I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world— He is either mad or a fool— I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I can make a writer— He is the most rating, ranting fellow— I wish you could hear him——I begin to think him mad— His name is Smith— He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio—— I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy— repeating a prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the Dutchmen in Pennsylvania— He & his wife came amongst them one evening & stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each one to the tavern— He began by stating his religious tenets, & at length after every body & thing was created, he says the under Gods (of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the skum & stir'd it up, & those fellows came out—or rather Hell boil'd over & they were form'd of the skum——I believe he has been studying all his life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a strange rate— His language is very ungrammatical—but the Jacksons are all in raptures with him—They cannot understand his language (nor indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such words without any connection—no matter if I do but bring them in some how— We are over the 6th mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- This mtn is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad luck— There is a great many travellers here-the house is full—— The young Dr told me he was married, to day— I like him rather better than I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting— Susan chose to ride down the hill, & I outwalk'd Mrs W, so we were quite alone till we reach'd this house- Mrs Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got here— I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can write no more to night.
Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd to pass the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I had a long crying spell— This morning I feel almost sick— Mr W-is so much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last— This strange man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about them- He has been repeating one of Mr Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- & one of Mr Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be nobody—— It rain'd very fast last night- & is more muddy than ever—
Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-
Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd— I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains— We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last Mtn this afternoon- It is 5 miles over—12 miles we have come to day— There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the Mtn- One house on the top of it— We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an unpossibility (Mr Newington) I am more out of patience than ever— We came on to the 4th tavern after we got down,- because we thought those behind us, would stop sooner- Mrs Jackson & her tribe were with us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all scream out- Mrs Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to talk us to death— He pass'd us on the road, singing & screaming, advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch— We are now 41 miles from Pitt——
Novbr 21st Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-
We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles— Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the Dr & his father-Mr & Mrs W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again— The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we were the night before, was very welcome— The landlord has been a waggoner-"Only look at that now"-A clever waggoner! I cannot but think his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his waggon—— After riding a little way, we overtook Mr Smith again, & found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by calling him a damn'd Yankee-before they ended Mr S- whipt 3 of them- I was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it— Mr S- lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will listen to him— As for the Dr, he is "nothing but a pester"- Susan & I took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife soon-We pass'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but Mr W- did not stop, so the Dr follow'd on & left his father, & waited at another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us to follow- The Dr came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his company— We have escap'd hearing Mr S- talk, which I would not be oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour-
Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably rains every day—