WILLIAM DAVIS.
Technical Institute,
Hawick, 1920.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
|---|---|
| PREFACE | [v] |
| CHAPTER I | |
| DEVELOPMENT OF THE KNITTED FABRIC | [1]-8 |
| Peculiarities of Knitted Structure-Knitting Trade Definitions-Hand Knitting and Crochet | |
| CHAPTER II | |
| KNITTING AND WEAVING COMPARED | [9]-15 |
| Hand Knitting-The Knitting Process-The Cut-up Trade-The Full-fashioned Trade-The Seamless Branch | |
| CHAPTER III | |
| LATCH NEEDLE KNITTING | [16]-26 |
| Loop Formation with the Latch Needle-The Flat Knitter-Working of Cam Boxes to Give the Various Stitches-Patterns Produced | |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| TYPES OF KNITTING YARNS | [27]-36 |
| Lamb's Wool, Shetland, Natural, and Fingering Knitting Yarns-Worsted Spun Underwear Yarns | |
| CHAPTER V | |
| SYSTEMS OF NUMBERING HOSIERY YARNS | [37]-45 |
| Yarn Testing for Counts-Conversion from one Count into Another-Formulae for Calculating the Weight of Knitted Fabric, allowing for varying Take-up of Yarn-Calculations for Width, Counts, and Courses per inch | |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| CALCULATIONS FOR FOLDED KNITTING YARNS | [46]-56 |
| Explanation of Formulae-Estimations for Plated Goods and Weight Percentages for Mixed Garments | |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| BEARDED NEEDLE KNITTING | [57]-66 |
| Stages of Loop Formation with the Bearded Needle-Hand-frame Knitting Process, and the System of Knitting on Cotton's Patent Machine | |
| CHAPTER VIII | |
| SETTING OF KNITTED FABRICS | [67]-75 |
| Texture Variation on individual Frames-Variation of Yarn and Effect of Yarn Quality-Variation in the Length of Loop-Comparison of Courses and Wales | |
| CHAPTER IX | |
| VARIOUS KNITTING YARNS | [76]-89 |
| Cotton, Mercerised, and Various Silk Yarns-Silk-and-Wool and Cotton-and-Wool Mixture Yarns-Cashmere, Angora Rabbit, Camel Hair, and Alpaca-Nettle Fibre Yarn | |
| CHAPTER X | |
| WINDING OF HOSIERY YARNS | [90]-98 |
| Description of a Modern Winding Machine, Bobbin Building and the Differential-Damping and Methods Adopted | |
| CHAPTER XI | |
| CIRCULAR KNITTING | [99]-106 |
| Stocking Knitting Machine-Making of a Ribbed Sock-Full-fashioned Hosiery-English and French Foot | |
| CHAPTER XII | |
| COLOUR IN KNITTED GOODS | [107]-116 |
| Naturals, Horizontal Stripes, Vertical Stripes, Tuck Work on Flat and Circular Frames-Check Designs and Spot Effects | |
| CHAPTER XIII | |
| COLOUR HARMONY AND CONTRAST | [117]-126 |
| Attributes of Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colours-Application of Colour Principles to the Hosiery Trade | |
| CHAPTER XIV | |
| DEFECTS IN FABRICS | [127]-134 |
| Sinker and Needle Lines-Slurgalling and Pinholes-Stitches of Variable Symmetry | |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| FIG. | PAGE | |
|---|---|---|
| 1. | RIGHT SIDE KNITTED FABRIC | [3] |
| 2. | WRONG SIDE KNITTED FABRIC | [3] |
| 3. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF THE PLAIN KNITTED LOOP | [4] |
| 4 & 5. | KNITTING ON THE HAND PINS | [7] |
| 6 & 7. | WORKING OF CROCHET STITCH | [7] |
| 8. | THE LATCH NEEDLE | [17] |
| 9. | STITCH FORMATION ON THE LATCH NEEDLE | [17] |
| 10. | THE DOUBLE-HEADED NEEDLE | [17] |
| 11. | SIDE ELEVATION OF THE LAMB FLAT KNITTER | [20] |
| 12. | VIEW OF THE CAM BOX | [20] |
| 13, 14, 15. | DIFFERENT NEEDLE ARRANGEMENTS ON THE FLAT KNITTER | [20] |
| 16. | TWO-AND-TWO RIB FABRIC | [20] |
| 17-20. | ARRANGEMENT OF CAMS TO PRODUCE RIB, CIRCULAR, AND CARDIGAN STITCHES | [24] |
| 21. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF TWO-PLY WHEELING KNITTING YARN | [28] |
| 22. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF THREE-PLY WOOLLEN SPUN KNITTING THREAD | [29] |
