For the chapter on the Mohammedan rebellion in China, my thanks are due to my friend Mr. Ridley, of the "China Inland Mission," who lived in the very midst of the scene of trouble, and who kindly allowed me to make every use of his notes. They are likewise due to Sir Claude and Lady Macdonald, whose kindness and hospitality in Pekin can never be forgotten, and lastly, to those three faithful ones who stuck to us through thick and thin.

The names of Duffadar Shahzad Mir, Lassoo, and Esa Tsareng—known throughout as "Esau"—will always call to my mind three men without whom this journey could never have been accomplished, and in saying this I know that I am also expressing the feelings of my companion, Lieut. Malcolm.

M. S. WELLBY,
Capt. 18th Hussars.

Waziristan,
November, 1897.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
CHAPTER I.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY—MALCOLM GOES ON AHEAD[1]
CHAPTER II.
BALTAL—LEH—I REJOIN MALCOLM—THE CHINESE PASSPORTARRIVES [20]
CHAPTER III.
FOLLOWING THE INDUS—EGU—WAITING AT SHUSHAL—AWARNING[40]
CHAPTER IV.
MUN—LUDHKONG—TOUCHING FRIENDSHIP OF MULE AND PONY—NIAGZU[50]
CHAPTER V.
MORTALITY AMONG SHEEP—LAKE TREB—THE NAPU LA PASS—SICKNESSOF BAKR HADJI—RUDOK OFFICIALS COMMAND USTO RETREAT[60]
CHAPTER VI.
OUR RETREAT—CROSSING THE BORDERLAND OF TIBET—ASTRANGE ACCOUCHEMENT—SPORT—PONIES SHOT[74]
CHAPTER VII.
A COLD NIGHT—DEATH OF MULE—A FRESH-WATER LAKE—BADWEATHER—DEATH OF THE FAVOURITE WHITE PONY—BYA SALT LAKE—ILLNESS OF TOKHTA—I SEARCH FORMISSING ANIMALS[81]
CHAPTER VIII.
LAKE LIGHTEN—INTENSE HEAT—AN OLD FIREPLACE—SERIOUSACCIDENT THROUGH OVER-HASTE OF MULES TO DRINK—ACOUP D'ŒIL—THE FIRST FLOWER—OUR PET SHEEP—ANOTHERFRESH-WATER LAKE—A PLEASANT BATH—DEATHOF ANIMALS AND DEARTH OF GRAIN[90]
CHAPTER IX.
TERRIBLE GUN ACCIDENT—WE SEND OUT SCOUTS[104]
CHAPTER X.
I SHOOT A YAK—DEATH OF ANOTHER MULE—"HELMET HILL"—WELEAVE TOKHTA AND SULLOO BEHIND—REDUCED TOTWELVE ANIMALS—A MULE'S ADVENTURE[116]
CHAPTER XI.
SHOOTING AN ANTELOPE—SNOW—A MYSTERIOUS TRACK—THEBED OF AN ANCIENT LAKE—EMOTION OF MAHOMED RAHIM—VARIABLEWEATHER—MORE ANTELOPES SHOT—THEODOLITEBROKEN—EXTRAORDINARILY SUDDEN WIND—HUNGERv. CEREMONY—NEW FINDS[127]
CHAPTER XII.
A FOOTPRINT—SHAHZAD MIR INDISPOSED—DESERTION OF MULETEERS—ARAINY NIGHT[141]
CHAPTER XIII.
RETURN OF THE DESERTERS—SHUKR ALI—LONG MARCHES—DEATHOF EIGHT MULES AND A PONY—A CHEERING REPAST[152]
CHAPTER XIV.
A SERPENTINE RIVER—HUNGER—MARMOTS—A PLEASANTCAMPING[164]
CHAPTER XV.
SHOOTING—A TROUBLESOME MULE—A YAK CEMETERY—I CHASEA KYANG—TENDER HEARTS—INSCRIBED STONES—LASSOOAND SHUKR ALI SICK—AN ARDUOUS CROSSING[172]
CHAPTER XVI.
ANOTHER CHULA—MOUNTAINS—A QUEER ILLUSION—STRANGEVOICES—WE FIND WE ARE DESCENDING—A TIBETAN CAMP—ESAUSENT AS AN AMBASSADOR—AN INVITATION[185]
CHAPTER XVII.
WE CATCH UP THE MERCHANT'S CAMP—TIBETAN HOSPITALITY—WEFIND THAT WE HAVE DISCOVERED THE SOURCE OF THECHU MA—BARGAINING[195]
CHAPTER XVIII.
MANAGEMENT OF THE TIBETAN CARAVAN—TEA WITH THE MERCHANT—SHUGATZARIVER—FRICTION—AN ALARM[204]
CHAPTER XIX.
