If Fig. 45 be examined it will be noticed that it is in the form of two-ply, one thread being composed of pure silk as shown by its density and fineness, whilst the thicker yarn is merino, that is, cotton and wool mixed in the fibre. The presence of the cotton and the wool may both be detected by an examination of the straggling fibres, the wool curving and bending in its usual characteristic manner, whilst the cotton fibres show their twisted convolutions and their furtive breaks into angles. The usual kinds of merino yarns used for underwear are folded two-ply, with a slack twist which seldom exceeds more than a few turns per inch. In spinning such yarns it is sought to throw the wool to the thread surface as far as possible so as to increase the comfort to the wearer and give improved handle.
Fig. 46
SHOWING GRACEFUL CURLING PROPENSITIES OF A CASHMERE THREAD
Cashmere.—The general use of this term includes open spun worsted yarns, used in underwear, but the original signification is the product of the Cashmere goat which inhabits the Himalayas. This material is natural coloured, the softest kinds are of a sandy fawn shade and are largely employed in the knitting industry for scarves, gloves and vests. In respect of soft, delicate handle real cashmere is without an equal amongst textile materials, and this property alone makes it eminently suitable for these branches in particular.
Angora Rabbit Fur.—The fur of the rabbit has recently come into prominence for the knitting industry and many new uses have been found for these materials. The product of the Angora rabbit reared in large numbers in France has been extensively used for knitted articles, notably gloves and vests, where its surpassing qualities of delicacy of handle have been greatly appreciated. One disadvantage of this fur is that it readily contracts when steeped in water, where the least scouring makes it almost vanish out of view. It is extremely difficult to spin into yarns which will bear the strains of knitting and of ordinary wear, the length of the fibres is rather variable and large portions of the rabbit coat consist of fibre of the most flimsy description, being perceptibly swayed by the ordinary air currents of a room. It will thus be seen that in employing this material the kind of article to which it has to be applied must be kept carefully in mind, and every effort should be made to utilize it where it will be protected from contact with excessive moisture. The article selected should not be one which encounters much friction during its period of wear because one of the troubles is that the loose floating fibres easily separate themselves from the parent fabric. This sort of material taken from the common rabbit is often vended in the shops in balls of thick, loose spun thread which can rapidly be made into plain stitch gloves, not very shapely but certainly having qualities of novelty and comfort.
Camel Hair.—As the name indicates this material is secured from the camel, large tufts of good quality fibre growing on its chest and of a predominantly sandy tint, natural in hue. This is used in its life shade for a large number of varieties of knitted articles, perhaps its best-known use in knitting is in connection with the scarf trade, whilst it is also found in the knitted glove and cap industry.
Alpaca.—This is the product of the goat of the same name which inhabits the Andes of South America and is very useful because of the large variety of colours in which it grows on the fleece. These are sorted out into tones of approximately the same depth and used for numerous other articles in the knitting industry. The material in itself often appears rather hard and cold for knitted goods, but the handle can be improved by steaming which has the effect of permanently softening the cell walls of the fibre. Very successful effects are produced by folding a thread of one shade with a single thread of another, and when these are brushed in finishing they give melanged effects which are most attractive and pleasing.
Peculiarities of Goat and Camel Hairs.—Materials such as camel hair, alpaca and cashmere all have certain properties in common. They have each two growths of material, one on the surface consisting of long, strong beard hairs which are rough in the extreme and quite unsuitable for manufacturing purposes. Under this overgrowth and protected by it is the variety which as a rule is much softer to touch and shorter in staple; the long hairs are a great nuisance to the manufacturer, but are in reality indispensable as they afford much needed protection to the soft undergrowth during the turbulent life of the goat. If they are not too coarse they may be employed as the dark colouring element in natural hosiery yarns, the browns and greys of alpaca being most useful in this regard. These materials belong to the most dirty class of materials used in knitting yarns, and it is very necessary that they should be thoroughly cleaned before use. Owing to the fact, however, that they are not dyed but generally employed as they stand, they may not be scoured so thoroughly as ordinary wool. The deadly germs of anthrax are often present on these materials, this disease being frequently transmitted to a worker handling the fleeces where clots of blood produced by careless clipping are a grave source of danger. There is also further evidence of uncleanness in the specks of dandruff-like matter which are often found sticking on the fibres of the yarn.
Like other branches of the textile industry, hosiery manufacture has been the subject of numerous attempts at introducing new and novel fibres heralded on to the market with much blowing of trumpets and exaggerated prospectuses. This industry can absorb a greater variety of yarns, different classes of materials than almost any other branch of textiles. What has often been suggested as a sound commercial proposition is that yarn made from the nettle plant should be more extensively utilized. A thread made from fibre extracted from the stem of the ordinary stinging variety is given in Fig. 47 which gives a thread quite suitable for many classes of woven fabrics. The material, however, is not of suitably agreeable handle for knitted goods and would only be employed for this purpose in times of dire scarcity.
