
• Siao Hsia, [304].
• Siao-si-fu, [385], [388 (note)], [389–90].
• Si Ho, [320], [323], [326].
• Sin Chen, [376].
• Sin Ch'eng, [326] et seq., [331].
• Sind Valley, [20].
• Singapore, [421].
• Sining, [208], [264]; Fu of, [284]; [292], [297] et seq., [317], [319], [331].
• [Sining Amban], [238], [284].
• Sining Ho, [257].
• Sining, the Tao Tai, [298–9], [303].
• Sin-Tien-Pu, [301].
• Si-Yang Ho, [384].
• Sokpor Mongols. See [Tsokpo].
• Sonamerg, [23].
• Southern Valley, [296].
• Srinagar, [7] et seq., [19].
• Su-kia-pu, [309].
• Sulloo, terrible accident to, [106] et seq., [113], [120], [121]; refuses to travel any more, [122], [127], [129].
• Sumud Shah family, [10], [11].
• Swedish Mission-house at Pao T'eo, [367] et seq.
• T.
• Ta Ho, [264].
• T'ah-rï-sï, [308].
• T'ah Ri Ssi. See [Kumbum].
• Ta Hsia, [324].
• Ta Koe Ri, [270].
• Ta-La-Pai, [331].
• Talé Lama, the, [210], [270].
• T'ang, Colonel, [306].
• Tanjun, [65].
• Tankar, [194], [209 (note)], [210], [215], [246], [255], [257–9], [261–5], [269–70], [317], [342], [364], [365].
• Tankar, Mayor of, [264–5].
• Ta-ri-tsi, [384].
• Ta Sand. See [Ho La].
• Tashgam, [27].
• Ta T'ung, [325].
• Temple of the God of Literature, [301].
• Temples. See [Gold-Tiled Temple], [Green Glazed-Tiled Temple], [Flower Temple], [Temple of Pan Ku], [Peh Ma Ssï]; curious Buddhist temple, [375–6].
• Teng, General, [299] et seq.
• Tents, abandoned, [95].
• Teo-tao-keo, [385].
• Theodolite, breaking of, [135].
• Tibetans: routine of the camp, [204] et seq.; courtesy and honesty, [208].
• Tickse, [40], [41], [47].
• Tien Tsin, [330], [385], [411], [416].
• Ting, defined, [388 (note)].
• Tippoo, [18], [23].
• Tiri, [44].
• Tokhta, [13], [19], [112], [113–15], [121]; refuses to travel any more, [122]; [127], [129].
• Tong Hills, [213].
• Tong Ku, [416], [417].
• To-Pa, [301], [310], [313].
• Tour-tsi, [384].
• Treb, Lake, [63], [76], [77].
• Trench, Captain, [18], [75].
• Tsaidam, [1], [215], [219–221], [227], [234], [264], [280], [316 (note)].
• Ts'ai T'a, [263].
• Tsang-po-chu. See [Indus].
• Tsareng, Esa. See [Esau].
• [Tsokpo] Mongols, [229] et seq.
• Tsong K'aba, [283], [287–90], [292].
• Tsongt'u. See [Sining Amban].
• Tuling. See [Selling Gompa].
• Tuling Gol, [246], [247].
• Tundu, [75].
• Turkistan, [73], [130], [187], [248].
• U.
• Uang, Major, [299].
• Uei-Kuang-Tao, General, [309], [310].
• Umballa, [1].
• Upchi, [42], [47].
• Usman, [35], [36], [113], [143].
• V.
• Vaughan, [38].
• W.
• Walker, [398].
• Ward, [38].
• Wei Fou T'ai, General, [274].
• Wellby, Captain: engages men, [7], [13]; falls from his horse, [42]; warned, [48–9]; consultation with Rudok officials, [72]; retreats across the Napu La, [74] et seq.; goes in search of lost animals, [89]; bathing, [99]; yak-shooting, [117], [139], [182], [211]; leaving the sick men behind, [122]; shooting running antelope, [128]; desertion of the muleteers, [147]; reappearance of deserters, [152–5]; rearranges the loads after calamitous death of mules, [161–2]; in lack of food, [168]; shoots hares, [169], [177]; difficult conquest of a kyang, [176]; discovers a māné, [181]; shoots a goa, [183]; crossing a difficult river, [184]; signs of an encampment, [188]; with the Tibetan merchants, [197] et seq.; quits the Kushok's camp, [219]; comes across signs of an unfortunate caravan, [222]; observes a large prayer-wheel in a stone building, [225]; sets off with Esau to reconnoitre, [228]; meets some young Mongols, [229] et seq.; first sight of Mongol tents, [241]; in Lobsan's family tent, [243]; appropriates an inscribed bone in a wonderful cave, [252]; the coldest night, [255]; entering a Bana camp, [256]; arrives at Tankar, [259]; Mr. Rijnhart, [261] et seq.; visits the monastery of Kumbum, [269] et seq.; ghastly signs of the Mohammedan Rebellion, [296]; Mr. and Mrs. Ridley, [297]; first experience of a Chinese inn, [323]; loses Ruby, [337]; vexations at Chong Wei, [346–7]; on the Yellow River, [354] et seq.; Pao T'eo, [367] et seq.; reaches Pekin, [406]; carters arrested and beaten, [412], [415]; arrival at Tong Ku, [417]; on board the Nanchang, [418]; at Hong Kong, [420]; Singapore, [421]; Calcutta, [421–2].
• "Where Three Empires Meet," [23].
• White Horse Temple. See [Peh Ma Ssï].
• Whitewashing, strange way of, [286].
• Wo-Ku-Shan-Ho, [383].
• Wolf, Eugène, [412].
• Wu La, [273].
• Wupu, [264].
• Wu Tai, temple of, [375].
• Y.
• Yak: cemetery, [175]; considered as food, [177], [179], [181]; shooting, is it dangerous?, [183–4].
• Yakiki, [43], [47].
• Yang, Colonel. See [Hsieht'ai].
• Yangtse Kiang, [1], [234].
• Yarkand, [335].
• Yellow River. See [Huang Ho].
• Yellow Sect, [288].
• Younghusband, Captain, [17], [18].
• Z.
• Zoji La Pass, [23], [24].

SKETCH MAP
OF
TIBET and NORTHERN CHINA
Showing the journey of
CAPT. M. S. WELLBY and LIEUT. MALCOLM
from Leh to Peking.

Map to accompany "Through Unknown Tibet"

[View larger image]

MAP SHOWING
CAPT. M. S. WELLBY'S and LT. MALCOLM'S ROUTE
ACROSS
NORTHERN TIBET.