Bicycling for Ladies / The Common Sense of Bicycling; with Hints as to the Art of Wheeling—Advice to Beginners—Dress—Care of the Bicycle—Mechanics—Training—Exercise, etc., etc.

by Maria E. Ward

Intelligent practice, however, should result in scientific attainment. The saddle should be adjusted in relation to the pedals for the carrying of the cranks past the dead centre. The angle of the saddle should be studied, and the adjustment permit of its use as a fulcrum in hill-work, while admitting of balance-work on a level and of comfort and ease in coasting. It should support the weight when the feet are on the forks, not merely permit of balancing.

In studying this adjustment, weight, length of limb, strength, and the work to be done should all be taken into consideration. The rule that what is lost in speed is gained in power should comfort the hill climber when, half-way up a grade, the bicycle gradually loses speed, and seems to be stopping, in spite of all efforts to the contrary.

In mounting, the machine is started by the placing of the weight on the pedal, and in hill-climbing the weight should be used to force the pedal down and around. The bringing of the pedal into position where the weight will take effect is the true secret of success. Follow this by making the weight carry as far as possible, prolonging its usefulness by pushing the pedal back past the lowest dead centre, and following and lifting it. But it is useless to prolong the work if the commencement of the stroke is not executed in an effective manner.

The up-coming pedal must either be pulled up, or have all weight removed to permit the power to be fully effective on the down pedal. What is the point where power applied will begin to tell? If the upper dead centre is left to be overcome by the downward stroke of the foot on the pedal, the foot on the ascending pedal is doing no work, only kept from doing harm, held in a cramped position.

After carrying the crank past the lower dead centre, the weight is removed and the angle of the foot changed from pointing the toe down to holding the toe up and dropping the heel. As the foot-rest will follow the sole of the foot, it is a simple matter to change the pressure from pushing and pulling up to pressing and shoving over. Before the crank has arrived at the top of the circle, say at sixty degrees, the heel should be lowered, and the attention directed to pushing the cranks over and past the dead centre. As the top of the circle is reached, the foot levels, and prepares to point the toe to make an effective downward thrust. Rise from the saddle a little at this point, to make the weight more effective, and prepare to carry the pedal back as far as possible. This method leaves very little time for the foot to change its angle. From the toe pointing downward to the toe held up ready to push, the change from pull to push is abrupt, and hill-work depends on correct ankle-motion more than anything else. The ankle-motion may be corrected by swaying, the hands meanwhile being held lightly on the handle-bars ready for emergencies, but not used for the work of climbing.

HILL-CLIMBING—PUSHING CRANK OVER.

The breathless condition induced by extra work may be remedied; for the upper chest is forced to expand, while, if the arms are held rigid, a plentiful supply of air for the lungs is not insured. (See Chapter on Exercises). Free combustion is needed for the extra power exerted.

The bicycle and its load are lifted, and a given weight requires a given power to lift it. That power must be supplied by the stored force of the human body, and must be utilized to the best advantage if the work is to be prolonged. Hill-work is not impossible of achievement; but it requires intelligent work unless one applies mechanical laws intuitively. Easy hill-work is delightful; it is work, hard work, but work done without strain. Nothing, on the other hand, can be more injurious than forced hill-climbing; the strain on heart and lungs is severe, particularly for one wearing a tight belt, or any constrictive clothing about the waist.

Because a hill looks rough and the surface difficult, it does not at all follow that it will be bad wheeling. If the tires are not too full, inequalities of surface are an assistance, helping to block the wheels, and preventing them from slipping back, while the soft tire takes up the stones and bumps, holding on by them. Always look well at your hill on approaching it; study its inclination, determine its grade, and the nature of its surface, and quickly decide how best to attack it.