| 23. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF HOSIERY LAMB'S WOOL YARN | [30] |
| 24. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF TWO-PLY NATURAL SHETLAND YARN | [31] |
| 25. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF THREE-PLY FINGERING YARN FOR HOSIERY | [33] |
| 26 & 27. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF TWO-PLY UNDERWEAR YARNS, CONTINENTAL SPUN | [33]-[35] |
| 28. | MICRO-PHOTOGRAPH OF THREE-PLY UNDERWEAR YARN | [35] |
| 29. | THE BEARDED NEEDLE | [58] |
| 30-33. | LOOP FORMATION ON THE BEARDED NEEDLE | [58] |
| 34. | STITCH FORMING PARTS OF THE OLD HAND-FRAME | [63] |
| 35. | STITCH FORMING PARTS OF THE COTTON'S PATENT FRAME | [63] |
| 36. | SHOWING EFFECT OF INCREASE OF YARN DIAMETER IN THE BEARDED NEEDLE FRAME | [69] |
| 37. | SHOWING EFFECT OF INCREASE IN LOOP LENGTH IN THE BEARDED NEEDLE FRAME | [71] |
| 38. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF SINGLE COTTON HOSIERY YARN | [77] |
| 39. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF SINGLE LOOSE TWISTED COTTON YARN FOR BACKING | [77] |
| 40. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF MERCERISED COTTON KNITTING YARN | [79] |
| 41. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF ARTIFICIAL SILK KNITTING YARN | [79] |
| 42. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF TWO-FOLD SPUN SILK KNITTING YARN | [81] |
| 43. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF TWO-FOLD SPUN SILK KNITTING YARN (GASSED) | [81] |
| 44. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF TWO-FOLD SILK AND WOOL KNITTING YARN | [82] |
| 45. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF SILK AND COTTON-AND-WOOL MERINO FOLDED YARN | [84] |
| 46. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF TWO-PLY PURE CASHMERE KNITTING YARN | [85] |
| 47. | PHOTO-MICROGRAPH OF YARN SPUN FROM THE NETTLE FIBRE | [88] |
| 48. | THE MODERN HOSIERY WINDING MACHINE | [93] |
| 49. | THREAD CLEARING APPARATUS | [93] |
| 50. | THE GRISWOLD CIRCULAR STOCKING KNITTER | [101] |
| 51. | ACTION OF THE CAMS IN STITCH FORMATION | [101] |
| 52. | STANDARD RIBBED SOCK | [101] |
| 53. | ONE-AND-ONE TUCK PRESSER FOR FLAT FRAMES | [112] |
| 54. | TWO-AND-ONE TUCK PRESSER FOR FLAT FRAMES | [112] |
| 55. | ONE-AND-ONE TUCK PRESSER FOR CIRCULAR BEARDED NEEDLE FRAME | [113] |
| 56. | TWO-AND-ONE TUCK PRESSER FOR CIRCULAR BEARDED NEEDLE FRAME | [113] |
| 57. | ENLARGEMENT OF THE ONE-AND-ONE TUCK FABRIC | [114] |
| 58. | ENLARGEMENT OF A SINKER LINE IN KNITTED FABRIC | [128] |
| 59. | ENLARGEMENT OF "JACOB'S LADDER" IN KNITTED FABRIC | [130] |
| 60. | ENLARGEMENT OF SLUR GALLING IN KNITTED FABRIC | [131] |
| 61. | ENLARGEMENT OF "PINHOLES" IN KNITTED FABRIC | [132] |
HOSIERY MANUFACTURE
CHAPTER I
Development of the Knitted Fabric
There has been in recent years an extraordinary development in the scope and application of the knitted fabric which may be traced to a variety of causes. The chief explanation of this growth is to be found in the structure of the knitted fabric itself, the qualities of which have made it pre-eminently suitable for special departments of textiles. In its most elementary form the knitted texture is composed of a series of loops hung in rows one upon the other and constructed from the curvings of a single thread which runs continuously through the fabric. One set of loops is formed on the preceding row and any particular stitch is dependent for its support on neighbouring stitches above, below, and on either side of it; if the thread becomes severed at any point the loops lose contact all round and a considerable opening is incurred. This is its chief defect, but also its outstanding advantage as a texture; it is a defect to have the