In conversation of this kind the night passed tranquilly. Our travellers did not care to sleep. When day began to break they commenced to recognize undoubted traces of the presence of man. They had travelled for days together without having seen either human beings or any indication of their presence. Here it was quite different. They often found plantations of maize, sugar-cane, etc., and fruit trees, such as cocoanuts, pisangs, doerians, etc., etc., planted along the borders of the primitive forest. Dwellings were observed at various distances and they felt gladdened to see human beings engaged in their various occupations. But the same peculiarity was here observed that had struck them [[158]]at kotta Towanan and kotta Baroe. Each house in the upper regions was surrounded by heavy palisades and was thus transformed into a kind of fortress. With very little vigilance on the part of the inhabitants, it would be impossible for any foe to enter the enclosure, while only hunger or cowardice could compel the defenders to surrender such a stronghold. This is the result of the terrible passion for collecting human skulls. Everybody defends himself against possible massacre, and only finds security behind strong walls and barricades.
The altered aspect of the country considerably increased the interest of our travellers. In a single night they had arrived as it were at quite a new world. Their first thought was to utilize their opportunity by augmenting their stock of provisions or at least by effecting a change in their fare. They therefore stopped near a garden, presented the watchman with some tobacco, and in return were allowed to gather as many roots and vegetables and as much maize as they liked. They had also some cocoanuts and other fruit given to them. The watchman further told them that a band of Poenans had been in the neighborhood during the last few days and advised them to be cautious. Again the old warning, “Look out for your head.”
After taking in sufficient provisions our fugitives resumed their journey, and by noon they had reached the mouth of soengei Koeatan, the principal river on this side of the Kapoeas. This soengei is navigable for some days for canoes of medium size. It originates in a marshy tract of land having communication with the Doesson by the soengei Lemo.
Johannes proposed to pursue their journey along the Koeatan [[159]]as the Doesson continues navigable much longer than the Kapoeas; and they would thus sooner reach the central mountains, across which their course lay. The other three Europeans concurred in his proposal; but Dalim and the Dayaks strongly opposed it. The way was certainly easier, but they, as inhabitants of the Kapoeas regions, would land among their bitterest enemies, from whom they could not possibly hide themselves or escape, and who would show them no mercy or compassion. A journey in that direction was like a sentence of death to them. While they were still deliberating a rangkan impelled by twenty oars was observed in the rear of the travellers. The appearance of this vessel, coming around a sharp corner, was so sudden that the oarsmen in the canoe became paralyzed with terror.
“Poenans! Poenans!” they cried, taking their mandauws.
The Europeans seized their guns and a heavy rifle fire would have soon welcomed the visitors if Dalim had not stopped them, crying out, “Halt, don’t fire!”
A Poenan in full war costume, but quite unarmed, was standing on the bow of the rangkan, nodding and waving his arms about like a maniac.
When the vessels were a little nearer to each other, the travellers recognized the head-hunter. It was Harimaoung Boekit—the Poenan whose life had been spared by Wienersdorf at Lake Ampang. He was now returning to his tribe, but having reason to believe that his new friends were in some peril he had come to aid them. Thus it was that on approaching our travellers, he and his companions had laid aside their weapons, in token of friendship. [[160]]