WE LEAVE THE KUSHOK—A USELESS CLIMB—SIGNS OF ADISASTROUS JOURNEY—A HOUSE OF PRAYER—MALCOLMSHOOTS A BEAR—ANXIETY FOR FOOD[218]
CHAPTER XX.
FOLLOWING THE NAMORAN—WE SPLIT INTO THREE PARTIES—WEMEET SOME YOUNG MONGOLS—THEIR HOSPITALITY—LOBSAN—THEBANA TRIBES[227]
CHAPTER XXI.
WITH THE MONGOLS—A HOSPITABLE OLD LADY—ON THE WAY TOTANKAR—A POISONOUS STREAM—BANA TENTS—I ABSTRACTAN INSCRIBED BONE—OUR COLDEST NIGHT—A WONDERFULPLACE—KANJUR RUNGYUM[240]
CHAPTER XXII.
ESAU AND I SET OFF—RECEPTION FROM THE BANAS—WE ARRIVEAT TANKAR—A FRIENDLY GUIDE—AN ABSURD TIP—DR. RIJNHART—TEAWITH LHASSA OFFICIALS—ARRIVAL OF MALCOLMAND THE MONGOLS—CHEN-LAO-PAN—CHINESE ETIQUETTE[256]
CHAPTER XXIII.
A VISIT TO CHEN-LAO-PAN—COLONEL YANG—THE DAUGHTER OFPRINCE KOKO NOR—A VISIT TO THE MONASTERY OF KUMBUM[267]
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE STORY OF THE FIRST BUDDHA OF THE EMPIRE—THE SACREDTREE—THE GOLD-TILED TEMPLE—PARTING FROM MINAFU-YEH—THE GREEN GLAZED-TILE TEMPLE—THE FLOWERTEMPLE—SIGNS OF THE MOHAMMEDAN REBELLION—AT THEMISSION HOUSE[285]
CHAPTER XXV.
THE MOHAMMEDAN REBELLION IN CHINA, 1895–6[298]
CHAPTER XXVI.
PARTING FROM LOBSAN—STARTING FOR LANCHEO—A RUINEDSUBURB—GOOD DONE BY MISSIONARIES—WE TAKE LEAVEOF MR. RIDLEY—OUR FIRST CHINESE INN[315]
CHAPTER XXVII.
SHANG TAN—HO TSUI TSI—FIRST VIEW OF THE YELLOW RIVER—ONA RAFT—AT LANCHEO—A TELEGRAPH TROUBLE[325]
CHAPTER XXVIII.
WE PAY OFF SHUKR ALI—LANCHEO TO CHONG WEI—OFFICIALINCIVILITY—LOSE RUBY—SHAHZAD MIR MISTAKEN FOR AREBEL[332]
CHAPTER XXIX.
MISSIONARY YARNS—CHEAP LIVING—ON THE YELLOW RIVERAGAIN—CASH[352]
CHAPTER XXX.
PAO T'EO—THE SWEDISH MISSION-HOUSE—CHINESE SCHOOLS—CHINESEINNS—CHINESE BURIAL—KUEI HUA CHENG—FRICTIONWITH CARTERS—WE LEAVE THE MONGOL COUNTRY—THEGREAT WALL[367]
CHAPTER XXXI.
HOW TO MANAGE INNKEEPERS AND CARTERS—SHUEN-HUA-FU—"SPIRIT'SPAPER"—SHAHZAD MIR LOST AND FOUND—ESAU'SPRESTIGE[386]
CHAPTER XXXII.
A TRUCULENT INNKEEPER—A SEDAN CHAIR—CHINESE WOMENAND THEIR FEET—PEKIN—DEPARTURE OF RIJNHART—CARTERSEARN A BEATING[398]
CHAPTER XXXIII.