structure destroyed with the severance of the single ground thread, but it is the mutual interdependence of loops which accounts for its valuable stretch and elasticity. By virtue of this elasticity it becomes eminently suitable for articles of underclothing which have to be worn in close proximity to the cuticle; the fabric is enabled to yield to the slightest movement of any part and thus prevents the wearer becoming uncomfortably conscious of the garment. An inherent yielding quality of the loops causes the article to stretch and adapt itself to minor irregularities of size and shape; if a garment is not exactly to dimensions, it contracts to a smaller or expands to a larger form. This property of stretch must not be unduly taken advantage of to cover up indifferent systems of manufacturing, but within certain limits the property is of great value for certain discrepancies. The knitted fabric is essentially a weft fabric, the thread being inserted crosswise into the texture after the manner of filling so that the entire structure presents a horizontal appearance which is most evident with ground-coloured stripes when the different colours show themselves crosswise. This proves a serious limitation to the scope of the plain knitted texture, for the clothing trades have small use for horizontal effects as compared with vertical coloured stripes. The knitted structure is quite different in property to woven cloth where one has two series of separate threads, one being termed the warp and running longitudinally in the fabric, whilst the other series is named the weft and is intersected with the warp in the process of weaving. The warp threads are pre-arranged to the correct length and in order of pattern on the warp beam whilst the threads of weft are inserted consecutively during the operation of weaving in the loom. This mode of intersecting separate series of yarns at right angles to each other causes the threads to exert a much firmer grip on each other and the resulting fabric is remarkable for its strength and rigidity. It is firm and durable in structure, and possessing comparatively little stretch, it does not yield to the ordinary strains to which it is subjected. It is pre-eminently the fabric to be used for garments of outer wear which have to stand the rough service of every-day life, where a combination of friction, bending and abrasion subject the fabric to a severe test of endurance. In the case of a knitted texture there is a right and a wrong side, or face and back, the face comprising the straight portions of the loops whilst on the back the curved loop portions predominate. Fig. 1 gives a view of a plain knitted fabric showing the right side or the face of the texture where the loops may be distinguished by a characteristic V-shape, these Vs fitting into each other in a vertical direction. This side of the fabric is always worn outermost, as it presents the most even surface whilst it is also the most perfect as all imperfections such as knots, etc., are drawn on to the back of the cloth. Fig. 2 shows the same fabric on the wrong side where it will be noted that the chief feature is a series of interlocking semi-circles which have a distinctly crosswise determination given to them. The appearance on the back is decidedly raw and uninteresting, the straightened V-shaped portions of the loops presenting a much more attractive aspect. On the other hand, most rotary frames work their fabrics with the back in full view of the worker, and in case of analysis it is the wrong side of the fabric which will yield the most definite results to the analyst, for by examination of the curved loops one can discern more easily the character of the pattern and the nature of the ornamentation.