Travels in Western Africa, in the years 1818, 19, 20, and 21, from the river Gambia, through Woolli, Bondoo, Galam, Kasson, Kaarta, and Foolidoo, to the river Niger

by Major William Gray; Staff Surgeon Dochard

As nothing but the common routine of a formal visit of ceremony could, consistent with their customs, take place at the first interview, even had the king been compos mentis, we were obliged to take our leave without anything more having been said as to the terms on which we might expect his protection. Modiba, however, told us he would take care that no rum should be drank by Mansa[9] in the morning, previous to our seeing him, and requested we would shew him the present we intended to give; which we promised to do, when it could be prepared.

During the night, one of the natives made an attempt to steal something from one of the tents, and would have succeeded, had not Sergeant Major Lee, observing the bale stirring, fired in the direction, but I believe without effect. This served, at least, to deter others from a similar attempt.

Having selected the present, consisting of amber, coral, bafts blue and white, silver, guns, &c., in all amounting to upwards of five hundred bars, thirty pounds sterling, and submitted them to the inspection of Modiba, who appeared to be pleased with them, we waited on the king on the morning of the 4th, and were shewn into the inner inclosure of the palace, which was, if any thing, more filthy than the rest of the town. Here we found him seated on a lion’s skin, to which were attached a number of grigris, under the shade of a miserable hovel in the shape of a balcony, outside the door of his bed-room, surrounded by four or five of his head men or ministers; and, notwithstanding Modiba’s promise to the contrary, the rum bottle had been in use, to what extent we cannot say, but he, on this occasion, favoured us with his conversation, asking several questions about our country, the Expedition, its object, &c.; all which we answered as briefly and explicitly as possible. When the present was laid before him, he condescended to smile at the amber, but on looking at the dollars and coral for some time, with an air of the greatest indifference, he said something to his own people, and told us that he would not accept of so trifling an offer from such great men, particularly as he had been told we had given more to the king of Katoba, whom he looked on as a very petty chief indeed. Modiba said much to induce him to take it, but to no effect. We therefore returned to the camp leaving him, great as was his avarice, paying more attention to the rum bottle than what had been going forward.

While we were talking to Modiba on the best means of satisfying Mansa, and at the same time those about him, the former made his appearance, coming from the town, attended by about fifty people singing and beating drums. He seated himself under a tree, at a short distance from our camp, and sent Modiba, who had gone to meet him, to let us know he came to pay his respects. When we went to him, he beckoned me to sit beside him, which I did in apparent good humour; after the usual salutations, he begged a piece of muslin to make a dress. This was complied with, when he said, he had brought a bullock for supper, but added that we did not shew ourselves inclined to think well of him, in giving him so poor a present. This, with a great deal more noisy irrelevant matter from himself and attendants, took up nearly half an hour, much to our annoyance. He ended, however, by telling us that he had left the settling of the affair to Modiba, and returned to the town.

In order that more time should not be lost here, we made an addition to the former present of forty-five bars, coral and dollars, and gave it to Modiba to present, as all we would or could give him. He was then drunk, and not to be seen.

In a short hour after this, Mansafarra, the king’s eldest son, came galloping from the town into our camp, attended by five or six people, armed with guns and spears, and, apparently in a great rage, said that he was offended at our not paying him our respects in person, and, although we might think little of him, he was, nevertheless, of as much consequence in the country as his father. We endeavoured to pacify him by appearing in good humour, and was going to give him our hands, when he rode off, in as great a hurry as he came, having first made one of his men throw down a pile of our arms, which was standing near them. He was not contented with this indifference on our part, and shortly returned on foot, attended as before. The first person he met was Private Robinson, lying on the ground. To him he gave two or three kicks, and would have fired his musket at him, had he not been prevented by some of his own people. On this occasion, we, with much difficulty, kept our temper, but as the fellow was beastly drunk, and we were aware of the serious consequences that might arise from any violence offered to one of the royal family, we overlooked the insult, and merely directed the men to stand to their arms, and take no notice of him. He did not like the appearance things bore at that moment, and went off as before.

The people of the town, seeing us pay such little attention to the insult offered by their prince, no doubt thought they might follow his example with impunity, and therefore endeavoured to run away with every thing they could lay their hands on. This was too much. We could bear it no longer, and ordered the men to load and fall in, and, as it was nearly sunset, we had the whole of the baggage removed to some distance from the tree we had been sitting under, and placed triple sentinels. While the men were employed at this, the natives stole two horses, one ass, a bullock, and a goat. The horses, ass, and goat were recovered, but the bullock we never heard of.

A strict watch during the night prevented the possibility of any attempt at theft, and on the morning of the 5th, Modiba came at an early hour, to say that the king was not satisfied at the addition made to the present, and, unless we gave him more, he would send his people to help themselves. Entreaties were to be borne with, but threats, and of this nature too, required decisive steps. We consequently directed Modeba to let the king know he might come as soon as he pleased, when we should be ready to give him the reception his appearance might merit. The bugles then sounded to arms; the animals were collected; and the men formed a hollow square round them and the baggage.

Modiba, who was more than astonished at our answer and preparations, went off without saying a word; but returned in a few minutes, to request we would give him ten dollars for himself, in part payment of two horses we had purchased from him the day before, and for which he had agreed to take an order on the Commissariat Officer at St. Mary’s, River Gambia. This we complied with, and are satisfied he gave them to Mansa. We however did not let him know, that we thought so. At length we were informed that guides would be provided for us, and we might proceed in the morning. In the evening, Mansa sent us a bullock, in place of the one which was stolen.

The guides joined us in the morning of the 6th, and all things being ready, we commenced moving from Madina, that nest of thieves; but the front division had scarcely left the ground, when an immense mob collected, in order to plunder if possible. Messrs. Dochard and Partarrieau remained with the camel division, which was to bring up the rear, and had much difficulty in keeping the natives from actually forcing some things out of our men’s hands. A small medicine-chest was purloined by one of them, who had run some distance with it before it was missed. Private Ferrier overtook and knocked the fellow down, and would have shot some others who came to his assistance, had not Mr. Dochard prevented him by laying hold of his firelock. Such a barefaced and determined set of thieves we never met.