BACK TO INDIA—DISILLUSIONMENT OF OUR FOLLOWERS WITHREGARD TO SOME OF THE BLESSINGS OF CIVILIZATION—MILITARYHOSPITALITY—RETURN TO CALCUTTA[415]
APPENDICES[423]
INDEX[437]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
CAPTAIN WELLBY[Frontispiece]
THE KUSHOK'S COOK[Title]
LIEUTENANT MALCOLM[Facing 1]
CLUB OF NORTHERN INDIA, MURREE, IN SNOW[5]
VIEW TOWARDS FIFTH BRIDGE, SRINAGAR[8]
A MERCHANT'S HOUSE IN SRINAGAR[9]
MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE, SRINAGAR[11]
HINDU TEMPLE, SRINAGAR[12]
ON THE RIVER, SRINAGAR[14]
DUFFADAR SHAHZAD MIR, 11TH BENGAL LANCERS[15]
SHUKR ALI[18]
THE GLACIERS, SONAMERG[21]
FIRST SIGNS OF BUDDHISM BEYOND LEH, AT MULBECK[25]
BRIDGE OVER THE SURV RIVER AT KARGIL, ON THE ROAD TO LEH. BRIDGE ON CANTILEVER PATTERN[29]
SHAHZAD MIR AND OUR TEN MEN[33]
CHINESE PASSPORT, ONE AND A HALF FEET SQUARE[37]
MY RED CHINESE VISITING CARD, FIVE INCHES BROAD AND TEN INCHES LONG[38]
ON THE BORDERS OF TIBET; OUR CAMP AT NIAGZU[57]
CROSSING THE NAPU LA (18,500 FEET HIGH)[64]
OUR THREE RUNDORE GUIDES[67]
KERAMBUTABUK[71]
LAKE "LIGHTEN" (WE LIGHTENED OUR LOADS HERE)[91]
17TH JUNE. THREE OF OUR TENTS ARE ABANDONED AT THIS SPOT[95]
WE CAMP IN A GRASSY NULLAH[98]
A DAY'S HALT BY A FRESH-WATER LAKE[100]
OUR MULES BEING WATERED[109]
WE CAMP IN A WILDERNESS AND STEER FOR "HELMET HILL"[118]
MALCOLM AT BREAKFAST WITH ESAU[121]
WE CAMP BY TWO FRESH-WATER POOLS[124]
TWO ANTELOPES ARE SHOT CLOSE TO CAMP[135]
SHAHZAD MIR AT WORK[145]
AUTOGRAPH OF THE BUDDHA, page 275[151]
THE LAST CAMP OF OUR TWELVE MULES[159]
RUBY[165]
A DEAD ANTELOPE[180]
AN ENORMOUS YAK[183]
THE KUSHOK'S TAME YAK[200]
SOME MEMBERS OF THE KUSHOK'S CAMP[213]
TSOKPO MONGOLS LIVING IN THE BUSH[231]
MALCOLM ENGAGES ATTENTION OF MONGOLS WITH "CADBURY": THEY THINK IT IS SNUFF[235]
MONGOL LADIES ON THE BAYAN GOL[238]
MONGOL CAMP: ONE OF OUR HALTS[249]
THREE REMAINING MULES AT KOKO NOR[253]
BUDDHIST PRAYER-WHEEL, WITH SCARF OF BLESSING[268]
DR. RIJNHART. DAUGHTER OF THE PRINCE OF KOKO NOR[269]
BRIDGE IN CHINA, FIVE MILES FROM TANKAR. MISSIONARY AND MULE ON BRIDGE[271]
BRIDGE OF SHANG-HO-RI (SOUNDING RIVER) ON THE ROAD TO TANKAR[273]
AUDIENCE ROOM OF THE KAMBO (ABBOT) OF KUMBUM[275]
MINA FU-YEH (BUDDHA)[277]
CHORTENS OF KUMBUM[286]
KUMBUM[287]
TWO SMALL SHRINES, WITH NUMBERS OF PRAYER-WHEELS[291]
PRAYER-WHEELS, BOARDS, ROSARY FROM LUSAR[295]
RUINS OF THE E. SUBURB OF SINING[318]
A SEDAN CHAIR[321]
THE ONLY WAY TO DRIVE IN NORTH CHINA[333]
ON THE ROAD FROM LANCHEO, CHINA[339]
STREET IN THE TONG KUAN (E. SUBURB), CHONG WEI, YELLOW RIVER[343]
OUR INN AT CHONG WEI[349]
OUR WOOL BOAT ON THE YELLOW RIVER[355]
HALTING FOR THE NIGHT ON THE YELLOW RIVER[357]
A FERRY ACROSS THE HUANG HO[359]
ALL THE "CASH" ISSUED FROM THE FIRST OF THE EMPERORS OF THE TS'ING OR MANCHU DYNASTY[361]
ON THE ROAD IN CHINA[369]
ON THE ROAD FROM PAO T'EO TO PEKIN[373]
BUDDHIST TEMPLE, OUTSIDE KUEI HUA CHENG, CHINA[377]
MONGOL ENCAMPMENT[382]
TEMPLE OUTSIDE SI-YANG HO[384]
BRIDAL CHAIR[387]
A GORGE WITH GREAT WALL IN DISTANCE[390]
THE GREAT WALL AT CHA-TAO[395]
BUDDHIST ARCHWAY BY NAN KOU[399]
CLOSE TO THE CELESTIAL CAPITAL[403]
A PORTION OF THE WALLS OF THE CAPITAL[407]
STREET WHEREIN IS THE ENTRANCE TO THE BRITISH LEGATION[409]
PEKIN[413]
LASSOO AND ESAU[420]