Travels in Western Africa, in the years 1818, 19, 20, and 21, from the river Gambia, through Woolli, Bondoo, Galam, Kasson, Kaarta, and Foolidoo, to the river Niger

by Major William Gray; Staff Surgeon Dochard

Our animals too, particularly those not bred in the country, died rapidly. We had lost since our arrival three camels, six horses, and eight asses.

We found much difficulty in procuring an adequate supply of provisions during the rains, in consequence of the war between Senegal and Foota and of some misunderstanding between Almamy Bondoo and the officer commanding at Baquelle; and, to add to this difficulty, the Tonca of Tuabo, at the instigation of Almamy Bondoo, put a stop to the supplies from some of his towns, and seized a boat which had been employed purchasing corn from the people of the towns on the river side. As a pretext for such conduct he said that “the whites, his tributaries,” had not made him sufficiently frequent and handsome presents, or, in other words, had not fully satisfied his avarice.

This man who was very old and much debilitated in mental as well as bodily faculties, was controlled in all his actions by a relation of his own, who was one of those that first caused dissentions in the country, and sanctioned Almamy’s views on it; which, in this instance, he was most effectually forwarding, by partly cutting off our supplies. In fact every means were resorted to by Almamy and his associates to oppose not only our further progress, but the French works at Baquelle, where he was aware the existence of such an establishment would materially weaken his authority, and eventually place that country in its former respectability. He had another reason for not favouring a permanent factory (at least on the principles of that carrying on there) in Galam, namely, the facility it would afford his enemies, the Kaartans, and the inhabitants of the upper state, of procuring supplies of arms and ammunition: in fact, had he been able to do as he wished, not an article of European merchandize would have passed Bondoo, nor an article of the production of any of his neighbours have found its way to a European market.

The kingdom of Galam[26] extends from within a few miles of the cataract of Feloo in the east (where it is bounded by Kasson), about forty miles west of the Fa-lemme to the N. Geercer creek, which divides it from Foota; on the south it is bounded by Bondoo; and is at present composed of a string of towns on the south or left bank of the Senegal. It formerly extended several miles in the direction of Bondoo, Foota, and Bambouk, but has of late years diminished to its present insignificant state, in consequence of dissentions amongst the different branches of the royal family, and the encroachments of their enemies. It is divided into upper and lower; the river Fa-lemmê[27] is the line of separation. The upper is governed by the Tonca of Maghana; and the lower by the Tonca of Tuabo; those towns being the capitals to their respective divisions, and neither acknowledging the supremacy of the other, although formerly, and of right, it belonged to the former, near which are the ruins of Fort St. Joseph. The succession to the crown is not hereditary; it descends in a regular line to the eldest branch of a numerous family called Batcheries, who are the undisputed chiefs of the country.

The face of the country is very mountainous, and much covered with wood, a large proportion of which is well adapted to common uses. Its vegetable productions are the same as those of Bondoo, from which country it differs in nothing save its proximity to the river, and its partial inundation during the season of the rains.

The commerce, like that of Bondoo, consists in the exchange of the productions of the country for European goods. Those are again exchanged with their neighbours of Kaarta, Kasson, and Bambouk, for gold, ivory, and slaves, who are in their turn sold to the French vessels from Senegal.

Their manufactures, although nearly the same as those of their neighbours, have the advantage of them in some respects, particularly that of weaving and dyeing the cotton; and whether it be that the humidity of the soil on the banks of the river is more congenial to the growth of the cotton and indigo, or that the manufacturers are more expert, I cannot say; but certain it is, that they can dye a much finer blue than I have before seen in Africa. The process is precisely the same as that mentioned by Mr. Park to be followed by the inhabitants of Iindey near the Gambia.

Their dress and manner of living is also nearly the same as those of the people of Bondoo. The former is made rather larger in the same shape, and the latter is more frequently seasoned with fish, in which the river abounds. They are proverbially fond of animal food, which, although arrived at a higher degree of keeping than would please the palates of our most decided epicures, would not be rejected by them. I have seen a dead hippopotamus floating down the river, and poisoning the air with its putrid vapours, drawn to shore by them, and such was their love of meat, that they nearly came to blows about its division.

From a state of Paganism these people are progressively embracing the Mahometan faith; but many still despise its tenets, disregard its ceremonies, and indulge freely in the use of strong liquors. Some towns are wholly inhabited by priests, who are by far the most wealthy and respectable members of the community. There is a mosque in every town, and the times of worship are strictly attended to by the priests and their converts.

From the long existence of a state of commercial intercourse (which has been but partially interrupted by Foota) between these people and the inhabitants of Senegal, arises a degree of respect which is invariably paid by them to all Europeans who visit their country; and although the exorbitant demands of the chiefs for presents (now called customs) sometimes cause altercations and temporary quarrels between them, they must nevertheless be considered as more friendly to Europeans than any other of the surrounding tribes. Whether this proceeds (as some pretend to think) from their being more in the power of the vessels which come up to trade at their towns (all which are situate on the river side, and exposed to much damage from the smallest piece of cannon, in case of misconduct), or from a mild and peaceable disposition, I will not venture to decide positively; but I think I should not labour under a very great error, in saying that the many advantages they derive yearly from such an intercourse (and of which they acknowledge themselves sensible), leads them, like the mass of mankind, to consult their own interest; and to forward which they must in some cases submit to the desires (at all times not very honourable) of those who trade with them. They profess an attachment to and claim relationship with the inhabitants of Senegal, and if hospitality can in any degree prove the sincerity of the former, it must be allowed they have such attachment, as the house of a Serrawolli, and every thing it contains, is at all times at the service of the poorest inhabitant of that place.